peteski

Yes, that one. They also sold another one (even better), where the mirror was angled slightly. Basically the same glass and mirror, but the end pieces were different.

Well, you you put it that way, then I agree. Of course 80s and 90s cars will never be restored or maintained in the numbers that the older cars were. Like you said, there is entire industry devoted to producing replacement parts for them. Plus there are not many of the 80s or 90s cars left to be restored - most of them were junked. That makes them rare and unique. But give it another 20 or 30 years, and even those 50s and 60s will become rare, and parts for them scarce. But I disagree about style - some of the 80s and 90s cars are quite stylish. I guess it is in the eye of the beholder. Plus, many of those cars hold nostalgic values for certain age group of people, and will always be a curiosity for the show attending public. Like I said, at car shows I'm sick of seeing the same old "classics", but I'll gladly stop by, examine, and chat with the owner of an oddball Pacer, Gremlin or a Vega. Those to me are what makes vintage car shows interesting. Again, we all have different tastes.

I mentioned the mirrored base idea earlier in this thread. Scale Motorsports made model car display stands which had angled mirrors. Not sure if they still have them for sale, but that would be the easiest way to show off the cars underside.

As my ownership of the '85 Eldorado indicates, I disagree. Not only it has an elegant and pleasing body design, it has lots of innovative features (for when it was produced). I also get lots of positive comments at the car shows I attend. Not boring at all. It also still have that "boat like"' ride that none of today's cars have. And it even handles fairly well for what it is. It is a collectible to me. I would actually give more attention to either of the cars you mentioned at a car show than to another '57 Chevy, or a '65 Vette. And age-wise, I'm in my my mid-50's. I guess it is all relative.

With the constant COVID-19 coverage by the news media, I was hoping to escape it here, and now we have at least 3 threads going here about it.

OK, but the "chroming" process most (almost all) model companies, and "platers" that cater to model markets use is vacuum metalizing, using aluminum and clear lacquer. No silver nitrate is involved in the process. I provided info about this process in my initial post on this thread (second post from the top). It is a fairly simple, and widely used process which does not use liquid chemicals. As for other processes used by model companies, only Trumpeter strayed from the norm and used actual electroplating process on their kit's. The "chrome"was actually relatively thick layer of metal, impossible to strip using the typical caustic chemicals, and even difficult to scrape mechanically. I'm sure that process used some nasty toxic chemicals.

I can relate! Here is my mid-80s classic Caddy. It is 35 years, old but the old fogies at the car shows will never consider it a "classic car". In their eyes, classics stop in the '60s.

Pete, are you proposing to for individual modelers using this system for their own models, or as a business venture to provide "chroming"service for modelers (like ChromeTech USA or Little Motor Kar Company)? I think that as a business venture, vacuum metalizing would be much better process. Except for the clear lacquer I don't think there are any chemical involved in vacuum metalizing. Just a vacuum chamber, electricity, and strips of aluminum to vaporize in the chamber. Then as I mentioned a coat of clear lacquer before and after metalizing. No nasty chemicals (which are used in electroplating). Seems much simpler (and likely cheaper to run) than Alsa. I would love for someone (like Greg Wann) to jump at the opportunity.

I hear this a lot from people who use spray cans. It really burns me up! It takes me around a minute to "clean" my airbrush, to get it ready for the next job. One of these days I have to make a video of my method, so that excuse gets squashed. Airbrush gives you *SO MUCH* more control of your painting process. I described my cleaning method on another forum. Here is a link to that post (I recommend reading the entire thread): https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=41067.msg511017#msg511017

I judge a mostly model car contest (non-IPMS) so we don't get many military models. But we never had any sort of mishaps like that. I don't know what to say in your instance. Seems very irresponsible on the part of judges. I would either never enter that contest again (most likely), or at least not bring any delicate models with working features on them.

Who is "they"? Too vague. Any references? Reliable source? Trust no one! Last time (in the thread that was locked) you said it was from meat in a Walmart meat market. We need to make sure the info is coming from multiple trustworthy sources.

Nice job on the bug! The way you customized it reminds me of the tasteful customizing my friends did on his 1:1 scale '68 Beetle (work in progress). I love the old-school VW wheels with low profile tires. and the low stance.

Sorry to hear that this happened. Unfortunately, you have to make sure nothing falls off the model when it is picked up (or place a note beside it with instructions of what to remove from the model first, or not to pick it up at all). Judges can't read minds. I'm assuming that the contest rules clearly stated that the model will be picked up during judging. I've been a judge at contests and I'm also the club's contest photographer. When I'm about to handle the model to be photograph I always ask the builder how to pick it up and whether it is safe to manipulate it. On fragile models I often instruct them to handle the model themselves and pose it for me.

Um, are you taking lessons from participants in the Spotlight Hobbies forum?

Yes, pretty much anything can be vaccum metalized. But you have to make sure the surfaces of your parts are as smooth as you want the final finish to look like. While the parts, before the metallic layer is deposited are first coated with a glossy clear coat, imperfections will show up (just like when trying to achieve a smooth glossy paint job on a car body). Also, if you are planing on plating hollow parts (like fuel tanks) which could possibly have sealed interior, make sure to drill a small hole to vent the interior. The vacuum metalizing process (as the name implies) places the parts in a vacuum, so if the sealed hollow parts are sealed, they might crack or explode.

Ah, we have here a perfect example of how inexpensive this hobby is! Of you were to add the cost of the kit and all the supplies and divided it by 186, I have feeling that it will be just few bucks per hour of enjoyment (or sometimes frustration).

Sweet!

Wow! Seeing the Revell and Tamiya kit parts next to each other shows just how much softer the Revell's engraving is. Excellent find Silvester.

Unfortunately I really don't think there is high enough demand for small metalizing jobs to justify opening bunch of profit-making vacuum metalizing businesses. If there was money in it, someone would have jumped at the opportunity. Like I said, there are plenty of vacuum metalizing business out there that do this on a large scale. Greg Wann expressed interest in this business. Finances are the usual obstacle. Here is a related thread (and 2 more inside it)

You, this is just starting. It will not magically go away like some people said.

Depends on the specific contest - there are no general country-wide rules. At my club's show they will pick up the model unless there is a note stating not to pick it up. Also many modelers display their models on some sort of stand, with a mirror on the bottom, allowing for viewing under the model without lifting it. Judges also carry small flashlights to be able to better see in the dark areas (like inside the engine compartment, or the model's interior.

No secret Lorne - the most often used process for "chroming" plastic parts (like model parts or plastic spoons) is vacuum metal deposition (or vacuum metalizing). It isn't actually chromium, but a very thin layer of aluminum. You can do it yourself - all you need is the equipment. Here is some info - you are more than welcome to start your own business catering to model builders - we sure could use another facilitator. https://www.vacuum-metalizing.com/what-is-vacuum-metalizing/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_Metal_Deposition There are many companies out there which perform vacuum metalizing, but they usually do not want to deal with small orders (they do this on a large scale for model kit companies or plastic spoon manufacturers), I believe that ChromeTech USA was only a middle-man - he would gather bunch of orders then hire one of those industrial metalizing companies to do the work for him.

Congratulations Kurt! Your package was handles gingerly, and the parts look great! Take that Alclad and Molotow! EDIT: While it was staring me in the face, I don't know why I didn't realize that there was an "Oops". Oh well, live and learn. . . . I never use silicone caulking when I mount my parts on the rack. I drill and pin, and use CA glue. Here is one of my racks. Some parts and parts of the reck have been already cut out. The rack is made of Evergreen square styrene.

And that to me is even better than winning a trophy.

Kind of makes you step back, and think about just how fuzzy those moons might have looked like viewed through Gallileo's original telescope.