bill-e-boy

Need to get me some e7 sealer Have read about it but have just procrastinated about it I prefer Molotow to other chrome paint systems I have tried so far

1- Do you just spray the Molotow straight? I assume any form of thinning is bad. Yup - straight through the air brush with no thinners 2- What should you use to clean your airbrush after using Molotow? I use roller and brush cleaner which may not be available in the US - lacquer thinners works OK too 3- What do you use to clean the airbrush after using the sealer you showed? I haven't used clear coat yet so cannot answer. But take heed of above advise - let it dry for at least a week before handling 4- What is the best way to purchase Molotow for airbrush use? Is there something better than the refill bottles like shown in the pic below? Get the 30ml refill bottle and it pour straight into you paint cup Spray at lower pressures too - 15-20psi The 56 Nomad front bumper shown below was sprayed with Molotow after I tucked it into the body And yup it has a 409 in it, lol

If it has a hole taper some sprue and wedge it in there If it has a tab that wont be seen or an unseen area such as a seat glue on a piece of sprue Then you can hold with an alligator clip on a stick - this keeps you hands out of the way of the paint stream Or you can hold part on a tab by the clip sick I use a piece of waste wood with many holes drilled in it to hold the alligator clip sticks while paint dries As in pix In my case the sticks for the clips is bronze welding wire that I had at the time but a wooden skewer works just as well and is cheaper

Hi Alan This is looking bitchin already - cant wait for the next installment Cheers Bill

This is my take on a spray booth Base is made from 38x38x3mm square tube - I copied the base I made for my mini lathe The body is 18mm MDF that has been painted white It has a 100mm deep drawer to hold all the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH that goes with an air brush The fan is from ??????? - it is old and has never been used - just had to source a capacitor for it The light is left over from a job - I am an electrician The filter is the same as what is used in the house ventilation system - so the thought is to repurpose the filter after it is has been changed in the house. The blue stuff is a sacrificial pre-filter - cheap crappy towel that comes on a roll Work to do yet is to sort out the exhaust tube and mount up my hot box. The hot box needs to be modified with a side opening door rather than a top hinged as at present

Kit - like what you are doing with the trailer Tim - thanks for kind words have been busy with another project but managed to get some colour onto the chassis and motor and bits and pieces. Clear coat as well. Here they are sweating it out in my hot box !! The other project is this The spray booth is almost done so I can go back to some modeling. It has been one of those bucket list things to get done - I have been collecting bits for a while so the only thing left to do is to incorporate the hot box below the spray booth part

Also when you say 2000 grit you mean just regular ole wet & dry? Yup - I nearly always start with that then move on up to the finer grit sizes In the bad old days we started with 2000 grit then sanded to 2000 grit on other piece of 2000 grit to get a finer cut then onto polish compound then carnuba wax Pretty much the same as now but we have access to nice stuff like micro-mesh

Yes you can Wait for about a week then hit it with 2000 grit sandpaper wet with a little wash up detergent then put it aside for a day or more to let it continue to gas out Then use your grits up to what you would normally use then let it gas out some more before hitting it with polish I have found that it is not quite as glossy after colour sanding as some other paints do but it does come out OK The problem is the Tamiya acrylic paints do not dry hard for ages so you need to let it gas out between steps. It does gas out faster after the first step This how I have done it in the past and have found from experience that you cannot rush the job Pix below is of 29 Roadster with solid blue using the above method - no clear used either

Tim - I remember always looking forward to reading the column in Street Rodder - Bill was a good story teller On with my build - I was not happy with the Revell take on the finned oil pan on the motor. I can se how this came about due to the shape of the motor as it was moulded in two halves with the oil pan incorporated with the motor. Answer was to machine up a block of plastic to represent the fins and to glue that ono the motor and shape it up. Un fortunately the Cobra script got sanded off in the shaping process. Pix are of milling the fins and the motor with fins added Milling the fins The chassis is now in primer and waiting for some small additional filling waiting to dry before final sand The next on the list was a colour - not happy with a clone pink - times have moved on from the 80/90's Looked at the new lacquer options from Tamiya and nothing turned my crank other than a dark blue metallic so I got some but still not overly happy. I dug out my stash of old Testers enamels and found a few bottles of Boyds Pacific Blue - that ticks a few boxes - Boyd Coddington the famous billet rod builder, colour choice period perfect and the enamel medium suits the time period So next step finishing prep work on the chassis and getting some colour laid down thanks for looking

I measured the T frame and wheel base is 99mm. I them mocked up the A guards with the Lil John chassis and got a measurement of 106mm so I will need to stretch the frame by that amount. I ended up by gluing on a piece of 3x1.5mm rectangular on which I had picked up the rear cross member and shock mounting tabs. I then relocated the mounting points for the rear end radius rods. The rear tubular cross member will be replaced by some 1.6mm round stock as it mounts the disc brake calipers This should put the tires into the rear fenders better. I will need to work on the splash apron as the front wheels need to be moved forward by about 1mm Pix shows modified frame in front of assemble Lil John chassis

Thanks Alan The rear fenders are huge and need fairly large diameter tyres to fill them. On the Lil John T he must have fabbed new rear fenders to match the tyres he used. They have a smaller radius than the originals I think I have seen a pix of the frame stretch somewhere so will look at that but the rear does need to be lifted up so may end up doing something along the lines of what @tim boyddid. May a combo of the two May be a few days as a "real" project in the "real" workshop has priority on my free time at the moment

I think it depends on the amount of chop My thoughts are: 2" and you can slant the A pillars back 3" either will work but slanting the pillars may end up being too much 4" you will need to stretch the roof between to A and B pillars

I bet the corner handling with those vinyl tires would be a lot of fun A nice build too

Here is a shot of the firewall. The brake booster is a Chebby item and the chassis at this point has been modified for the Jag XJ6 front end And a shot of drivers side chassis with motor in place - not original 315 Poly but an LA360

For my rendition I am looking at the Lil John Buttera T chassis. I pulled the chassis from under the 34 I built years ago - what a struggle. I seem to remember that it was a mission to get the body mated to the chassis when I built it originally. The idea is to eyeball the chassis under the guards to see what is needed. @tim boyddid one yonks ago as posted earlier in this thread The T chassis as removed The front end looks good but will need to be moved forward a little - needs work around the apron - I may take it out altogether. At the rear I have recessed the rear cross member into the A pickup bed rails but it needs more - about 4.5mm more. The wheel base will need to be extended too. This will be the first mod to the donor chassis - not the red one, a virgin one It could do with some taller tyres in the back so will start hunting out some. The 37 Cabrolet are wider but the same height. Any suggestions? The top suspension locator bars on the front end rub against the guards so some relieving will required. The fire wall will need to be recessed a tad to fit the motor in there. I am just glad that I have access to a built up chassis to see what I will need to change to get it together. Saves a truck load of time of change - test fit - change - test fit ...........

Thanks Zippi Still hammering away at small stuff. Found the front shocks were too long so made up some more from round and tube stock. Ribs are cores from some small electronics type wire I needed a tach to fit to the overhead console. Turned one up out of some ally bar on my lathe. Added a gauge face had printed up for the project and filled the front recess with 5min epoxy

I wondered how you chopped the A pillar. Looked through the Fotki link - Aha - I like it - I may use this method on my next 32 chop. Easier than stretching the turret and cutting a section from the A pillar and leaning it back

Cool hot rod. Stance, colour, engine choice spot on

Hi Alan Cool build of that old kit. Love the front end treatment and interior mods Should drop a 241 hemi from an AlaKart into it. You are way past the original banger modified theme and the 241 would fit in with a junkyard raid engine. You could always pass it off as a 315 as this was the largest of the Dodge hemi's I believe

This is awesome work

As an owner of a real deal 56 Dodge CRL coupe you have got the details very accurate. The 55 and 56 chassis were the same but the convertible has an X member for additional strength The front body mount is a U shaped piece welded to the front cross member and does not have a wedge shaped tunnel that carries on to the back of the cross member that is depicted in one of you renderings I have attached an image of that area and of the spring pocket area of the front cross member The front end shown under the Dodge chassis is a Jag XJ6 that I installed in place of the original - a long story that came about but it is on the road now and it is awesome

What a blast from the past. I built one way back when and it still looks OK. It builds up into a nice model. With the ravages of time I see the screen and motor need to be glued back in

A cool ride - nice colour too. I too have used the Ala Kart interior in a couple of my Model A builds and they have come out OK. The Ala Kart chrome windshield/dash combo fits too

Thank Robert Been working on getting it up on wheels Brake lines, backing plates and spring on the rear end first off Next up attach rear radius rods and then move on to the front end. I am happy that it is all going together OK as I did some of the engineering 20 years ago All together ready for the next step - Install the motor - I needed to change the front mounts a little. This is done - just waiting for the paint to dry The wheels are on loose and to check all OK

Thanks Kit Things moving on A quick mock up