SfanGoch

Tru-Color paints are excellent. The military colors are a perfect match to FS595 and other standards.

Very cool and informative, Bill. It ain't hard once you try it.

Hmmm....I ordered some stuff from Model Car Mountain, in Churchville, Va., last Friday and received them this past Monday. Also, the USPS has a notification at the top of the tracking page indicating that postal activities were suspended in the Carolinas due to the aftermath of the hurricane, no mention of Florida. If my knowledge of geography is correct, Florida is a pretty far south of the affected areas and no Florida-related USPS service disruption alerts were ever issued. One should get his information straight before making an excuse so full of holes that it resembles Swiss cheese. My advice is to stop patronizing this particular company and order Gravity paints from the original European source. It had even severed all ties to the former U.S. distributor due to issues you guys have noted.

Same thing happens when I load up on Scotch bonnet peppers.

The "Chevelle" script on the header is .00000000000018 mm too shallow. Unacceptable.

A lot of unflattering celebrity info was available in the pre-internet days. For some really sordid stuff, check out "Hollywood Babylon" written by Kenneth Anger in 1959: He also wrote a sequel, "Hollywood Babylon II".

None required. In the event that you came back to this thread and noticed that it was moved, that's the section you'll find it in.

I went to Michaels to get some mold putty and went to check out the kits. The model section was moved from the back, where it formerly occupied an entire aisle, to one of the middle aisles and only fills half of one.There were two car kits: Revell '68 Charger @ $27.99 and the Baja Bronco at the same price. BTW, I noticed that Michaels has only been offering 30% off regular priced item coupons most days lately. Go to Hobby Lobby,Amazon, Staples, Walmart or AC Moore sites and d/l their 40% or more off coupons. Michaels accepts them.: We ACCEPT all competitor coupons, including those digitally generated or printed off the internet from one of the following eligible online retailers’ websites: Acmoore.com, Amazon.com, Athome.com, Benfranklinonline.com, Dollargeneral.com, Familydollar.com, Hobbylobby.com, Joann.com, Officedepot.com, Partycity.com, Staples.com, Target.com, Walmart.com We CANNOT accept competitors’ coupons if: · The coupon has expired; · We have already applied our Price Match Policy to the item in question; · The coupon is for a gift card with purchase; · All standard Michaels coupon exclusions apply. This policy is subject to change without notice.

Funny you should say that. The Edsel was described by one auto writer as, "Looks like a Pontiac sucking on a lemon."

Not the section for this. There's a thread about Gravity Colors in "Car Aftermarket & Resin" Take a number and post your complaints there.

Goulash is great the second, third and fourth time around too. Next time, add some diced potatoes, chick peas and plenty o' curry powder into the leftover goulash. Get some square bread, fill the center with the goulash and you have yourself a beef roti Most excellent, I tell you. You can do the same with stewed chicken, fish and yes........goat meat. All taste good. Calypso sauce optional.

Pretty similar. Might have another "He's So Fine"/"My Sweet Lord"-type plagiarism lawsuit ahead.

Rubbing alcohol or dish washing liquid on a wet kitchen towel will remove the residue. You won't be rolling the dice hoping lighter fluid or other products will FUBAR the finish.

Here are some pics to use as visual references for the steps I indicated. I used a Revell '64 Impala as the demonstration model.

At least, they're cut off fairly neatly. My two cents on how to fix them.Your choice if you want to do it. First thing to do, if necessary, is to clean up and square the edges where the cuts were made. Leave the roof with the jagged cut as is; cut, test fit it to see if tht hoes together cleanly. I would use methylene chloride, like Plastruct Bondene, to reattach the roof sections, starting at the front, carefully aligning the parts. Make sure that there is no visible gap between the cuts and apply the solvent. It evaporates and sets in less time than regular liquid model cements and creates a very strong bond between surfaces. Next, bond the C pillars in place, again paying attention to the alignment with the body. On the underside, apply the solvent on and along the seams on the roof and C pillars. When dry, sand the seams flat. This next step will ensure that the roof will not break off and give you agita. Get a Bondo fiberglass repair kit with the resin and hardener. The included cloth will be too thick for use; so, grab one of those dryer cloths and cut one piece long enough to fit across the width of the roof, about 60-63 mm, and 10 mm wide. Also cut two pieces, 20 mm long by 10 mm wide, to be used on the C pillars. Mix the resin and hardener and, starting with the roof/window frame joint, place the long strip across it, leaving a small amount of overhang on one side. Use a piece of masking tape to secure the overhang onto the roof top. Using a flat piece of plastic, like one of those things found on bread ( great tip, Bill E. ), spread the resin in a thin coat along the cloth strip, making sure that the resin soaks through the material. Do the same with the C pillars, centering the cloth strips on the seam. When the resin is fully hardened, wet sand and/or grind the repaired areas until they are smooth. If you take your time, the repairs will blend in. The seams on the roof top and at the C pillar joints can be wet sanded smooth and any small imperfections filled with CA, coated with Tamiya putty and wet sanded again until the seams are no longer visible. The steps seem more involved than the actual work. You can knock off (pun intended ) both roofs in a couple of hours. I've used this technique on more than a few roofs and the results are worth the effort.

I use a compass needle tip, straight pin or a punch which I ground down to a super fine point to mark the center of styrene round/hex rods. Then, I start drilling a pilot hole with a #80 bit in a pin vise, increasing the bit size as needed. I've`drilled as deep. as 15 mm into a .040" hex rod with a #76 bit. It takes patience; but, it can be accomplished.

Definitely a nice haul. David. If possible, can you take pics of the two Chevys and post them in the Model Building Questions and Answers section? I could offer some advice on reattaching the roofs once I can see the damage.

More Mopar Madness. All three for thirty bucks. Need the guts for my Revell and Johan kits. The Slant 6 from the Belvedere is heading for the '68 Fury NYPD RMP which needs it.

That's the way I see it, Steve. The Bonneville convertible was released first. I was looking at pics of '60 Bonneville/Catalina/Ventura ragtops and I noticed that the rear edge on the Trumpeter convertible is positioned too far back, creating a really short tulip panel. The lip should be in the same location as the bottom of the backlite on the HT. I butchered a '59 Impala convertible top before I found out. I think that an uptop wasn't included in the kit because there's no way that it could've remotely looked or fit correctly because of this discrepancy. Now, I need to research why some Bonnevilles only have three quarter side trim appliques as opposed to the standard four This might fall into the same mystery category as the allegedly custom seatcover pattern found in the Trumpeter ragtop.

Bought these two yesterday This one is pretty much in mint condition, relatively inexpensive and FREE SHIPPING! Of course, I only found it after I rebuilt the tailfin on the salvage project. This would've come in handy casting a new fin. But,what the hey! Now, I can make copes of the firewall and tail light lenses to use in that one. And this I already have one. One can never have too many. I love these early '60s Mopars. At least half of the people who owned cars on my block when I was a kid had early-mid '60s Darts. Furys and Valiants. I made an offer and it was accepted; so, i got this one at a great price as well. Plus, it's still sealed, which means I won't have to fish for replacement parts. Should be receiving both on Friday.

Thanks, Lloyd. Me, I just don't have anything better to do. A lot of guys on the 'net BMW about how "bad" the Trumpeter kit is. I didn't think so when I bought my first '60 Bonneville years ago; and, I still don't today. Sure, there are some inaccuracies; although, they're nothing that couldn't be fixed if one puts the time and effort into it. Hey, even the major car kit manufacturers have been guilty of producing some Grade A garbage. I'll tell you something. This kit is a jewel as far as the drivetrain and other related areas are concerned. I've never seen anything from AMTMPCRellogram which had such accurate underbody detail like this Trumpeter kit. Too bad Trumpeter got out of producing model cars when it did. I believe that, just like its armor, aircraft and ship kits, accuracy and fidelity to the real deal would have improved drastically in future automotive releases.

The only thing on my mind regarding this thread, and the one about the MPC boat, is why they're even in the Car Kits & Reviews section in the first place. Shouldn't they belong in "Everything Else"?

I doesn't get better than that. Those are amazingly detailed.