NOBLNG

Oh, OK. No wonder I was confused. I have sprayed the Aztek paint, and it goes on very nice...but I have not used the transparent. You could brush or spray some onto any clear plastic to get an idea of what it looks like?

Do you mean the Testors Aztec in the square bottles? Do you have a link or a picture of the stuff?

Rather than start a new thread, I figured I would add to this relevant one. My Paasche airbrush came with two cheap plastic paint bottles, only one of which had the fitting to attach to the airbrush. I can buy these two sizes of glass bottles at Michaels that fit the Paasche lid, but they come with foam gaskets in the lids that disintegrate with any volatile fluid. I went to a local gasket supplier and got some 1/16" PTFE (Teflon) offcuts for next to free! Replacing the cheapo lid gaskets with this stuff means I can store just about anything in them. It is quite soft and gives a very good seal. I also made a gasket for a 1/2 pint relish jar to store laquer thinner in, it is big enough that I can drop these smaller glass bottles inside to soak and clean them if necessary.

Yes, Thanks for posting this Jürgen. You did a beautiful job and I appreciate the tips! I recently bought this kit at a flea market and It just moved up in the priority list.

Thanks for the confidence everyone. I have some fine s/s mesh that I am considering putting in place of the louvers (same stuff as on the air cleaner) Although not factory correct, I think it will look nicer than the fake louvers.

Nice, neat simple fab job!

Looks darn fine to me!

Wow. Fantastic detailing on this! I love that camper.

1/25 literally means one divided by twenty five. So take your full size measurement desired and divide it by 25 (or 24 or 16) to get the scale size needed. Likewise, if you have piece of wire, multiply it's actual diameter by 25(or what ever scale you are using) to get what it would represent in full size.

Looks like that paint went on real nice !!

Very nice. I recently built one of these too. I think that color will look great once all the rest of the chrome is on it.

I agree, really nice job on that interior!

Thanks for the link to your build. I hope mine turn out half as nice! This pic I found online is sort of my inspiration.

Thanks, I'll need it!

The hood needs a little bit added on at the rear edges where it meets the body and the exhaust slots don't line up properly. There is no lip that I can see on the radiator grill for the front of the hood to sit on, so I made the top hood and sides into a one piece deal. All comments or suggestions welcome.

I managed to get most of it separated despite the enormous amount of glue used to hold it together. I pinned and epoxied the one windshield post (which was still glued to the windshield frame) back on. Thankfully he didn't scrape the chrome off before glueing it. I made a metal template of the windshield frame and am using it to shape and locate the new post since the kit piece is very delicate and slightly warped. It still needs final shaping, but I think I will leave it off until I get some other body work done.

I picked up this at a flea market last year because I really like the looks of these cars. The Previous Owner had started assembling it and made a few errors. The front axle assembly was installed above the frame instead of straddling it. This led to a huge gap between the frame and the body which the PO tried to fill with glue. The rear springs were installed backwards and both windshield posts were snapped off. One post was gone.

You're welcome! I used a hand held hair dryer and I bent it around the handle of my bench vise.

Here is a thread I started on clear styrene and what I found works better. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/140011-evergreen-clear-styrene/

Nice work! That does look a bunch better than the original design

You could always surprise him and give it this treatment.

Thanks Ray, that suggestion seems to work!

This is bare plastic I am working on. So...no way to easily prevent the "magnetism"? I have had it happen before, and just sanded the area with #3000 for cleanup. I will try the alcohol next time.

Has anyone had this happen? I have scribed some panel lines deeper on a model. When I go to put the black Tamiya panel line accent to it, the accent seems to be attracted to the plastic and "jumps" off the brush about 1/8" before I can touch the panel line, and gets all over the place. Static electricity is no doubt to blame, but how do I prevent it???