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Everything posted by peteski
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I guess a test spray before applying it to the model would have also revealed the problem, but then again, why would you do with a can that is clearly labeled as to what is inside? I venture a guess that the can is simply not labeled properly. I wonder if it was just a on-off mistake, or a larger batch of mislabeled cans is out there in hobby shops ready to ruin bunch of models?
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This is an unusual thread. Here are few of mine. These are N scale (1:160) bumper cars I made for a carnival scene on a train layout. I made a master from clear acrylic, made RTV mold and case several cars using urethane resin. The electric pole is painted brass wire. I also etched by own steering wheels and soldered them to another brass rod steering column. The figure is just an N scale person (not scratch built). I have a thread about these, but Photobucket puked on me. I also made N scale golf carts. Again I made a master from acrylic, made RTV mold, and cast them using urethane resin. The golf bag is made from a piece of black wire insulation and slices of heat-shrink tubing. Golf clubs are pieces of thin stainless steel wire. The strap in the back is a thin slice of black (antistatic) vinyl bag. Steering wheel is photoetched by me, like I did for the bumper cars. Next, when I built the Monogram Ultimates 1:43 289 Cobra, I ended up scratch building many small items. Most of the items on the bottom (in the yellow box, on the piece of white styrene on the lower right, items on the popsicle stick) are all scratch built. Also the door panels, vent windows, and sun visors. I also designed the gauge faces in Corel Draw and had them printed on a transparent film. Then I just painted the back of the film white (and orange for the pointers) and I had an instant gauge cluster (glued in from the back of the dash).
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That looks great! Military modelers use lead foil for things like seat belts. Some online hobby shops catering to military modelers sell small swatches. But I just Googled "lead foil" and it appears that it is available (used for radiation shielding). You can find it on Amazon too. I've seen come 0.006" thick foil - probably good for what you need..
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Wow! That brought back some memories! I used to use an identical tool, but branded as "Weller" (yes, the soldering iron folks)! It just has a different brand sticker on it. Weller probably made these for JC Penney. It was identical (including the case, and the Styrofoam tool and bits cradle. I bought mine in the '80s. It is basically like the earlier Dremel tools (motor with with sleeve bearings). Mine was single-speed, but I added my own speed controller using a dimmer switch. I stuffed all the parts inside it, and had the speed control pot shaft mounted just about in the same spot where the factroy speed control knob is. I never found a good size knob for mine, so I just turned the shaft.. I eventually upgraded to a Dremel with ball bearings, but my Weller was still in working order. It still sits somewhere buried deep in my workshop. Thanks for the memories!
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Owned a '77 (bought it from mom). It was cream color with brown vinyl roof. Brown interior. It had a front bench seat and of course gear shift on the steering column. No mags - just steel wheels with wheel covers. What a "boat" it was! I would love to get my hands on this kit.
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Old Gauge
peteski replied to Ulbo's topic in WIP: All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures
Nice! Very impressive! -
I'm glad that you got it to work. Did you read the thread I pointed to? By "bad" words I do not mean swears. Bad words are words that can be interpreted as SQL commands (SQL is a database running this forum). For example the word s e l e c t (without spaces between the letters of course) will trigger the 404 error. Many other similar everyday words will also trigger the problem. One of the posts in that thread has a link to SQL commands, so you can get an idea which words you are using could be the "bad" words.
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Mike, I'm not sure what you are asking about. I assume that you have that kit and instructions. I built that Gunze 1:32 kit over 20 years ago, IIRC following the instructions. It does retract as advertised. ONe thing I had to do was to shorten the short front piece of the roof. For some reason it was too long. But it works. Here is a photo of my model, also taken 20 years ago (with the roof up).
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Most realistic way of making autu glass??????????
peteski replied to doorslammer68's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Look on eBay. If not, you should be able to find polycarbonate (Lexan) sheets of that thickness. It works as well as PETG. You can also find this stuff on Amazon, but some of the prices there are amazingly high.- 19 replies
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- autoglass
- windshield
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Wood Trailer Decking Question
peteski replied to Oldmopars's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Coffee stirrers are thin and narrow. Popsicle/ice-cream sticks and tongue depressors are made from thicker wood and are quite wide. I guess it is whatever you think will look good on a model. -
Big Red. Never knew about this.
peteski replied to BaBaBooey's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
While in a different class (propelled by jet engine exhaust thrust), there was also the Black Beetle. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-497_Black_Beetle -
Old Gauge
peteski replied to Ulbo's topic in WIP: All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures
Nicely done memorial for your relative! Did you design the electronics too? I'm wondering if it is based on an Arduino (or similar microcontroller), or old-school analog circuit? -
As it has been stated in "How To Use This Board" section, the problem is likely caused by some "bad" word within your post. If you haven't yet, I recommend reading this entire thread.
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The original l question was "... what would be good to replicate wiring harness for 1/25 scale models [?]" To me it is pretty obvious that it is about a scale harness that depicts the 1:1 item (not a functional harness which will actually be used to conduct electricity to working lights or other features on a scale model).
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But with steel wire core, can they be shaped easily (liken have sharp bends in them or be laid down on a curved surface) and remain in the pre-formed shape? I seem to recall thick guitar strings being rather stiff.
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Sherline milling machine base?
peteski replied to 2zwudz's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Mark, if you go to your profile, you can see and revisit all of your posts and threads. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/profile/18334-2zwudz/ Here is the thread you started asking about milling machines, and here you aslo got lots of answers recommending Sherline. It would have made more sense to continue posting Sherline questions there, instead of starting new thread. Here you go. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/148581-looking-for-recommendations-on-a-bench-top-milling-machine/?tab=comments#comment-2184436 -
Why not "real engine"? Well, because electric cars do not burn dead dinosaur juice, and spew carbon dioxide and lots of other nasty gasses. Yeah I know, right now the electricity to charge up those cars comes from a power plant which likely still spews nasty gasses into the atmosphere, but once there is a way to produce 100% pollution-free electricity, electric cars will be widely accepted (save for few die-hard internal combustion "nuts"). What electric cars have (that is lacking in the dinosaur engines) is low-end torque. A high-end electric cars will likely beat any internal-combustion engine cars in 0-60 or 1/4 mile runs. While I never had a chance to experience this myself, as I understand it, the acceleration from dead stop is amazing (and not ear-shattering). And as far as food goes, you don't like onions, I don't like cheese (and they put that spoiled-milk product pretty much in ever dish).
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Plaza Japan is a large and reliable Japanese merchant. They have good grasp of English language and I have no doubt they will make things good. Here is an excerpt from Plaza Japan shipping policies: If you receive a damaged or incorrect item, we will exchange with the same item at no extra charge. In such cases, we must receive a report from you via e-mail within 1 week from the delivery date. They probably mean "eBay message" since eBay hides seller's emails and forbids contact outside of eBay..
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Good source for windshield wipers
peteski replied to OldNYJim's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yeah, they're ok, but I would take a 1-piece lost-wax brass casting any day over those. But nobody makes an item like that. -
How about having it both ways: Searching for and resurrecting the old thread, adding the current questions to that thread, then have others in-the-know adding the appropriate new info as needed? Do we really need 20 different thread about selecting an airbrush, or stripping paint? And I don't think of the online forum as "social media". Just an old fashion online forum. your tongue Tom!
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Resin body slowly dying!!
peteski replied to Lorne's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
While a totally different material (metal) and a different problem, the end result is defective model. It is called "zinc rot" or "zinc pest". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_pest -
They make sound systems for electric cars (ones that just make noise to warn people walking by that the car is about to move, and also ones which actually simulate internal combustion engine sound). And onions are delicious (especially sauteed golden brown). Love them, and chives too!
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Painting interior parts to look like cloth?
peteski replied to crowe-t's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Cute! Ok then "suede finish" paint. ? I did some digging on the Interwebs and it was actually Faux Fabric paint that Scale Motorsports used to sell. It appears to be discontinued. Here is a link to black paint https://www.autoworldstore.com/product-p/sms5503.htm , but when these were still available, they came in other colors too. -
I'd take this one a little more seriously if people hadn't been repeating it pretty much verbatim since before I was born. I believe bbowser is correct (and all the people saying the same thing for years were also correct). Remember, that you are not "most people: you are an automotive enthusiast. You like cars (either model or 1:1 cars). In the greater scheme of things, you are in minority of the population. Car enthusiasts have always been just a small proportion of the general population for many decades. For majority of car owners, the car is (and has always been) an appliance to get you from one place to another, in relative comfort. This goes for people in 1950s who bought bare-bones cars, people in the '60s who bought Ford Falcons and similar cars, people who bought Pintos, Vegas, and low-end Toyotas in the '70s, K-cars in the '80, Toyota Corollas in the '90s, and so on . . . Great majority of those folks have no great passion for driving. They probably would be just a happy for someone else (or a coomputer) to do the driving. Catch my drift? You are the special one (along with a very small chunk of the general population) who finds great passion in car ownership, driving, and building scale models.