absmiami

Every so often the modeling gods smile upon us ... when I made the frame and glued on the susp arm brackets I was not too sure that the model would have the correct stance. But two years later the wheels are on and the stance is just right ... sitting on the scale plans - the wheelbase is about one scale inch too long and the front wheels are a little too wide - but the fronts are supposed to be wider than the backs - and the main thing is that the stance is right.... still need to make the rear sway bar ...

Rear leaf spring. 3 strips of nickel bar soldered together ... now it’s time to pin the fr suspension back together to see how the mark 9 sits ....

Sir Stirling Moss has passed away he raced this car in some vintage events years ago - Rest In Peace Thinking again about starting a build of his Rob Walker Lotus 18 - and/or his privateer Cooper ..... Thanks Reverand Davis .... which merits do you have ? Do you have both maseratis ? Now to the rear leaf spring. Same assembly and material as the front - but it is slightly shorter ...

No worry. The plunger length will be adjusted during assembly - the eyes are made as per the eyes for the shift linkage ... the shocks will be finished in black ... has anyone tried the oil based sharpies yet ??

Time to make the rear shocks ... made from a short length of alu tube - 16th - with plastic plugs at either end - drilled for .019 nickel rod for the shock mount eyes and the plunger ...

2 things The susp arms wh metal castings retain the sink marks fr the merit injection moldings . So I punched out a couple of .010 filler discs and glued them into the recesses thing 2. The susp arms have shock mounts welded onto the forward members. So I made the mounts from two pieces of evergreen square bar - filed, drilled for bolt holes, sanded, then glued to the arms ...

Thanks gramps. But have no fear. The front and rear panels will both hinge the only stuff that will be hidden will be the pedals under the fuel tank but I do plan to make a couple of panels off/chassis only cars how about a vanwall? And maybe a lotus 18? the fuel pump is mechanical and is driven off of the back of the transaxle. Yes - the fuel line leaves the tank, passes the engine, goes all the way back to the pump, and then Returns to the carb. Made from .093 evergreen tube, sm dia alu tube, and some discs punched from .010 and .015 evergreen strip. The oil tank that I made way back on page 2(?) from renshape will sit right behind the pump

Craft hobby craft beer

The bottle is from a white metal stash from the deepest recesses of my accessory drawer. Thought I would never use it. It was almos the exact size - within .020 In diameter

Working on the fire bottle that sits in front of the seat the restored car has an Amerex extinguisher the bottle is for sale - with everything else - on eBay so I printed the image and ran some decal paper thru my printer and brushed some Tamiya clear over the image. - it’s low res but it will look good on the bottle the handle is some nickel silver bar - folded over and bent to shape

Working on the fire bottle that sits in front of the seat the restored car has an Amerex extinguisher the bottle is for sale - with everything else - on eBay so I printed the image and ran some decal paper thru my printer and brushed some Tamiya clear over the image. - it’s low res but it will look good on the bottle the handle is some nickel silver bar - folded over and bent to shape

As the frame members converge- there is barely enough room for the chain drive and rear brake - which hugs the right side of the transaxle . The mark 9 Cooper was one of the first race cars to rely on a single central mounted brake disc. Made from 16th aluminum- cut, filed and sanded and if you look carefully - there is a brake caliper made from some bits of evergreen plastic bar

the transaxle squeezes into the frame the half shafts will run thru the frame and the transaxle. The tube is used at this stage as a guide

Some more mock up shots to check alignment of the uprights

Have to start by correcting an error that I made two years ago plugging a bolt hole in one of the rear uprights - and then drilling a new hole - the new hole hopefully not crooked... the new hole does the trick - as the plastic tube Guide now passes through the upright parallel to the trailing suspension arm ... the susp arms are white metal - from the herb seeks kit ... as per the front susp ...

Imagine Miami with the clubs closed ....

Very very klean ..... just thinking about Ireland with pubs closed ....

Now back to the rear suspension - which I had begun to work on over two years ago - somewhere on page 3 ...

And a shock absorber - made from 16th alu tube with a nickel plunger

The section of the frame that sites the leaf spring gets two tabs that site the sway bar on top of the spring - liquid glued

In the engine bay. The right side brace interferes with the linkage to the fear box i noticed that at least some of these cars were made without the brace - so out it comes ....

Department of Corrections the frame cross member in the foot well is in the wrong place - too close to the location of the pedals - sure to break some ankles if the cooper hit something... so I removed it with a small cutting burr and liquid glued its replacement about a quarter inch farther back now I can make and locate the pedals ...

Some more ...

And thanks gramps ... previous photo run through the BeCasso app ...

And thanks gramps ...