NOBLNG

Fabulous job on this one Harry!? An thanks for the lighting tips.

Nicely done!?

Be careful using that stuff!? Static electricity can cause the accent to leap off the applicator onto your model. I have also had the applicator belch a large drop of accent, so I always try to bleed some excess out of the applicator. Even better…I havestarted using a “glue looper” for thin CA to apply it. You could also make some accent by watering down some black acrylic paint. That would not harm the enamel paint. Good luck.

I think that was it. This one is in the ‘37 Ford Sedan kit. They are 1/24 scale so the OD of the wheel is .671”.

I cast these ones, but I’m not 100% sure what kit the original was from. Possibly the Revell ‘37 Ford Coupe Street Rod? I know I don’t have any Oldsmobile kits.

Well the dabs of clear worked!? I did get some very minor bleed under the tape in some spots. I think I can carefully sand those back down to the white layer before clearing it. There are some ridges where the tape edge was. Should I try sanding them down before clear? I’m thinking it might be best to put one coat of clear on and then knock them down level before more clear?

I did put a tiny drop of clear where the tape crossed the gap. I thought about slitting the tape and filling the cut with liquid mask. I think that would work also. I brushed a little clear around those points also. My first colour coat I just misted on, and gradually went heavier. I want to give it one or two more coats and we’ll see how it turns out. Thanks, Greg.

I am painting some stripes on a Cobra and am wondering how you all deal with the hood/trunk/door lines. I am worried that the second colour will weep down the joint line. I didn’t think tucking the tape into the seam was a good idea. I have read about spraying a light coat of clear to seal the tape. I did a test with Tamiya tape both with and without a lacquer over coat. The crispness of the lines were similar so I don’t think I need to seal all the tape. I think I will just dab a bit of clear on each side of the tape unless someone has a better trick? Thanks.

Nicely done. You have a great imagination and the skills to bring it to fruition.?

I had a ‘74 Maverick with a rusty floor pan. I’m sure if I had to hammer the brakes the seat would have flipped over backwards.

She’s a beauty!?

That is a beautiful job! Well done.?

You got her looking real fine.?

Nice lookin’ Pony!?

I found this display cabinet at a thrift shop today for a good price. I managed to squeeze it into the back of the wife’s Jeep and bring it home. It has three glass shelves, and I could easily add four more. I just had to replace the 40 watt bulbs that were in it with some LEDs, since the fixtures are only rated for 25 watts.

Very nicely done! I love the concept.?

Well done. She looks real!?

Really nicely done! The color looks great on it.?

Well done!?

Nice pair! And I like the trailer too. But that extended cab dually is a work of art! It’s tough to extend the cabs on older trucks so they look real, but yours looks like it could have come from the factory.?

Sweet! I think these Firebirds are a better looking car than their Camaro siblings, and you did an excellent job on this one!?

I will use the Tamiya grey for filling scratches, sink marks, and shallow ejection pin marks. Any thicker coat than that I will use the super fine white Milliput.

Roughly how big and how thick are the pieces? Could you leave a “handle” or two on them? The handles could be the attachment point that could glued solid with epoxy or old Testors tube glue. Then after shaping, each piece would require only minimal cleanup to remove the handles.

That is like 10 degrees Celsius, so on the cool side for sure. I haven’t personally painted in that cold, but it should be doable. Try to warm the paint and the model up before spraying. Maybe someone on here has experience painting in colder temps? If in doubt, do some tests to see the results.

Works for me too.?