Chariots of Fire

If you don't want to do actual manufacturer's paint, try to find a reasonable color in Duplicolor. I don't like Rustoleum for painting models because it is too thick and the spray is too concentrated. It does not dry as well either. Take a copy of the paint chips to an auto parts store and see if you can get close to one of the yellows you want. Just MHO!

If I can get photos of the color scheme of one that was used locally I would. Had a Holmes 600 wrecker body. It was blue and white but I can't remember exactly how the paint was laid out. Maybe some day I will run across one for reference.

Gold Comet was one version and it had that logo outside the cab on the hood.

Thanks, Mike. Two new builds are in my head but not on the workbench right now. Going to take a short break from building just to let this one cool off, so to speak. One will be a '46 Reo Gold Comet and the other one will be a Pierce Enforcer engine for Jacksonville, Florida.

Super nice, Dave!!

All of the final details and such have been added to the build and it is done as of today. Electronic speakers on front bumper, LED's under the headlights, directional lights on the cowl, hardhats, axe, McLeod tool on top of the hose body and shovels next to the tank. The gold and black rectangle next to the 127 on the rear is a dedication plaque that was put on the truck at the time it was rehabbed in 2013.

That's one of the second generation ones. It's a good casting but is quite brittle. Don't drop it! This was built using one of those castings. The 97 just above the pump panel tells you the year I built it. (1997)

I sort of have a plan for any build but a lot of it is the way something might be made on an assembly line. Engine and chassis first, next the cab and finally the body and details. After so many scratch building projects it sort of is a repeat of what has been done before. Many thanks for all of the kind comments. I'll post the final photos in the display section once the little missing details are completed. Yes it is a colorful model! I didn't plan it that way, just the way the real one is. There's even a touch of green wiring on the pump engine but you really have to look to find it!

We are closing in on the last few details that will finish this build. Almost ready to fight some fire! Siren is turned aluminum. Lettering is taken from photos of the real truck, re-created on my computer, downsized and printed on the ALPS printer. The hose is sewing elastic that was stained with some acrylic tan watered down. Couplings are aluminum tubing. so are the gate valve handles. Still to go are two stutter horns for the front bumper, some led lights, hand tools and the license plates.

Maybe we should quit while we are ahead!

Glad to help out, Mike. Hope you find good size for the winch. The wire I used was 0.015". I'd recommend going with a slightly larger diameter, say 0.018" which is 0.46mm diameter.

Tom: Just a quick suggestion for the winch cable. Michaels craft store has some great mylar coated silver stranded bead wire that looks just like winch cable. I used some on my breaker model. I think they might have a larger size for use on your rig.

You want fries with that???

That last artwork is excellent! How will you finalize it?

Nicely done! It's amazing what the Molotow chrome does. One of the best modeling materials to come our way in a long time. Thanks for sharing!

You are going to be one busy bee!!

Right on both accounts. The step can fold up out of the way. The spanners are for smaller hose sizes such as 1-1/2" and 2-1/2". Large diameter feeder hoses typically have quick connect couplings these days known as Storz couplings. European design that found its way to the US back in the 60's. Italeri had some European fire apparatus appliances and couplings in a nice little kit years ago. Probably can be found at model show vendor's tables at reasonable prices.

That's all scratch built based on photos and a few measurements of the actual piece. And yes we are on the other side of the hump but not exactly coasting yet.

Italeri used to make a detailing kit with those sorts of things. Unfortunately they were not very good. For landscaping you need rakes, long handle pointed shovels, brooms, trimmers, a couple of baskets for trimmings, a small lawnmower, all kinds of goodies. Some can be scratch built. Others not so easy. Try the websites that cater to G Guage railroad equipment. They have a good supply you could look through. G Guage is the same as 1/24 so it wouldn't be far off for scale. Only about 4%.

Here we go with some detailing. With the body complete now it's on to the stuff that makes the truck work. This rig was updated a few years ago with a new poly tank, foam system and new pump. While these are certainly not in keeping with the age of the IH, it works. These rigs get heavy use from time to time and then sit idle for long periods of time, being taken out only to keep things working properly. So we have a Honda V-twin engine powering a Hale centrifugal pump. Class A foam is now a routine feature for fighting natural cover fires. It acts as a wetting agent, reducing the amount of water it takes to put the fire out. Poly tanks also are a great feature in that they reduce weight and don't rust out. So here is where we are today. Control Panel and water and foam covers on top of the tank Pump on the rear step with just the beginning of all of the plumbing done. The winch cable is now secure with a clasp and hook. New NFPA regulations require all firefighters to be seated with responding to an alarm. They obviously never rode a brushbreaker! But the crew can at least enjoy the ride getting there. The Honda engine and Hale pump. And the back side. The pipe ends will eventually have other plumbing attached. We are just not there yet.

I say AMEN to that! It all takes time!

Unless it's a real custom I'd go with a basic black body or maybe a dark gray. Lots of images of one ton dumps on line to choose from.

Now you're clickin'! It's good to see some Imagineering at work! I was checking out your hood and hinges. Can I make a suggestion??? Either you are going to have to sand down the edge of the hood at the cowl OR you are going to have to take a wedge out of each side at the hinges to bring the hood in a bit. It looks to me like there is a bit of overhang at the cowl. Is there some overhang or is it just the way I'm looking at it?

That's by far the best weathering job I have ever seen! Not bad scratch building either! By chance did you omit the steps on the back of the fenders for cab entry? Just wondering how the driver gets in.