Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

absmiami

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,593

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by absmiami

  1. absmiami
    Turning the ring requires a turned radius on both front and back of the alu bar. Which is tricky - what’s your method? You’ve made yourself a cutting tool with the required radius - or what ??
  2. absmiami
    Great stuff - the early scratch builders often built in 14th and 15th scale - I think Wingove preferred 15th ...
  3. absmiami
    You might need to contact your lawyer. The new Spring Micro Mark catalog features this item on page 59 ... Just sayin’.
  4. absmiami
    Oh. It works very well ... have a look at this brief case - it’s an old family item that I shrunk to the size of a business card case ... just dial in the scale and hit the “shrink” button.
  5. absmiami
    Gracias ... Don’t drop the ideas that you have picked up - they’re hard to find on the floor ...
  6. absmiami
    So. Does this mean that I have to return the Micro Mark Shrink Ray that my wife bought me for Xmas two years ago ?
  7. absmiami
    The plug distributor is “pegged” w a brass rod and sleeve - so it won’t break off when I install and bend the plug wires ... the oil lines are - at the moment - .032 solder - but the scale lines look to be closed to one inch - so I’ll probably replace these - time to make The roll bar and It’s base - unique to the 29 - the bar attaches to the leading edge of the cam boxes - with braces running back into the carb manifold - an arrangement that Chapman abandoned with succeeding open wheelers - he had lots of ideas - they weren’t all winners ... most of course were ...
  8. absmiami
    Well. McLaren has just given us a good reason to watch the Monaco Grand Prix next week ... the valve covers have plug wire looms - 3 each side - evergreen L shaped strip. - their smallest is .060 x .060 - but we’ve got files ... so. ... these are about .035 x .035 - closer to scale ...
  9. absmiami
    Some more work on the engine - mite use solder for the exhaust pipes - it’s the easy way out - but the bends will be very hard to execute in brass or nickel - even with heat treatment ... and the collectors in the AMT kit are actually quite good - so I think I’ll use them ...
  10. absmiami
    Size and shape are in line with Clidinst’s great drawings ...
  11. absmiami
    Once the boxes are done I’ll add some of the rivets and the openings for the fuel bags and then measure, cut, and fix the bulkheads and the floor - at that point this will start to make some sense ...
  12. absmiami
    The monocoque is riveted together from folded sheet metal - this is visible in sheet metal folds or extensions seen clearly on the Indy Museum resto videos for the 29 .... this feature is added to the chassis boxes with strips of .040 and .060 that are glued on with a support strip - which is then sanded away once the bond is set ...
  13. absmiami
    Each box has a channel made from Evergreen L shape strip that bends inward at the mid point of each box - the kink in the boxes is what distinguishes the 25 and 29 from the 32 and 33 ... the channel houses the water and oil lines plus the brake line and the wiring ...this is one of the features of Lotus kits that usually is missed -
  14. absmiami
    Making the left hand chassis box - trying to correct some build errors on the right side - and trying to match left and right - which will be critical for bulkhead location - engine mounts - etc
  15. absmiami
    This post suggests thaT I mite be somehow scattered or unfocused... I resemble that remark ...
  16. absmiami
    Whilst adding the studs to the top of the engine block - I decided to remove the valve covers - making them easier to finish - probably Alclad - or maybe try a spray of Molotow- Used the razor saw that is super thin - so only a sliver of material is hacked off ...
  17. absmiami
    Maybe white metal ?
  18. absmiami
    Rich. If any of your COVID symptoms persist, I’m prescribing another Porsche build ... very nice
  19. absmiami
    The chassis tapers out to the instrument panel bracket location and then runs back to the rear suspension bulkhead - sheets of .250 and .060 by .250 make chassis horns that are 7.5 scale inches wide - which is about what you need - left and right. I can date the age of the evergreen package by the price. The one that’s pictured cost 1.49 - at a local hobby store - probably Orange Blossom Hobbies - back when - 1985 ??
  20. absmiami
    The paper outline was cut from one of the Clidinst drawings - Road & Track published drawings in 1962 of the Lotus 25 profile but the 29 monocoque was a little wider and deeper. And I’m pretty certain that Clidinst got it right ... I’m doing this first one with Evergreen plastic - and the trusty xacto saw and mitre box
  21. absmiami
    Well it’s May - so what better month to make the Lotus 29 monocoque. These are scr grabs fr one of the Indy Museum restoration videos.
  22. absmiami
    It’s too visible to leave off - so I performed some razor saw surgery on the block casting and added the feature with some strips of evergreen strip and bar ... nuts will be glued to each of the 4 posts ...
  23. absmiami
    The additional row of bolts is seen on this screen grab from one of the Indy Museum Gurney restoration videos ...
  24. absmiami
    One large difference between the 289 Shelby engine and the Fairlane 255 that I’m making is an additional row of studs and bolts - 4 left and 4 right - on the edge of the engine block - Ford beefed up the block to handle the horsepower needed on a mid sixties Indy engine... this is the engine casting without the needed changes ...
  25. absmiami
    The features on the front engine cover are complex in scale - I’ve saved somE build time by “borrowing” some parts from the AMT 29 kit and the crank shaft balance wheel from a different Mad Mike engine print - the FORD DOHC Indy engine.
×
×
  • Create New...