absmiami
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Everything posted by absmiami
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Photo 2 above - phone swallowed the text [dog ate the homework ]. Comparing my Miller 122 body to the Etzell / Bradford 91 front dr … -
Photo 1 - the white metal Miller kit has a nice 2 Piece frame …. The resin kit behind is Harold’s 91 fr Dr Miller - if my recollection is correct - it was mastered years ago by Etzell but never kitted - Harold may have mastered the detail parts - anyway - it’s first rate …. photo 2. - the Miller 91 fr dr body compared to my 122 body / frame … photo 3. - comparison of Etzell’s great Miller 91 engine Casting with my 122 crankcase and Cyl heads - Etzell’s eng was 25th scale vs my 24th sc eng castings - not much difference … I’ve split and made two separate cyl head castings - so you can see the gap /opening - which is about 3/4 inch scale …
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The white metal Miller 91 fr Dr kit In question …. Note the rubber Tires tried their best to eat right through the bottom Of the foam packaging - yup I’ve had it a while - but the foam peels off the tires with no damage …
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We’ll done
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The Miller you are referring to is the 24th scale miller 91 fr Dr produced [still] by sefinecast.co.um. curbside - but they were / are the only craft kit makers I can think of that made Indy kits in 24th scale - on this side of the pond - we’ve always had 25th scale Indy resin kits …. You might not be familiar with the late Chris Etzell’s excellent 25th scale Indy kits - produced 25 - 30 years ago …. And some others by Bill Jorgenson and later - Gary Doucette …. not to mention current EBay offerings by Pennsylvania resin castor Silvercitymodels … [also very good]. Which is why I apologized at the top of this thread for persisting in creating a 24th sc Indy Miller … hope this adequately confuses things …
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Using Scale Hardware bolts too - but I’m running low on my favorites and restocks nowhere on the Horizon - but ill reach out to the guy who created the business - but then sold it - to get his thoughts …
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Alrighty then - more pichers - Evergreen strip for some flanges - the bolts on the chassis are sourced from RB Motion, Master Club, AnyZ, whatever seems to look right - that I’ve got in my stash … the cross brace w the flanges serves as a top mount for the friction shocks …
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Well I do have a front drive T ….
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OPTIVISOR !
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Keep a close eye on that shirt, Charlie !
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The Indy Millers used friction shocks front and back - I’m figuring out how to fabricate the angled casting used by Miller to link the bottom two shock leaves to the leaf spring - bits and pieces of Evergreen …
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The mount for the fr leaf spring is made fr Evergreen angle stock and bar - and a short section of plastic shrink tube - once everything was carved up and glued to the chassis leg - the bolts were added - AnyZ - and Master Club …
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Very nice
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A concession to scale - the front shocks are glued to the front of the chassis legs - so I’ve added small tabs to grasp the ends …
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Over the years I’ve photographed a number of 91s and 122s. The first shot shows how the front of the shock attaches to the frame - the second photo shows the shock mount that holds the trailing end of the front leaf spring …. Going here next
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All these additions are made with Evergreen strip .20 and .15 - and Tamiya liquid glue ..
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The forward section of the chassis is exposed and I’ve got to add some parts to correct scale width and for strength - I think the chassis longerons (think that’s they’re called) are a bit too wide on the Etzel chassis - but mine are too narrow …
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- harry miller
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This shot compares the Etzel 25th scale Miller 91 chassis casting to my 24th 122 chassis master - the main difference is the chassis length - the difference in width is minimal …
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The front engine mount is a cradle that was used for the next 40 years by Miller and then by Fred Offenhauser - I’m attaching it with some bolts which is spec - and will be secure … the Miller race cars site has a wealth of photos - found one of the crank case cover - showing the fins and bolt pattern …
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The engine bulkhead was a complex part to make. The shape is dictated by the shape of the supercharger, which was attached to the back of the cylinder head …
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Gracias the body casting has some thin film to remove in some openings - the film is from thin plastic - this helps the caster get a clean casting and allows the mold to be opened without tearing the rubber…
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A few more of the master parts and a test shot / casting of the body and chassis …
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