peteski

You are probably trying to use it the way you would conventional plastic cement. I use CA glue almost exclusively on all my builds. First of all, make sure the plastic is clean (grease free), then use CA and accelerator. Accelerator is the key. BSI brand is the best (often sold as as your local hobby store brand). BSI is Bob Smith Industries. Look it up on the web.

My friend owns one of them - cool but quirky car. IIRC, it has a fiberglass body.

The problem is that while these "free spirits" will likely not have any serious problems from contracting COVID-19, but then they will inadvertently end up (just by community transmission) infecting dozen others, an so on, and so forth. Some of those infected by those clueless yootz will be seniors or other people with compromised immunity, who will end up dying. But those idiots aren't really thinking that far ahead. All they think of its themselves, and nothgin else matters. My GF's take is that young people do no fully develop the part of their brain responsible for reasoning and decision making until mid 20s.

My contribution to this thread is a Revell 1:6 Hemi 426 engine I built over 10 years ago. The kit seems to have been produced in early 2000s. This is not something I usually build, but for some reason it attracted me. It was a pre-painted kit, but that didn't stop me from doing some additional painting and adding bunch of detail parts.

Thanks Dave - I was looking for escape from all the gloom and doom out there. I even asked: But looks like that will not be needed for this subject.

I don't, but some here clear coat over the BMF. It is actual metal foil, so clear coat will not affect its reflectivity, like it does with Chrome-like paints (Alclad, Molotow).

While H0 is the most popular scale (it has been all along), N scale is 2nd most popular, with all the other scales behind it. So of course, the widest range of models available will be in H0. But the N-scalers today have a huge variety of models available too. These are the best of times for N scale. Besides the plastic kits, there are oodles of laser-cut and 3D printed structures and if you were to peruse the Railwire forum, some modelers even design and 3D-print their own locomotive shells and some parts of the mechanisms (and kitbash their own locomotives not offered for sale by the model manufacturers). A good historical look at the N scale is at http://www.davidksmith.com/modeling/index.htm (in the Modeling Resources section), but the rest of the website is also very informative. And for hundreds of N scale locomotive and rolling stock reviews see http://spookshow.net/. Here are some manufacturers of good quality laser-cut structures: http://www.laserkit.com/laserkit.htm and https://blairline.com/ , and I highly recommend checking out https://www.showcaseminiatures.net/n_scale/ for some really cool model kits. There are also dozens of other N scale maunufacturers out there. The Walthers catalog lists most of them.

So the actual visible rim diameter would be 17.5".

Looks like that replica uses the same green paint on the motor and chassis, where the photo I posted shows red engine parts and black chassis. I was actually surprised with how many modern photos of this vehicle are out there, and how many variations exist.

Thanks for that. Sounds like you find your job fulfilling. But cursive writing might not be dead yet. https://fox6now.com/2019/04/12/cursive-writing-is-making-a-comeback-in-classrooms-in-several-states/ https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/life/news/a43159/cursive-writing-is-making-a-comeback/ https://www.businessinsider.com/cursive-making-comeback-american-schools-2017-3-2?op=1 https://www.washingtonpost.com/local/education/once-all-but-left-for-dead-is-cursive-handwriting-making-a-comeback/2016/07/26/24e59d34-4489-11e6-bc99-7d269f8719b1_story.html https://www.cnn.com/2019/04/12/us/cursive-is-coming-back-trnd/index.html So, there is hope. I grew up in Poland and we also had cursive writing lessons is school (slightly different than the style used here), but I never embraced it, and my handwriting is terrible.

Was that nice handwriting beaten into you by nuns in a Catholic school, or you are just naturally neat?

Looks good! And you are correct - those are all nice little kits. Similar quality kits are also available from Atlas (another N scale manufacturer). N Scale mode RR is my other hobby. I spend lots of time on https://www.therailwire.net/

I wonder if you used the tire's bead diameter for the rim size? Rims are about 1.5" larger than the bead size. So a 15" tire will have rim that has a visible diameter of 16.5". That makes a visible difference.

That looks great Ken. BTW, it was me who posted a photo of the 1:1 car. I also questioned the annealing of those spokes. As far as the nubs on the end of the spokes go, I use a technique of cutting photographed parts out that minimizes cleanup. I place the photoetched fret on a piece of aluminum. Then, wearing an Optivisor (to have real closeup of what I'm doing) I use single-edge razor blade to cut the part out, making the cut as close to the part as possible. It has to be single-edge razor - hobby knife blade is too thick. I use the end of the blade and I press down on where I want to cut while also slightly rocking the blade sideways. That way you end up with a very clean cut, often with no stub to clean up. Do not try this on any softer backing material. Aluminum is perfect. It does not deflect while cutting the part, yet it is soft enough not to dull the blade. This was domestic shipping (both me and the vendor are in USA). Problem is now resolved (well I won't know for sure until I receive the correct kit). They even found an explanation. Both kits were by ICM and must have been packed at the same time. They accidentally shipped my kit to someone who ordered the biplane, and I received their biplane instead. They expect to get a similar kind of call from the other person (their package was just delivered today). The are shipping me the correct kit, and a postage-paid return label so I can ship the wrong kit back to them. While I would rather not have to deal with mistakes like this, look like they do provide good customer service.

Wheel and tire dimensions should be readily available to make sure they are correct on the model. The 3D drawing is amazing! Do you have an idea how many hours you put into this project so far?

Who wrote "Autographed on . . ."? It is a very nice example of cursive writing.

Modelers who found Tamiya, have discovered the Holly Grail of model kits. I know, their models are of limited appeal to many American modelers (especially older ones who pine for American vintage or muscle cars), but if you want a precisely molded model, with perfectly-fitting parts, Tamiya is it.

The temperature of the stripping solution also makes a big difference in its potency. Cold stipping solution is less effective than warm one. 80-90 deg. F solution will work much better than one at 50-60 deg. F. And yes, there are so many kinds of paint formulas that there is no single best answer. That is why there is a very long sticky thread about paint strippers here in this section of the forum.

Thanks.

I sure hope so. I ordered the correct kit, and the invoice/packing list also show the correct part number and description. Just the model is wrong. I'll call them tomorrow, and since this is 100% their fault, they better pay shipping the wrong model back to them.

Lots of streaming video is pay-per-view. And just like with plastic modeling hobby with mostly older folks who like the '60s muscle cars over modern cars, there are still plenty of older people who prefer the full movie experience. But we are getting older, and older, and older . . .

The Ford Taurus??

I'm convinced that many of those smart-phone movie watchers don't care. They prefer the convenience of watching (on a tiny screen) any place or time over the large screen, and full sound experience. Probably the same people who will just as happily will eat a hamburger instead of a juicy steak.

To get self driving cars to be as good driving as average human (no funny comments from the peanut gallery ), they will have to use some fuzzy logic, and quantum computing.

Looks like I was one of the unlucky ones. I ordered this kit from Megahobby and the package arrived. Inside is a model or a biplane! ICM 32040 Gloster Gladiator Mk.I And it is not even packaged in the Mercedes box - it is boxed in its correct box with a biplane artwork. Someone there is sending out wrong kits. They are probably just stored in a wrong warehouse location. I guess they can't tell a difference between an automobile and an aircraft.