Oldcarfan27

Ditto! Restoration is more fun than starting with brand new for me. It's like finding old treasure and bringing it back to life.

Snake, How does the Krylon foil compare in sheen to Molotow? As reflective or no?

Can you post pics of the interior? I want to read the mileage on the odometer.

See, this kit CAN be made to look good! A lot of builders write this off as a bad, worn out kit. But in the right hands, it can shine!!!! Congrats on the great job.

This one reminds me of an exact Olds bomb that my friend had acquired from a kit show way back in the 90s. I was jealous he found it first. By the time I bought his collection a few years later, he had sadly tried unsuccessfully to take it apart - all to no avail. To this day, I only have a few of the decrepit pieces he had kept and the memories of the one that got away. ?

I'm glad you posted pics of a REAL Tbird, but when are you going to show us the model! Seriously, that car looks amazing!!!!

Why? I'd like to know.

Well said! ??

Scott, picture this... A phantom 71 Daytona, with aero nose and giant wing! But shorten the front, or that beak will be gi-normus.

Perfect custom fodder!

Scott, if it were an original annual, it would be worth saving. Since it's just a common issue, I say "parts or custom" How about a junkyard diorama?

I minimize that problem by gluing many of the subassemblies together before painting them (engine, chassis, suspension, body parts, etc. That way I can keep rebuilding and separating the major components as I build, so they don't change or move around. Plus I don't have to worry about those parts coming apart later from incompatibility with glue/paint. I always dry build many times while I'm working and I try to find or make locking points for the major parts so they have a positive location to fit into. That way everything fits BEFORE I paint anything. Less chance of misaligned parts later on.

Thought of another peeve of mine, but it probably doesn't bother other people, because I see it on real cars too. Factory original engine compartments are not all glossy paint! Look under the hood of original, unrestored factory built cars. Very little, to no glossy paint - most of it is flat, eggshell, satin or semi-gloss finish. In a scale model the gloss finish detracts, and makes the compartment too reflective - resulting in an out of scale look. In 1:1 size, it just looks custom or like somebody sprayed Armor All on everything! Oh, and OEM used minimal chrome (if at all) under the hood. And they NEVER installed chrome alternators, carburetors, fuel pumps, brake boosters or headers from the factory either! But it probably only bothers me, because I see it a LOT!

I know you do, I admire you for saving old builds. You've found a way to peacefully fill up your shelves with cars. I wish my OCD would let me do that!

Agreed! When I acquire a builtup and it has a nice paint job but intact mold lines, I can't stand it, I have to strip it and start all over. Such a waste, but it needs to be done.

Sometimes, I feel the same way! Building can be such hard work. ? But at least he looks comfortable.

Can't believe no one has brought up the Mack from "Convoy". Plus other trucks from the movie. How 'bout Pigpen? BTW, Smokey and the Bandit 1 was a Kenworth, not a Pete.

Bump. Anybody got any new "Bombs" to share?

I guess they have professional "whack jobs" building Legos, because those people get paid quite a bit for designing subjects using said bricks. Ever seen the stuff at Legoland? Amazing! Legos are a great hobby, my son has become a master at creating unique subjects with them. But, I can't get over the rough edges and the inconsistent scales. I guess I'm too OCD about scale and details. That's the modeller part of me. ?

And they think modellers are "wackjobs"!

I guess you're right. If somebody has a pastime that keeps them sane and contented while having to deal with the stresses of everyday life - They're looked upon as some poor, misdirected fool. I guess video games and social media are the only acceptable hobbies in this day and age. But where's the sense of accomplishment in that?

When I first sprayed it, it went on great, flowed out nice and brought out the deep color of the base coat. But it would never harden and stayed tacky forever. I tried it on three cars. First time I thought I didn't shake it enough. Second time I thought it was because of the outside temperature and humidity. Third time I thought it was a bad can. All to no avail, same result every time. As far as the surface getting irregular - if you call dust getting stuck in the finish, then yes it changed! BTW, I sprayed Krylon Lacquer on top of Krylon Grey primer, Dupli-Color metallic blue automotive touch up paint and all of this on a reissued soft grey plastic AMT 69 Riviera. Paint dried perfectly within a half an hour and was ready to polish within a couple of days. It's my go to paint now! That and it's a big can for less than $6. Compared to Dupli-Color's small cans for $10.50 (whew?) Krylon is a bargain. Hope it works for you too.

Don't knock Mr. Gustavson as a one off loner, he's been a big spokesman and promoter for the hobby for 40 years! He gets the word out there that building model cars is a valid, legitimate pastime. And he puts a LOT of serious thought and talent into building realistic miniatures. I don't understand why the public can validate and appreciate that military and aircraft modelers are serious hobbyists, while their perception is that automotive builders are just overgrown, socially secluded kids. We need to have more serious builders like Juha Airio and our own Steve Guthmiller out there promoting and showing the general population how realistic these "toys" can look! Don't be shy guys, just put your best foot forward.

How do you see past the hood to park the thing?

Hasegawa has done just that by calling their Cadillac kit a "type C", and Impala a "type I", Bonneville a "type P". Simple as that.