TarheelRick

Really sweet Torino. I love that particular model year of that car; the fastback really made them cool looking.

No, it was the 2.8 and standard cab. I also owned a 2010 Ranger 4.0 super cab, and the S-10 did not fit me very well. I am 6'1".

Very realistic presentation. Really like the expression and stance of the girlfriend. Just wondering about the left hand of the kneeling guy, does that represent a bleeding cut?

Funny you should mention Pioneer. I have one with CD player and four speakers all still in the box. Bought them when Circuit City closed their doors in 2009. I was going to install them in the '83 S-10 I inherited from my Dad. Lost interest in working on the S-10 and finally sold it. Still have the stereo system. Don't need it in my new F-150. Maybe I will pick up something in the future to install it in.

Another hideous Barris "custom". I think the title "customizer extraordinaire" was a serious misnomer. I am glad I had finished my coffee before opening those pictures, it saved my keyboard from a bath.

Yes, it has. One thing our illustrious governor has got right. However, there are still some of them running around, just not as extreme as they used to be.

Just losing the steamroller tires helps the look. But using the NASCAR chassis really brings this build to life. Very nice build. I have one of these in my stash, may have to rethink what I am going to do with it.

An excellent way to keep precious plastic from the recycle bin. Really like the direction this one is going.

$1.39 for an AMT 60 Mercury in 1960, the first kit I ever bought. The first kit I ever had was a 40 Ford Coupe for Christmas 1959 and it cost $1.49, cost more because it had more parts. Testors tube glue was $.10, Pactra, PLA bottle paints were $.15-20. AMT spray cans were $.49/59 depending on color. Haven't bought a kit in a while simply because I am 73 years old and have over 200 unstarted kits on the shelves in my basement. And yes, I do have difficulty paying +$30 for the same product in a slightly different box that I originally paid $1.39 for. Will hopefully be hitting a couple of shows this month and unloading a few of the "why did I buy this kit anyway".

I don't know why you would want to clear it; it looks like a factory paint job now. I believe the wax would probably cause more problems than you would want to deal with. Of course, I am just guessing. Some others with much more experience can give you a better response.

Very clean well-built truck. Exceptionally clean paint work. I like it.

Beautiful work on that T-Bird. Really has the feel of land-speed.

Considering the problems you encountered, this is one fine looking build. Really like the decals, I presume you made them yourself.

Oh my, that little critter sure does look nasty. Really enjoying watching this. Will probably "borrow" some of your ideas when I get to my Monza.

Some very nice builds. Part of NASCAR history that has been pretty much forgotten. From the pictures of the 1:1's it appears they had trouble staying upright.

That thought has crossed my mind, just not sure how much I trust my eyesight and unsteadiness of hand.

I really do not want to read through all 26 pages of this topic. But I seem to remember a warning that certain strippers will also remove body putty. I just discovered a Motorworks (Revell) Mustang Turbo-coupe parts box and the body has had the door lines filled with putty. Do not know what I had in mind when I did that. Back to main question, which of the strippers will remove putty? It is the older version of white putty, not Tamiya.

Agree 110%. I took a couple of photography classes way back when I was in college, all we shot was black and white. Up until I got assigned to Korea in 1979, every base I had been at had a hobby photography room, so I had ample opportunity to practice. Never quite reached the level I was looking for, but still enjoyed the creative processes.

Just wondering if this kit has the heavy molding line that comes across from the C-pillar. The original '64 kit I have had a monster molding mark there; just guessing I am going to say .010 maybe 020. That one took a bunch of sanding.

Just watching your detail work so far and realizing what must be left with the c/f decals, I have already made an appointment with my mental health professional. I grew up too used to AMT simplicity and liked it. Now I have done a couple of intricate builds and a few scratchbuild projects, but nothing as intricate as this one. Keep me entertained with your abilities and I will continue to drool in my Sippy cup while watching.

Beautiful Torino Cobra. Really ike the color and overall build. Is that a custom grille?

I know the original OP is looking for an enamel Brandywine, but I seem to think some of the acrylic craft paints have one they label as Brandywine. I thought I had one, but the ones I have are different wine shades. These craft acrylic paints are fairly easy to use, thinned with window cleaner (normally Windex w/o ammonia) and sprayed in light coats to slowly build up the color. This racer was shot using craft colors. I first sprayed a purple band around the car, then put a piece of thin tape around it to define the separation color band I wanted. I taped off the rest of the car shot the white, when it had dried for a few days, I taped it again and shot the yellow. The original purple band was about 1/2 inch wide, you will notice the white and yellow covered it very well.

All I can find is the Olds are listed as a Delta 88's.

Looks like it could get the job done. Very nice build, I am a sucker for the old-style modified coupes. Got my first introduction to them back in '63 at Bowman Gray Stadium with Shorty York, Glenn Wood, and the likes.

That is pretty much the way I do it and I have been building models since 1959. The original post seemed to imply they were wanting no chrome, so the process would be to strip it and paint it whatever color you wanted.