peteski

Whatever it is, it's airborne. At least, due to its size, it has much less wiring than a Dreamliner.

And there was no 4-hour delivery of your online order (along with tracking). You mailed the order form with a check and waited 4-6 weeks for the kits to arrive. We have it good today!

Interesting how closely the Maserati Boomerang resembles Lamborhini Marzal (just more angular). I got curious and found some info about it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maserati_Boomerang It actually looks pretty darn slick (and those are weird looking wheels - very '70s SciFi look)! I like it even better than the Marzal.

Or maybe build a nice glass display case to keep the dust/soot off. The model is definitely worthy!

Allrigthy then! That's pretty funny considering . . .

Funny thing is that I have heard or read from multiple sources that no mold release agent is used for injection molding polystyrene. Yes, I have seen some amber "stuff' on some model it parts too, but I wonder if it is just some stray lubricating il from the injection molding machine. It would be interesting to see if the yellow cast can be washed off by scrubbing the parts with soft brush and some warm water and dishwashing detergent.

Why keep another thread going when there is a thread on this subject currently active? Yes, even the apparently steep price has been mentioned there.

I also don't understand this quest to dull model kit's chrome (actually aluminum applied using vacuum metalizing process), because it looks "toyish". Polished chrome is chrome, regardless of scale. Maybe some of you just don't carefully observe the 1:1 scale world around you? Here's an example of 1:1 chrome. And one of my models with chrome parts: Why in the world would I want to make my model's chrome duller than what it looks like now? If anything, I wish it was even more "sparkly" and shiny. And a car example. Here is a 1:1 chromed bumper: Any my model of a similar car: Again, if anything, I wish my model's chrome was even shinier, brighter, and more reflective. In both examples, it was the original kit's chrome. Chrome is one of the things on a 1:1 car that stays shiny after the rest of the car rusts away. Even on junkers, the chrome stays shiny (although it might look a bit duller due to dirt and dust that covers it after a while). I just don't get it.

I think that is a very good idea Jason. There are already some topics like that where members request certain 3D parts to be made by certain individuals who produce 3D parts. This way we all can publicly recommend or request certain items we would like to see produced.

Not for profit doctors?! Where you find them (and who accept insurance) in USA? Medical field is a huge for-profit system. And doctors, just like with other professions: car mechanics, construction, workers, dentists, computer techs., house painters, gardeners (and every other profession or trade), there are good and not so good people out there. It stinks, but that's the reality. Yes, it would be good idea to try another doctor, hoping that they will be better as the old one.

Yup, I did see this one. It has couple small parts missing, and of course bad decal. We'll see how high the bidding goes. Good luck!

I remember Kraco, but at that time in my '76 Camaro I had a Vector Research radio/cassette player and a 40W Sparkomatic booster/equalizer with Pioneer speakers in the doors and the package deck. I think the front ones were 2-way 6" speakers, and the rear ones were 3-way 6X9s. I didn't live in a good neighborhood, so the radio was mounted in a Bensi box (remember those?). It made the radio removable, so I could take it with me. This was before removable faceplates became a thing. I also made a removable cover for the equalizer, so it wasn't visible. I think we are getting off the original subject here.

BSI CA adhesives (and accelerator) are my go-to CAs for model building. I pretty much have all viscosity, and odorless too. I decide on which one to use depending on the task at hand. But I have to admit that I'm addicted to the super-thin variety (with accelerator). I want my glue joints to set fast! Some hobby shops re-brand those as their own brand (but it is still BSI). Here the accelerator was re-branded for a local shop (long since closed).

I would go with Alclad II polished brass over gloss black or gray undercoat. It is similar to their chrome, but of course with brass color. So it looks like polished piece of brass. Airbrushed of course.

My '85 Caddy Eldorado has a factory-installed audio system (radio/cassette) made by Bose. Each of the 4 speakers has an amplifier built-in, and it sounds pretty good. As I understand the speakers were tuned to the car's interior. BTW, the "real" German company called Balupunkt is gone, and the trade name was bought up by a Chinese company that sells cheap electronic gadgets (like dash cams). I bought one without realizing it, and it was really crappy. I ended up returning it to the store. That's when I looked up Blaupunkt on the Internet and found out its fate. Similar fate happened to many other respected names (at least by the older folks). Fuller Brush and Bell&Howell are some of the trade names that ended up being own by Chinese vendors of cheap stuff.

Those knobs were handy when the power steering took like 5 turns from stop to stop. With rack-and-pinion the number of turns is greatly reduced. BTW< in my neck of the woods, it was called a "suicide knob". I like your version better. I still see blue-dots on some older cars at the cruises. Nowadays, with LED taillights (many tiny light sources in the entire lens - no single bulb to place the blue dot in front of), it wouldn't really work. Yes, those were illegal, but the aftermarket lighting on many of today's cars is blatantly illegal (green, blue, or purple halos on headlights) and blinding LED headlights, both factory installed, and aftermarket are magnitudes more annoying than blue-dots, and cops seem to ignore them all.

100 miles? Even for the 1998 vehicle with probably just an early OBDII ECM/ECU? How about taking extra round about way to get from point A to Point B? Even if caught, there is a chance that if carefully explained, the cop would understand and let it slide. It makes no sense to junk a perfectly good vehicle because of this stupid requirement.

What nutty laws! Aren't you the owner of the vehicle? So why not get that 1-day permit and drive it "to move it" from point A (where it is now) to point B (where the smog test is done)?

That sounds useful, but it seems that American and European kit manufacturers use different method for every kit. The only semi-standard wheel mount are used by most Japanese manufacturers (Tamiya, Fujimi, Aoshima, etc.) they use standard post on the inner side of the wheels, and a poly-cap where the wheel plugs into on the brake assy.

I suspect that it was a one-of from Bill - not a new slang. Unless he is trying to start something new.

But not so many that the model looks like it is dipped in honey. That ruins the realism.

Yes, this was a fun read. Thanks! And now, almost 50 years later, this is all done on computers - no wooden buck needed. Models are designed in CAD programs, and the prototypes are usually 3D printed before molds are cut (also by computerized equipment). There are humans involved too, but most of the machining is automatic.

Jason, it is great to see you join this forum! I have some ideas for you, and will contact you directly.

It depends. If the parts are printed on SLA printers (which are getting very popular - those often are shipped with printing supports which have to be cut off), then treat them as any plastic kit parts (I wash them in water with dishwashing detergent). If the parts are printed by Shapeways and are milky translucent color, those sometimes have waxy film on them which should be cleaned off. I use Naphtha (Ronsonol Lighter Fluid) to clean them.

Yes, if those pieces are molded on the body I would also try to foil them, then maybe apply some washes. The painted area on the narrow stripe will be very narrow. For the lower molding, you might be able to cut a strip of some colored decal film and apply to it (as the stripe is wider). Or before foiling, mask around the lower trim, paint the trim color, then apply and trim the foil so it only shows on the chromed parts of the trim.