stitchdup

thanks guys, I think I'll leave them off since it will be supported pretty well by the fenders, especially since theres a lot more side support with the deeper fenders

Thanks guys. I'm hoping one of you might be able to tell me if the grille and rad would have supports similar to the stock 2 that go back to the cowl, or would it just be left freestanding?

I'd rather be seen doing a stupid hand shake thing than be on life support with a ventilator.

https://frontstreet.media/2020/06/17/retired-in-miami-stretching-out-a-1989-porsche-dp-935-long-windshield/

sweet

avoid the revell skips diner nomad, its just a twisted mess

Got a nice rebuilder auburn cord convertible sedan. Unpainted and only missing the top. Should make a nice custom some day

I've used those cheap spray deodrants you get in the pound/dollar shops. spray a load on to the sticky bits and let it sit for a few mins then simply wipe it offwith a lint free rag and give the parts a good wash with dish soap and water. I t will remove/leach out the colour enamel paints. I havent tried it on bare plastic and pretty much all my paint on bodies is auto acrylics. I think it may damage fresh paint (even auto acrylics) so be sure not to use it on new paint.

cool

Been building this for a couple of weeks. It started as a monogram ford coupe but I fancied something different. I made up a new longer frame using the kit crossmembers then gave it a bit of a zee so I could use some motobitz jag rear and mustang 2 type front suspension. The lower front suspension arms both fell apart on me so i used them as a tamplate to build some stronger ones. Since I zee'd the frame I then had to modify the front fenders to suit which also had the benefit of lowering the fenders over the wheels. The wheels are also resin motobitz pieces being 18x8 front and 20x10 rear and i went with the artilery style centres. It was at this point i cut the rear from the body, and added some small wedges above the doors before chopping the top 3mm. For the seat I am using 2 clearly scale pro touyring buckets modified to be more like the modern bench seats from glide. I've made a smoothed 40 ford style dash and will be adding the stock model a gagues to it. The only engine I had available to me when I started this is the hemi from a revell charger kit mounted a little higher than normal to try and hide the scale difference, with a scratchbuilt induction. The metal pipes on the induction are electrical connectors. The box on the back of my inspiration toy was just square but I decided to make the front and rear panels follow the a profile and flow a little better. My next task is to build an interior and floor so I can cut the box sides to fit the fenders and arches. I will be modifying the rear of the box some more once this is done so the irs can be seen since its such a nice piece of kit. This was very nearly a tow truck but I think this idea will be a little more unique

I prefer having something in my hand to read rather than staring at a screen all the time. Besides, does anyone really take their devices out to the garage to follow a guide? id much prefer oily finger prints on a magazine than my computer. It also feels more like value for money having a something physical instaed of digital that can dissappear anytime like like my book reader did. hundreds of books i paid money for gone overnight which dont happen with a real book

its like those markers that you have to pump, i use milk bottle tops and pump a little out of the pens before brushing it on. if its parts you'll be handling a lot leave it till last though, it doesn't like skin oils and will turn grey. You can also get refills for them seperately. I believe your hobby lobby stocks them in the usa. I did this engine block and chassis using the molotowe just straight from the pen. If its resin parts I'd prime them first as some resins dont seem to hold it very well

the molotowe chrome pens are probably your best bet, but i find its better for interior parts. for body chrome i would use bare metal foil

shipping from aus to the uk is still reasonable, but that might be more to do with the exchange rate. It just seems shipping from the us is now an extortion game if ebay is involved. I struggle to find the parts i want in the uk

this was from the usa to uk on ebay, it was 20 quid last time i ordered. i can get a real car wheel sent for less

When you write your post, look under the message box and you will see a area to drag or attach your pics to next the paperclip. Just drag the pic into the box from whatever folder you have it in and it will br hosted on the mcm board.

theres a massive backlog of post in most countries just now with so many borders closed. it will turn up but there are loads of delays especially if it has to go through customs

75 quid shipping on a set of 4 resin wheels or 65 to ship one kit

now i know what to do with my squashed 959 and some tamiya bug leftovers

When i first got back into building again, one of my first purchases was 6x esci ford transit for £40. I kept one and stuck the rest on ebay and got an average of £100 each which i used to build up my stash. I've got a case of the italeri escorts stashed away so i can do the same thing again. I'd love one of these sierra kits. If your interested in the euro sierras look up topp boss tuning, they stuck a twin turbo cossie v6 in one about 25 years ago and it still looks sweet

I tend to use the yellow or white (never the blue) multipacks of superglue from poundland, usually the packs have 5 smaller bottles but they seem to go pretty far in use but you have to make sure your part is lined up as it sticks fast but with use you will notice it can be removed again for the first 2 or 3 mins but after that its stuck for good. Applying a little more pressure than normal halps it stick hard right away. Also if you look in there, take a look in the make up section as there is packs of velvet nails but really its a selection of flocking. Theres also nail art brushes in the same section that are great for small details. Avoid their plastic clamps though, utter garbage

If the wing was higher it might have been a cossie. They weren't officially imported to north america as far as i know but there are a few on your side of the pond

I can recomend this, it works really well. I've blasted some old stone built houses and they came out brilliant, just needing a little pointing to even up the cement after. Just be sure you tape up all your windows and doors before starting or you'll be finding it for years after

I think the amt part pack has what you're looking for. It has a set each of wide whites and white pin stripe

Sweet, reminds me of the max power mag cars