SfanGoch

Bill, dollars to donuts it was John Vojtech, owner of UMM-USA. His instructional videos are still up on Youtube. Here's one: I also like the stainless scribers made by Hauler, HQT004 The scribers are only .18mm thick.

I used pen springs for the scratched rear shocks on an "H" Series Revell '55 Belair, the one with opening doors, hood and trunk. I fabricated functional leaf springs and shocks (each one composed of six parts), in addition to accurizing and detailing the chassis. I slipped the springs over the shock shaft and the shock is mounted to the spring plate while the spring is held in place when the shaft end is placed in a hole drilled into the sheet brass upper mounts on the chassis. The front springs were made from a heavy-duty spring I scavenged from a junk RC vehicle. You can barely see it; but, it is the proper scale thickness and diameter. I used the same kind of spring to detail the scratchbuilt front suspension I made for a Johan '64 Caddy DeVille. There are some cheap, Chinese-made hand tools that sell for a buck or so apiece at your local 99 cent store which have similar springs.

Check out scribing tools`at UMM-USA . There are stainless scribers from Hauler which I use and recommend. John Vojtech also makes his own scribing tools, which are excellent:

You might be able to pull it off using the turbine from The 1966 BM I mentioned. It looks to be smaller in diameter than the one pictured above. You would have to add a larger tunnel in the cockpit to clear the engine body and get a little creative in designing an exhaust (maybe a split type, exiting along the rear behind the tires).

Don't make assumptions as to the context or intent of my comment. Just stating a fact, as I see it. Simplicity and easy of use is foremost when I determine my tool and equipment requirements.

Well, AMT 1107, the 1989 Keaton Batmobile kit contains a "complete" turbine engine Unless one is resigned to the fact that a Cobra will require major surgery to stuff this baby under the body, it ain't bad looking. Honestly, I don't think this mod would be believable, engineering-wise.

Polar Lights 920 Has a turbine engine. The engine is 88mm long and 22mm in diameter at its widest point. The kit can be had for a paltry $29.04 from Shore Line Hobby, located in the wonderful, hurricane magnet state of Florida. Plus, the kit contains resin Batman and Robin figures to stuff into yer fancy new Bat Wheels.The kit itself is sehr kewl, too.

Nuthin' beats K&S Engineering's good ole Model No. 296 Tubing Cutter. This works as it's intended. No overly complicated Rube Golbergesque contraptions required: I swear by, not at, it. Grab one at Ace Hardware for six bucks.

Man, the Imperial Crown and Mako Shark are nice pickups, Tommy!

You would have loved it during the Blackout of 1977. Beirut was safer than Bushwick on July 13th. Fortunately, my nabe was spared. This is up the block from Milton St. Park, where a lot of us hung out listening to WNEW-FM and drank many fermented beverages. No pics of abandoned/stripped cars in the area. We were civilized savages who didn't dump where we slept.

Mr. Clay missed some. This was 1970s NYC which I remember. Enjoy the trip down Memory Lane kids! :

Ah...nope! I'm going to do like William Devane fondling gold coins with his flippers. Open the box every year on the anniversary of its acquisition and just stare at it. Seriously, though, I have a plan for this. Thanks for the heads up on the fender wells.

Nice haul David, especially the Nomad.

This Bone Is gonna look mighty nice alongside my 1.48 scale B-52C. Now, Revell needs to reissue the 1/48 scale B-58 for a giant scale bomber trifecta.

Likewise! I grew up and lived in the "other" end, Dupont/India. What part are you from?

AMT 06-553 1963 Buick Riviera 3 in 1 Customizing Kit Minty fresh and untouched by human hands.

I know where you're coming from regarding the glass, Steve. I ran across the same thing when googling images. '60-'61 Chryslers, Plymouths, Dodges and Desotos were available with either the "flat" or compound curve bubble windshield which was interchangeable between all models, including sedans and convertibles, through 1961. The problem I have encountered with the Desoto kit glass is that the bubble seems exaggerated compared to the real thing and it doesn't fit as well as the glass from the '62 300. The glass needs to be force-fitted into the windshield frame because it's too wide at the bottom of the vent window areas. To thin these areas down to make it fit properly is too labor intensive. It will be easier to make vacuform copies of the 300 glass with the flat profile.

I like CHEAP. Shipping time is beaucoup inexpensive and fast, around 7-10 days.

You get a better deal, price-wise, with Masterclub Nuts, Bolts & Rivets. A package of up to 200 pieces is only $2.25.

No biggie, it's Saturday.

Progress report: I did some sink mark filling on the trunk lid; and, since the details on the Lindberg '64 Mopar firewall are incorrect for a '60 Desoto Adventurer, I will remove and replace the details with a fiberglass resin cast of the kit's air evaporator box. Also, I'll use the Kelsey-Hayes master brake cylinder from the AMT '57 Chrysler 300 to replicate what I've seen in photos of the actual engine compartment. Additionally, I snagged a Chrysler Cross-Ram V8 to stuff under the hood. I'll definitely make copies if the induction system for other projects. One of the things that stands out and bugs me is the shape of the kit windshield. Looking at the actual car, you can see that it has a flat, even slope from the roof to cowl. That's not the case with the kit glass. There's a weird extension at the roofline, giving the car an odd appearance, sort of like it has a thyroid condition. This anomaly has been previously pointed out by others. The ''60-62 Chryslers shared the same roof sheet metal and glass (and just about everything else ) with Desotos of the same vintage. The pic below is of peekay's Johan 300H model featured here a few years ago. I took the glass from my '62 300 and test fit it into the Desoto body. Poifect, Moe! Fits like a glove, nyuk, nyuk, nyuk! When my Mattel Vac-U-Form Machine arrives, I'll make copies of the 300 glass. Next on the "it annoys the hell out of me list" are the tail light lenses. The kit lenses are too big, as seen in the photo of the Johan promo above. The look like someone jammed oversized apple turnovers into the housings. The kit lenses should be half their present size. Not to mention, the lenses are not made from transparent red styrene. They are painted. I discovered this while attempting to polish one. Go figure. So, using Alumilite Amazing Mold Putty, I made one piece molds and filled the cavities with fiberglass resin tinted with clear red acrylic paint and modified them to look like this I'm finding that casting small parts and details with fiberglass resin has numerous advantages over urethane resin and two part epoxy, the main one being quicker cure time. I've cast a lot of spare taillight lenses for my ever growing fleet of Johan and Revell '62 Darts, Furys and Desotos using this method. For priming, I'm using Mr. Surfacer 1000 White. This is fantastic. It lays down super smooth and doesn't obliterate delicate details like scripts and emblems. Also, its 100% opaque with no bleed-through from colored styrene (this particular kit is molded in typical Johan red styrene which bleeds like a stuck pig) and makes a great finish coat if one plans on modeling a white car. It polishes out glass-smooth with a high gloss. I also de-chromed and polished the bumpers, adding some Masterclub resin rivets to the rear bumper, and will refinish them with Alsa Corp.'s Easy Chrome. This is another great product I highly recommend. I'm debating whether to drill out the molded headlights and replace them with clear lenses and chromed buckets.I've got plenty of fiber optic filament of varying diameters to possibly have working lamps and illuminate the instrument panel. I haven't had the time to take pics; but, I'll post them later. Bye the bye, would anyone have a list/chart of exterior (two-tone) and interior color options for 1960 Chryslers/Desotos? I d/l'ed paint chip charts; but, getting info on interior trim/upholstery colors and such is next to impossible.

The Revell kit is a '68.

Past tense. R&R used to make one. The company's been closed since 2014. RMR purchased the masters earlier this year.

You can also use Alumilite Amazing Mold Putty to make a cast of the emblem. I've been using it to make casts of entire grilles and bumpers, placing the mold over broken/damaged ones. Then, I use fiberglass resin applied directly to the backside of the grille/bumper and onto the mold. When the resin hardens, it's a perfect repair with all of the details of the original. I also use this stuff to make one piece molds of taillight lenses by forming the putty around the original, leaving the mounting pin on the back slightly exposed so I can pull the part out with tweezers. I fill the cavity with the resin by injecting it with an industrial syringe with a blunt tip. It certainly beats the hell out of paying 15 bucks for a pair of tiny, "rare", "vintage" chunks of plastic.

Seems like you're not the only one who got stiffed: https://www.bbb.org/us/pa/south-canaan/profile/retail-hobby-supplies/hobby-models-llc-0241-236014649/complaints This outfit is allegedly located in South Canaan, Pa. and also has other "stores" like Model Plane Depot (aircraft kits), Hobby Wheels (model cars & accessories), Red Star Hobbies (Soviet/Russian equipment), Military Model Depot (tanks/afvs) and, prior to Trumpeter sending a C&D letter to stop passing itself off as an authorized Trumpeter distributor, Trumpeter Models. I emailed them to provide a physical address and store phone number because I would never deal with any business which can't prove it really exists. As expected, they never responded. Why feel bad about posting negative comments about any vendor who is engaging in dishonest business practices? This business gave you, and others, the business. If they're bums, they need to be called out.