peteski

To be honest, I would feel weird about building a model where certain parts will be assembled under stress. I would be worried that after some time problems (such as cracks) might develop. When customizing 1:1 vehicles, the body's sheet metal can be shaped (bent, etc.) so any stress is minimized, but with plastic the stress will remain forever. Maybe that's why I don't do any serious body customizing on my models.

Ah, ok, so that's the clamping action. Got it!

I guess I have hard time seeing a "clamp" (at least going by what the word "clamp" means to me). Are those metal staples considered clamps?

To me this is looks like careless spelling mistake. It probably means "test" as in "needs test drive; something wrong". Maybe the person who wrote it did not know how to spell "test"?

Since they posted fine in this thread, they are now uploaded to the forum (in your attachments). Just go to the thread you want to reply in, then start your reply and when you want to add the images, just copy/paste the direct links to the 2 photos here: https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2024_12/20241205_130945.thumb.jpg.f9b1951dd4766ede7a1cb4eed12dd99b.jpg https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2024_12/20241205_130932.thumb.jpg.16532f67674c793dd3e999e5a5fc36ef.jpg As you paste those links, they will automatically expand to photos.

And so was One Foot in the Grave, Are You Being Served, and Vicar of Dibley. Then there is Monty Python, but some people find that one too silly or weird. Fawlty Towers was great too.

Actually just the snow cover or rain on a parked car are not a major problem. It is the salt on the roads in the winter if the car is driven that causes issues. Another big problem is if the uncovered car sits in the open and all the dead falling leaves and pine needles settle into all the low areas on the car and are left on it. When they get wet from rain or snow, they retain the moisture which starts to slowly rot the body. Don't ask me how I know (and now know better).

Whether it is or not is to me less important than the fact that the color-shifting flakes seem way out of scale (too large) for 1:12 or small scale cars. It might be ok for 1:8 scale, but it would still look like the glittery finish used on bass-boats.

The "hotness" of the paint has nothing to to with amount of solvent present in it. It is the chemical composition of the solvent itself. Solvents can be substances like naphtha, alcohols, acetone, and many others. They are usually blended using multiple ingredients, and depending on the blend, some are "hotter" than others.

Model railroad manufacturers also display their models at those toy fairs, and we all know how expensive that hobby is, and how elaborate adult-built model train layouts can get. Also remember the warnings usually present on model packaging about the item not recommended to kids under 14 (or whatever that age is nowadays), and also about difficulty level (again that goes back to the age thing). Do teenagers over 14 play with toys? Do 59 year old people play with toys? I guess they can. I guess it all goes back to definitions of toys and scale models. I guess a scale model can be a toy just as some toys can be a scale models.

Back when they were still around, American SATCO sold a wide range of rubber tires which were used by various Japanese kit manufacturers. They had Pirellis, but none in scale 14" size. Here is a listing of their tires. They show up on eBay from time to time.

I would be careful with that. Naphtha will dissolve Testors enamels and other not-fully-cured enamels. It could affect some lacquers (again, if lacquers are not fully dried). Also if left on any paint surface for longer time, it might affect (dull) them. After all it Naphaha is an organic solvent used as thinner, but a quick light touch wipe should not hurt the lacquer's surface.

Mike, since you mentioned that you have been using the Scotch blue painter's tape problem-free for years, what has changed to cause the problem? Is the blue tape different somehow? Are you using different type of paints/primer? Are you spraying the paint different way than in the past? Are you applying the tape to the painted surface before it is fully dry? That would likely cause the tape adhesive to soften and leave adhesive residue. I like Tamiya masking tape (or Washi tape) but I have used Scotch brand blue tape in the past without problems.

I'm not into hot rods so I was unaware of those wheels in the '36 Ford kit. To me these wheels look like ones used in VW Beetles or early Porsches (which were somewhat related to Beetles). I did not realize that '36 Fords used similar bolt pattern/wheel design.

Excellent news for procrastinators like me who waited too long and the last remaining model parts plating service (LMKC) closed their doors. I wonder if Spotlight Hobbies purchased their vacuum metalizing equipment from LMKC's Dale, or they acquired their own (or maybe outsource the service like Chrome Tech USA did)?

The 63/37 solder is a standard eutectic solder which has been used for electronic component soldering for many decades (until the lead had to be eliminated from solder for environmental reasons). I still use it for all the electronic part soldering because it is eutectic, and has a relatively low melting point, but it is not a very strong solder. Silver bearing solder is much stronger. Flux is vital for good solder joints but rosin flux is not very aggressive. If it worked for Greg, that s great. For soldering harder to solder metals I use acid-based flux like Tix Flux which is based on Zinc Chloride. It makes soldering steel much easier. Of course the soldered areas have to be well cleaned first.

There are many different "experts" out there giving "advice", some of which might be more or less accurate. Often it's inaccurate even if the "expert" is meaning well. There are many different compressors out there. Some with storage tanks, others without. Also, how hot is the compressed air, and what is the recommended air temperature? One thing that is certain is that a moisture trap is absolutely required to remove moisture from the compressed air. But since the airbrush hose is connected *AFTER* the trap, that air is already dry (and cool), so why would additional cooling (to the room's ambient temperature) be even needed? Logically thinking, that curly hose cooling air thing makes no sense. Personally, I use a Badger airbrush and I prefer using the very thin black rubbery hose from Badger. It is more like thin tubing than a hose. The cheapest one they have. It is very flexible and light.

Seems that more and more drivers are either purposefully ignoring traffic rules or are just oblivious to them (or both).

There are some excellent words of wisdom in a a post on another forum I frequent. https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=58804.msg809939#msg809939 Actually skimming through the entire thread is also quite enlightening, and so are other threads in that section of the Railwire forum dedicated to 3D printing.

You might get better response in a dedicated thread about 3D printing (not in a thread asking if it is worth it).

Jürgen, the ability to edit your own post using the "..." (three dot) menu is time limited. After several days you can no longer edit your posts. Some time ago the time limit was something like 3 days but I think it was extended. If it is a very old thread you would have to ask admins to change it. Looks like you were able to change the title (subject line). If you didn't see it at first, you might have to do a full reload of the web page.

It is not their fault. The car's video system operating the 360 degree view cameras outside of the car is way out alignment. The driver clearly saw on the video screen that he was parked within the marked parking space.

Yes, it is surprising what sort of chemical interactions can happen with what we perceive as typical plastics and adhesives we use in out hobbies.

Also (what many clueless panicking drivers out there fail to realize), when your main hydraulic brakes fail you can put the car in Neutral and use the parking/emergency brake to slow it down or keep it from rolling. I guess in a real emergency while the car is still moving you could try to shift the automatic transmission in "park:", but that would likely not end well for the transmission (but might save a life). I mentioned that because your vehicle is like still old enough to be able to do do the things I mentioned above. New cars with electric parking brake and electronic pushbutton gear shifting will likely not let you do any of those things because it is all controlled by a computer which will decide that what you are trying to do is not safe for the car. We are losing control of out vehicles to their computer "brains". It is not a good thing.

Nathan, When you apply brakes hard enough to stop a car weighting thousands of pounds, the pressure in rake lines is hundreds of psi. That is why the are made of steel. Electrical tape is totally useless. If the brake pedal is not depressed, there is no pressure in the line, so I suppose electrical tape would slow down the leak. I do suspect that the brake fluid, in short order, will attack (soften or dissolve) electrical tape's adhesive. It was a smart move to have the it towed to the shop.