peteski

While I also prefer reading paper versions, I have to admit that when the power goes out, Kindles, iPads or smart phones also have batteries (and back-lit screens), so you can keep on reading your electronic magazine (until the batteries run down). But nothing beats candlelight, except maybe for a kerosene lantern.

. . . and hopefully have a backup too.

Ah, that is where you go wrong. Don't hit the "link" symbol then type in the URL (http://...). The URL (the http://. . .) info needs to go directly into the text editing window to show up as a video. But I don't know if it will work correctly if you type it in manually one-letter-at-a-time (instead of copy/pasting the entire URL as a single chunk of text).

Praise and all those comments are well deserved. When I want to show relative size of a model, I photograph it using a coin as a size reference. In this case if a quarter was propped against one of the legs, would show how small that model was (or that you photographed the 1:1 item using a giant coin). This is what I mean.

It came out very nice! Helmut, you're not alone, I have some 20-year-old projects too. Some even older. But none of them are for paying clients, but for friends or relatives. I have that kit and IIRC, the lower body chrome are metal stickers that are included with the kit.

Ok, now we know - thanks for trying.

My Point was that the acrylic powder is *NOT* baking soda. I'm trying to come up with an alternative to baking soda for Kurt. I understand how the 2-part acrylic system works, but that is not what Kurt needs. As I understand, Kurt sprinkles baking soda on some area he wants to fill or smooth, then he drops CA glue onto the powder. Or the other way around. When the baking soda and CA glue combine, that caused a reaction, and the CA hardens instantly. Actually I suppose he could use the acrylic system in a similar way. Pour the acrylic powder into the area to be filled, then using eyedropper apply the liquid part of the acrylic system. Then wait for it to harden, and sand it. But the acrylic system does not harden as fast at the CA glue does. I see what you mean about the CA glue not fully getting soaked into the acrylic powder. That stuff is very fine-grained. But maybe use extra thin CA glue, and apply the acrylic powder in thin layers? Or apply thick CA clue first, then sprinkle the acrylic powder over it?

Ah yes, JC Penny. Now I remember seeing that photo. I got confused with Craftsman. Mine is Weller (I believe it was the original manufacturer, and JC Panny is just rebadged Weller). Mine was also purchased in the '80s. But we digress. . . I do like the paper cut method. I have to try it next time I'm making cuts in plastic.

Have you tried to see if the powder dissolves in water, like baking powder does? I have feeling that it will not. The powder is one of the parts of the acrylic nail system. The other part is the hardener. The hardener is not just a CA glue. You can even smell the difference. When it combines with the powder, it creates a plastic-like substance. Originally this acrylic system was used by dentists for temporary fillings and crowns. Trust me, it is not just baking soda.

Wow, that is clever. Gives it a new meaning to a "paper cut"! Just like rubbing 2 pieces of dry wood hard enough can ignite them, heat generated from the friction of paper against plastic heats it enough to melt it. Nice! And I can't help commenting on your rotary tool. I think I have done that in the past. Instead of the ubiquitous Dremel tool most modelers use, you still have one of those Weller (or Craftsman) rotary tool. I think you and me are the only2 members of this forum that still have one of those. But mine is put away - I now use a Dremel too.

Too funny! That was a great movie!

Yes, but they are microscopic in size so water absorption should not be a problem. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_microsphere Or just Google "microbaloons" for some additional info. Then talcum powder could be used as filler. This discussion just gave me an idea that maybe the acrylic powder used with artificial fingernails might make excellent filler for CA glue. After all, CA is also a type of acrylic. Acrylic powder is available at beauty supply stores. Yes, it is more expensive than baking soda, but it would be much more stable. I'll have to try how it behaves when mixed with CA glue.

The fine-toothed Zona or X-acto razor saws (as pictured earlier in the thread) are made form hard steel. They are not just for plastic - the easily cut brass, copper and aluminum.

Thanks for describing the possible problem areas on this model Salih - it will help me when I get to build my model. It sure is a cute little car. Must be fun to drive the real one!

It came out beautiful! I also have that kit (unbuilt). Can you tell me what were the specific challenges? I also have a suggestion: This forum allows us to upload all our photos here for free. It would be nice if we tried to conserve the forum's space by reducing the size of the photos. The ones you uploaded are quite large. They are more than 3000 pixels across. I usually resize my the photos I upload here to 1024 pixels across. That still provides a sharp view of the model, but it takes up much less space on the forums storage.

Your model came out really nice. The wire spokes make it much more realistic. If some parts have no attachment to glue points, you can pin them together. Drill holes in both parts for a small diameter brass rod, then use CA glue to everything together.

Sometimes in online forums, topics take a slight off-topic turn. But it looks like that diversion is complete. Back to paint booths we go.

Baking soda powder Sodium Bicarbonate is a type of a salt. It is readily soluble with water. If used as CA filler and accelerator, it triggers very fast setting of CA glue (especially the thin variety). There doesn't seem to be much control over the reaction, and sometimes it bubbles up. That is one of the reasons I don't use for what Kurt uses it for. The other problem, which might not show up right away is more messy: If some of the grains don't absorb the CA glue, if humidity gets to them they will dissolve, oozing out as liquid from the glue joint. The likely does not happen in bone-dry climates, but where I live we have muggy summers, so I would never consider using it as CA accelerator/filler. If one looks on the Internet, one will find some examples of such oozing glue joints. With plenty of CA accelerates out there, and fillers (like talcum powder, plastic shavings, microbaloons, or other similar dry fillers), IMO there really isn't a need for using Baking Soda.

I would never believed that this was a TKM slush-cast model. You Sir, are a miracle worker! Is TKM even still around? Probably about 25 years ago I bought a '79-'85 Caddy Eldorado (since I own a 1:1 car), but after receiving and opening the package, back in the box it went. I don't even remember where I stashed it.

Few recent issues of FSM seem to have fewer and fewer pages, and only couple of printed reviews. They point to their website for more reviews. Well, the reason I get a paper version is that I want to see the reviews in print. I wrote a letter to the editor about this reduced coverage in print, but I did not receive a response (not I expect one). While I have subscribed to FSM for over 30 years, I do not appreciate the slow slimming of its contents. I might just drop it when my subscription expires later this year. But this move to digital versions of printed media seems unstoppable. Too bad . . .

Are those gauge decals similar to the ones https://www.ebay.com/str/bestbalsakits from Belgium sells?

Nice pair! I like it!

Well, the way I interpreted the problem is that the "scars" or lines are not only visible, but can be physically felt (maybe when running a fingernail over the surface). But whether the material, the injection temperature or pressure are not optimal, I believe the problem is with the manufacturing process (not the painting process). I have painted models which clearly had those injection artifacts in the p(usually metallic colored) plastic, and the the scars did not emerge after painting.

Thanks! I am not looking for a kit - I just verify my sanity (that the photo could not have been taken in 1944).

As described in the initial post "Hello, I have noticed that in many of the newer AMT kits, the bare styrene bodies and hoods have these random "scar" lines in them. It almost looks like a fracture, but I don't think it is", the flaw is already visible on bare plastic, before painting. Spraying the body with hot paint just makes the flaw more visible. The problem is not with paint, but with the manufacturing process.