NOBLNG

The hack jobs I work on make me fret, so I certainly don’t want to catch this obsession! I would definitely wind up in an asylum.? I hope your sanity remains intact Francis!

If you mean this one…no I haven’t. I have built one of these stock ones and found it to be a nice little kit.

For diorama buildings I guess you don’t necessarily need styrene. Any paintable material that can be glued in a suitable thickness should work.

Cool looking project! I wish you luck…I can’t seem to build an OOB model in a month!?

I am also slowly working on an AMT ‘36 Ford coupe. The 1/24th scale frames are exactly the same width and only slightly longer, so I may well swap that one out too.?

The chop looks just right.? Is that just part of a plastic drinking straw for a collector on the headers…good idea!

Interesting story. It’s nice to see rare old vehicles like this that have survived! ?

Thanks for that tutorial Trevor. I have made them by wrapping wire around a drill bit and squashing it slightly in a vise. Yours look a whole lot better.

Hello Jason. No, that stuff is “fibre reinforced plastic” not styrene. What you want is either “Evergreen” or “Plastruct” styrene sheet. Both suppliers also have all sorts of rod, tube, rectangular and other shapes that are great for scratch building model components. You may be able to find industrial suppliers of sheet styrene, but these two will have everything you need and are available through amazon or e-bay if you have no local hobby shop that stocks it. https://evergreenscalemodels.com/ https://www.plastruct.com/

Thanks again Bill. You are correct of course.? I didn’t realize that I had these kits at that point. The two 1/24 kits in my pic above are completely identical and are indeed very similar to the 1/25 scale truck frame.

I have these two that are 1/24 scale that have independent suspension. I haven’t compared frame sizes yet to see if the entire frame is OK size wise. If it is….would it be acceptable in the real world to use the car frame for a street rod type truck? I realize as a fantasy vehicle, anything goes, but I would like to keep things in the realm of possibility. Thanks in advance for any input!? Edit: I also have an early Bronco that I could steal the 289 out of for this ‘37 pickup and put the 4.6 in the Bronco.?

I was thinking maybe a push bar.?

Beautiful work!?

Fine looking Woodie!?I do like that colour on it.

Excellent job. I really like the stance of it! ? What is the tubing on the rear for?

Here is the link:

That is about the stance that I want, so I might just copy what you’ve done….hope ya don’t mind!? Sounds like an easier way I hope. I did take your advice regarding spreading the x frame on this one. I took one completely out of a ‘36 ford coupe and am having a heck of a time getting it back in.?

Bill has a good solution, as long as the pin vise is decent quality. I don’t recall where I got the little chuck on the right, but it runs very true. The set in the middle was a push drill that was very sloppy, so I cut the chuck off of it. It runs fairly true. Both will take down to a #80 (.0135”) drill bit. The cheapo 4 piece set on the left is completely useless, even for hand use, as they all hold the drill bit at a crooked off center angle.

I think it’s a sharp looking truck. So it got a repaint later in life…still looks good!?

Ok, Thanks Bill. I’ll start hacking and see where it takes me. ?

So…If I found the stock frame required too much modification ( I plan to alter the wheelbase anyway)… building a custom one from rectangular tubing would be preferable to using the ‘29 frame correct? Please forgive my ignorance on how things would or should be done in the 1:1 world.

This is my third chop, and I’ve got it mostly done. I haven’t done any channeling, but have done a fair bit of research on here and YT. My main question is…is there any preference for using the stock frame vs swapping it for one from the Revell ‘29 model A? I want to use a newer V8 and auto, so I would likely have to cut most of the x frame out of the original frame anyway. Thoughts one way or the other appreciated! ? Edit: I am currently watching this series on YT. He is doing just about what I want to. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OnSaiEsYrs

Yeah, that plow unit needs a little help. Nice mods.?

I have used the lid plastic as a backer when glueing certain pieces together (usually when scratch building parts). No glue I have will stick to it.

I have tried a used dryer sheet and have had limited success with it. It may reduce the static somewhat, but not necessarily eliminate it.