peteski

With millions of mail pieces they go through every day, stuff like that can happen. It happened to me too. I also had a package from Japan (non-tracked) lost in the mail for few months. Finally I received a large envelope from USPS which contained the top of the package box and an official form stating that the package got damaged and that the box top was the only thing from the package they found.

I've done that too (honest). It does take lots of elbow grease. I was also contemplating spraying the tread with Dullcote, to dull the grooves, then using sandpaper to to scuff the rest of the tread, but I have not tried that.

Tamiya Jar paint is nothing like the paint in the TS-series spray cans. Jars contain their "water-based" (mostly alcohol-based) acrylic paints, while the spray cans contain much hotter synthetic lacquers.

When making scale model parts (either 1:6 or 1:700 scale) precision is a good thing. It is not an overkill for styrene. Like Art I have owned my Sherline since the '80s and have upgraded it multiple times. This 1:160 (N scale) model I built has the headlights turned out of styrene rod (painted with Alclad II brass) while the bell, siren, and the water nozzle (on the running board) are turned out of brass.

I can vouch vouch for that technique too. I've been using it for years and I thought I invented it. But obviously others had the same bright idea. The other good thing about that technique is that the tape automatically (and cleanly) pulls up the extra foil.

I'm enjoying every new posts Harry - you really have the knack to build this large-scale kits well. They look like fine models, not like large toys (which often is the case with large scale kits).

You are making some incredible progress Robert! As far as the front light reflectors go, could you make them more parabolic shape to closer represent the 1:1 headlights? Thar will greatly add to the realism of the model. Headlights are one of those areas which are often not done correctly on models, destroying the realism.

As Art mentioned, 3D printed prototype mock-up are already being extensively used in the industry. 3D-printed masters for resin or pewter cast models are also already used by several companies. In time I'm sure that more and more companies (or cottage industries) will be using that technology. There are several 3D printing technologies and dozens of printers which vary in printting resolution from really coarse to so fine that the printed items look like they have been injection-molded. Of course the cost of the fine-resolution printouts are much higher than the low-res ones. But if used as a master, it pays to invest in a high-res printout.

I love the woodie look Bob! I you aren't planning on making more decals, how about sharing your decal artwork?

I recall seeing his name in modeling magazines. I'm very sad to hear of his passing. My condolences to his family and friends.

Oh cool! I guess I did get really lucky! http://www.ebay.com/itm/262669983929 There is another one currently on eBay with BiN price of $99 (I guess that is closer to the going price then).

2-stroke engines have been running without conventional valves for probably 100 years. Cars, motorcycles, lawnmowers, chainsaws, etc. . .

As I understand, Shapeways uses ProJet HD 3000Plus printers for FUD and FXD printing.

Dirt/grunge/mud/dust is usually tan/beige/gray, so using washes or chalks using those colors will give you the effect you are looking for.

You're killin' me Harry! I was really good not buying any more kits (I have more than I can build in my lifetime, and here you go and post your build of this car. I was ale to resist until you showed lacing the wheels. Those are gorgeous! Now I want to get that model kit - even if only to learn this very interesting lacing technique to make it work on some custom wheels I would like to make for some of my other kits. So I went on eBay and I found one of these kits listed, ending at 11pm EDT. I ended up gettign it for $41. I think I got a bargain. Now I can learn that lacing technique (and maybe even build this cool model someday).

I'm a bit confused about this voltage gauge thing. In the cars I have dealt with a voltage gauge is a voltmeter hooked up to the main power distribution junction in the car. It doesn't specifically read the alternator but the overall health of the 12V electrical system. If that type of a gauge dropped to zero volts your car would stall as there would not be any power available to power the engine ignition or rest of the cars electrical circuit. Usually when alternator no longer charges the battery the voltage drops from around 14V to under 12V (since it is running just from the battery).

Cool diorama - I see nothing wrong. There are a lot more explicit and bloody scenes on network TV (do we still call those stations "network TV")?

What has been seen cannot ever be unseen! Yuck! It is even uglier than a Pontiac Aztek! Until now I have never seen any photos of the real car or the model. Now I don't ever want to see it again (although I seem to notice some vague resemblance to a Fiero, which is a decent looking car).

Is it their FUD or FXD material? At least that is what those are called in USA.

The diorama is really well done (you have the knack to capture motion frozen in time) but the the photos seem distorted somehow (like the aspect ratio is off).

Dirty thumbs-up!

AY-men!

It is your model Steve, so you can obviously do as you please. I was just pointing out what jumps right out at me (maybe I'm extra anal, but that's usually a good thing when building models). It just seems lately that I have seen not properly aligned lenses on several factory-stock models. If I was judging them I would deducts points for that.

The MV lenses have very realistic looking reflectors, but the smooth lenses don't look realistic. Headlamp lenses (used in the standard U.S. specs headlamps) have optical facets molded in the glass. Lack of that detail really kills the realism. I've scribed the facets into the MV lenses in the past but it is a tedious process which (since it is done freehand) is not perfect. Speaking of the headlight lens optics (facets), I see lots of modelers not paying attention to how those facets line up. In real cars the headlamp unit is keyed to only fit in the headlamp holder one way. That is because the headlamp optics produce asymmetrical beam of light. If not installed properly the headlight could blind incoming cars, or not illuminate the road properly. The general rule is that the majority of the lines (facets) in the lens need to be perpendicular to the road surface. If they are not the realism is lost again. The above model has the lines in the lenses not perpendicular to the road. It might look cool, but it is not realistic for a road vehicle. It doesn't take any extra time or effort to properly position the kit-supplied lenses, but it makes a big difference in realism.

Is Humbrol Varnish a true varnish (resin dissolved in alcohol), or is "varnish" just a generic British term for a clear lacquer or enamel?