NOBLNG

You won't be disappointed! My first airbrush was an Iwata Eclipse and although it works great it is a pain to keep clean. The H is my second airbrush and I have not touched the Iwata since getting it.

Have you or anyone else tried the 5620 clear? I can not seem to get it to lay down nicely. If I spray it light at a higher pressure, it will be smooth but not glossy. If I spray it heavier at a lower pressure it will be glossy but not smooth. Light at lower pressure doesn't want to come out of the airbrush at all. It seems to want to coagulate in the airbrush tip and is a real bear to clean out. I'm glad I only used this in my external mix air brush and not my eclipse! PS. I loved the way the Wicked Colors paint went on.

I made these sanding sticks from a 3M Trizact sanding pad, double faced tape and metal strapping. A popsicle stick would work just as well. I like the fact that I can punch any size circle I want. This 3M stuff is nearly 1/8" thick, so it can get in between the ribs on this hood.

If you have a dehydrator you could try putting the cans in there to warm them. I started doing that this winter and it definitely makes a difference.

I use Tamiya acrylics for small items and clean my brushes with lacquer thinner also. I recently bought one of those little badger paint mixers because I was tired of all the lids getting glued onto the bottles from shaking them. It works great! I keep a little 2oz. bottle of thinner on the bench and after mixing the paint I clean the mixer in the thinner too.

I got the Paasche bottles yesterday. The metal-capped ones all look like they have a nut on the inside, so I should be able to transfer the fittings to the Michaels bottles if the need arises. Crappy looking gaskets in the metal lids. I will replace those with Teflon ones.

Nice job on those stripes! It's tedious and nerve wracking trying to get those long skinny decals arrow straight and parallel to the body lines. Looks like you aced it.

This build is also on my to-do list. I will be watching!

List is $7.99 CAD and then 40% off for 4 of the 1-ounce bottles or $4.99 (-40%) for 2 of the 2-ounce bottles. I have ordered 2- Paasche 1-oz and 2-Paasche 1/2 oz bottles from amazon. The 1/2 oz bottles have metal lids, so maybe those nipples can be transferred? I would like to cap the paint bottles with a solid cap if I am going to leave it for a while. Edit: The Paasche ones from Amazon are $7.50 each.

This is my first serious attempt at a vinyl roof and I am little unsure as to the best order to do things. I figure I need a glossy surface for the foil so I laid down a coat of gloss black on the roof. I think I will put a couple coats of gloss clear over everything before foiling and decals. Then a few more coats of clear to seal the decals and the foil. Then carefully mask the foiled trim and the rest of the body and put the flat black texture on the roof.

Any pictures?

Looking real nice Jason. I have this kit in my stash and you're making me want to dig it out!

Congratulations, so you're not all talk after all!

Well after another 8-12 coats (I've lost count actually) it no longer looks close to the factory color. After the first few coats it looked good from a few feet away but up close you could see right through the paint. I have had a hard time believing that some very talented folks on here have applied more than a dozen coats of paint. I have previously used no more than four, and have completely obliterated script with three coats (airbrushed). I think I may be getting the hang of it (fingers crossed)

Glad you are healing up. The model looks beautiful. Love the color. You could get better pictures if you took them outdoors or set up a neutral background for the finished pictures. There is a great thread in the tips and tricks section.

Nice detailing on that interior.

This is coming along very nicely! I love how the foil stands out on that maroon paint job.

Wow! Was the temperature adjustable and what did you have it set at?

Very nice builds there Guys! I am just going to use the parts it came with though, plus a few minor details of my own. Thanks anyways.

Wow! Thanks for noticing that.

Interior is pretty much done.

Well I wound up sandwiching the decal between the clear lens and a piece of styrene sheet cut to fit which I epoxied in place after taping the decal in position. I did not even remove the paper from the decal. The barracuda decals were sized correctly and laid down pretty nice over the raised script. Thanks for the advice.

1)From the looks of these instructions, the instrument decal (#1 or 2) is applied to the backside of the clear piece #131. This would mean that the decal would have to be applied face down to #131 so that the numbers are correct. I don't think a decal can be applied upside-down and still stick? Does anyone know for sure? If it is meant to be applied between the dash and #131, then there would be no point in making #131 out of clear plastic! I have held the decal in both locations and it does look better behind the clear. 2)If I want to use the decals (#26) where there is script on the dash or body, the script should be sanded off first correct? Will a decal stick to script if it is trimmed very accurately and microsol and microset are used?

I've never used any photo etch so I am not sure. You could send me a link to it or pm me the pictures? I could not find the Revell Hemi 'Cuda set on their website. Thanks, Greg.

They had them on sale at Canuck Tire so I bought a second one. The space inside is rather small so a second one is nice. I only spray in the garage and sometimes it would be nice to have one in there and one in the house. I'll admit I am a very impatient person, so the dehydrator is a must for me!