TarheelRick

Yes, it has. One thing our illustrious governor has got right. However, there are still some of them running around, just not as extreme as they used to be.

Just losing the steamroller tires helps the look. But using the NASCAR chassis really brings this build to life. Very nice build. I have one of these in my stash, may have to rethink what I am going to do with it.

An excellent way to keep precious plastic from the recycle bin. Really like the direction this one is going.

$1.39 for an AMT 60 Mercury in 1960, the first kit I ever bought. The first kit I ever had was a 40 Ford Coupe for Christmas 1959 and it cost $1.49, cost more because it had more parts. Testors tube glue was $.10, Pactra, PLA bottle paints were $.15-20. AMT spray cans were $.49/59 depending on color. Haven't bought a kit in a while simply because I am 73 years old and have over 200 unstarted kits on the shelves in my basement. And yes, I do have difficulty paying +$30 for the same product in a slightly different box that I originally paid $1.39 for. Will hopefully be hitting a couple of shows this month and unloading a few of the "why did I buy this kit anyway".

I don't know why you would want to clear it; it looks like a factory paint job now. I believe the wax would probably cause more problems than you would want to deal with. Of course, I am just guessing. Some others with much more experience can give you a better response.

Very clean well-built truck. Exceptionally clean paint work. I like it.

Beautiful work on that T-Bird. Really has the feel of land-speed.

Considering the problems you encountered, this is one fine looking build. Really like the decals, I presume you made them yourself.

Oh my, that little critter sure does look nasty. Really enjoying watching this. Will probably "borrow" some of your ideas when I get to my Monza.

Some very nice builds. Part of NASCAR history that has been pretty much forgotten. From the pictures of the 1:1's it appears they had trouble staying upright.

That thought has crossed my mind, just not sure how much I trust my eyesight and unsteadiness of hand.

I really do not want to read through all 26 pages of this topic. But I seem to remember a warning that certain strippers will also remove body putty. I just discovered a Motorworks (Revell) Mustang Turbo-coupe parts box and the body has had the door lines filled with putty. Do not know what I had in mind when I did that. Back to main question, which of the strippers will remove putty? It is the older version of white putty, not Tamiya.

Agree 110%. I took a couple of photography classes way back when I was in college, all we shot was black and white. Up until I got assigned to Korea in 1979, every base I had been at had a hobby photography room, so I had ample opportunity to practice. Never quite reached the level I was looking for, but still enjoyed the creative processes.

Just wondering if this kit has the heavy molding line that comes across from the C-pillar. The original '64 kit I have had a monster molding mark there; just guessing I am going to say .010 maybe 020. That one took a bunch of sanding.

Just watching your detail work so far and realizing what must be left with the c/f decals, I have already made an appointment with my mental health professional. I grew up too used to AMT simplicity and liked it. Now I have done a couple of intricate builds and a few scratchbuild projects, but nothing as intricate as this one. Keep me entertained with your abilities and I will continue to drool in my Sippy cup while watching.

Beautiful Torino Cobra. Really ike the color and overall build. Is that a custom grille?

I know the original OP is looking for an enamel Brandywine, but I seem to think some of the acrylic craft paints have one they label as Brandywine. I thought I had one, but the ones I have are different wine shades. These craft acrylic paints are fairly easy to use, thinned with window cleaner (normally Windex w/o ammonia) and sprayed in light coats to slowly build up the color. This racer was shot using craft colors. I first sprayed a purple band around the car, then put a piece of thin tape around it to define the separation color band I wanted. I taped off the rest of the car shot the white, when it had dried for a few days, I taped it again and shot the yellow. The original purple band was about 1/2 inch wide, you will notice the white and yellow covered it very well.

All I can find is the Olds are listed as a Delta 88's.

Looks like it could get the job done. Very nice build, I am a sucker for the old-style modified coupes. Got my first introduction to them back in '63 at Bowman Gray Stadium with Shorty York, Glenn Wood, and the likes.

That is pretty much the way I do it and I have been building models since 1959. The original post seemed to imply they were wanting no chrome, so the process would be to strip it and paint it whatever color you wanted.

Appreciate all the advice. It is not so much a sentimental thing for this particular kit, but the fact it is an original kit with working headlights and taillights and I think deserves restoration. I have the '64 Galaxie in the drag combo kit. My thoughts right now are to use that particular body with the custom pieces from the original kit. I want to build the original '64 as a S/S or FX drag car.

Just looked through my custom version and the only piece I saw that even resembles that one is called the horn driver and is part #9. Not sure what a horn driver is, but that is what they call it.

True story (not a war story). Several years back, around 2009, I was at a HL in Spartanburg, SC. At the time I had promised my wife I would not buy any more kits; I would just go look and drool. When we walked into the store there was a table out front with some clearance items on it. Right in the middle was a Monogram Big Deuce marked .........drum roll $11. Snatch, told the wife its real value, went and paid for it immediately. That kit had been on the shelf a couple weeks before for $79.99. I sold it a couple of years ago for $75.00

Really like the looks of those old land-speed racers. Very nice build.

Well, I guess my optic magnifier does not lie. There is definite crazing visible in the plastic. So, I guess my next option is to grab a tub of water, some 600 grit, put some tunes on the tape player, and set down for some tedious hours of sanding around all that chrome and in and out of those beautiful curves and coves. I believe a good coat of sandable primer will probably cure most of the problems, but the paint is a bit heave next to some of the projected area of the body and will require some careful sanding.