BigTallDad

Do you have access to a vacu form?

Make sure you use Silly Putty, not Play Doh...Play Doh leaves a residue behind.

Another thing to consider...use a soft rubber eraser to press the BMF into the crevices on an ornament/script.

You had me fooled with your "First model in 50 years" title Excellent job for an old timer (like me)

Consider using small strips of balsa instead of Qtips...much more control. The balsa is porous and will hold lacquer thinner, unlike most wood products.

I agree with the dabbing methods previously described, especially if you use the same Tamiya paint; that will assure a good color match. I'd be reluctant, however, to touch it up with a paint pen...you might open a whole can of worms regarding the chemical compatibility of the paint pen and Tamiya paint as well the possibility (or probability) of the colors, even though they are white, not matching.

Kewl!

Thank you, I just didn't want to barge in... From '61 to '65, the Impalas had three tail lights on each side. The center tail light was actually the back up light, and had a clear center. If you take some off-white paint and put a dab in the middle of the center lens (not a huge deal), the rivet-counters will not deduct points and the rear of the model will be more correct. https://www.google.com/search?q=62+impala+ss+tail+lights&rlz=1C1AVNG_enUS698US698&espv=2&tbm=isch&imgil=CZLCxSkdmht5UM%3A%3Bw35LQpjiDn8foM%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.pinterest.com%252Fpin%252F327425835386039021%252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=CZLCxSkdmht5UM%3A%2Cw35LQpjiDn8foM%2C_&usg=__siRuZejCjA3dfSer38hFTlo-_vo%3D&biw=1280&bih=617&dpr=1.5&ved=0ahUKEwiixMrZg_jSAhWC5iYKHTDODd8QyjcIjQE&ei=yrnZWKK3IILNmwGwnLf4DQ#imgrc=wYmz03nx_GD2yM:

Very nice looking, especially the stance. May I make a suggestion?

Another scary thought: after you're gone, your wife sells your kits at the prices you told her you paid.

If they are decals, they're not quite correct. The color inside the "scalloped" area continues to the rear of the car. https://www.google.com/search?q=49+ford+crestliner&rlz=1C1AVNG_enUS698US698&espv=2&tbm=isch&imgil=GN0hxKN2GauCxM%3A%3B0BTQCI2oNI-4OM%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.autoevolution.com%252Fcars%252Fford-crestliner-1949.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=GN0hxKN2GauCxM%3A%2C0BTQCI2oNI-4OM%2C_&usg=__82lI1GdbuqJ39xdlROzTux59PXQ%3D&biw=1280&bih=617&ved=0ahUKEwjSnOu9_u7SAhVEKyYKHWSeAzMQyjcIJQ&ei=XPzUWNL-H8TWmAHkvI6YAw#imgdii=iNbOfGSOWZF6tM:&imgrc=GN0hxKN2GauCxM:

Very nicely done! I especially like the "shop" setting. May I make a suggestion?

I wasn't suggesting you buy it; I was merely stating that it will work on acrylic. I already had some on hand, so I gave it a shot.

"Same Stuff" from Micro Mark works on acrylic...I just did a test and it's very strong. I'm in the process of making a display case for a large (36" long) model of a battleship. I had some scrap acrylic 1/8" plexiglas and played with it; nice firm bond, and easy to work with.

He was as good in live performances as he was on records.

$12.00 per can? That's outrageous! Walmart's primer is thin and costs about a buck a can. A lot of folks (myself included) use it.

What kind of texture? As in floor mats, or non-skid stairs, or vinyl roofs (or is it rooves), carpeting? Be more specific, please. For starters, I'd suggest using the Model Masters white as a base, then overcoating with your color (or is it colour) of choice using acrylic.

I'm nearing completion of the same kit myself. After doing some research, I think Revell messed up a little; they call it a "Standard" coupe but include chrome trim rings for the wheels, radio, heater, whitewalls, oil filter, etc.

I can vouch for that!

Good tips. The next time you apply the liquid electrical tape, use a small piece of teflon tape (for wrapping pipe threads) between the tweezer tips. Tighten the tweezers using a rubber band or whatever; after the liquid tape has set up, remove the rubber band and teflon tape (hardly anything sticks to teflon) and TA DA you have flat surfaces on the inside of the tweezer tips.

Silver wire can be soldered. Wrap the silver wire around the drill bit etc. (as described before), then solder, using a high tin-to-lead-ratio solder, from Rodeo Shock...sorry, Radio Shack...they have become that poor as well as overpriced. An alternative to using "common" solder is the use of silver solder. A much stronger connection, but requiring higher heat.

The "who knows what dead electrical device" must have been very old to be using aluminum wire. Perhaps aluminum tubing might work better. It can be cut using a drill and a dremel. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101796-drilling-distributor-caps/#comment-1422922

Metallic thread might have the texture you're seeking. Jo Ann Fabric carries it.

If it sounds too good to be true...

Are you capable of printing your own decals? If so, grab an image from here, re-scale, and print away. https://www.google.com/search?q=engine+turning&rlz=1C1AVNG_enUS698US698&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=617&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi5g6v48b3SAhVCKCYKHarGBJcQ_AUIBigB