Plowboy

The one issued in the '60's and 2010 did have two bodies and you could build two complete models with them. The one issued in '01 only had one body. No coupe body. It could be built two different ways. But, you couldn't build two complete models from it.

Very cool idea! I know it would take some work. But, I would stick with your original idea of using the Chevy rear fenders. It would really tie it together perfectly. I just went through that issue with my '48 F-1 Phantom (convertible nose on the pickup). It was extra work modifying the convertible's rear fenders. But, when I stuck them on the bedsides, it was worth it.

The old '48 is now resting on it's own suspension! Most of my time has been spent on the chassis: cleaning up the frame, converting the suspension to axle over and getting the wheelbase figured out. The stance is just how I want it. I need to get the engine together to check it for clearance. I've made a few tweaks to the body. Just a little more fine tuning and it'll be ready for primer.

That's why I went with the pickup's chassis. No wishbones and I can adjust the wheelbase as needed without moving cross members. I built a '48 coupe 2 or three years ago and used the front chassis clip and rearend/springs from a '49 to get it down where I wanted it.

Thanx! I'm pretty sure I can get it down where it is by doing an axle over conversion. I want to use the convertible interior if possible. The dash at the very least. It'll depend on how much work it'll take to get the door panels to fit.

With the recent reissue of the Vega wagon F/C and the upcoming Grumpy Vega, it may be a Vega wagon. It wasn't that long ago that they reissued the Pinto wagon.

I'll be in for the coupe definitely. I don't need a roadster. I bought three and that turned out to be two more than I needed. I built two out of the first kit using an AMT body and parts from other kits. Started a third with the second kit. But, lost interest.

I've had this idea rolling around for some time. After building the '36 last year, the idea for this one really set in. Unable to resist any longer, I started hacking. The chassis is from the F-1. But, will have to be modified a lot to get the wheelbase right and the stance I want. Right now, it's literally resting on the axles. But, it's where I want the stance to be. The body is made from the '48 convertible clip, partial cowl and partial doors. It also supplied the rear fenders that have been widened and made to fit. The F-1 supplied the roof, partial cowl, top of doors, rear of the cab, bed floor and sides. Not sure if the chrome strips on the fenders will stay or not. Also, trying to decide on the interior whether to use the F-1 or the convertible. The F-1s would obviously be easier. Maybe I'll do a combo of both. We'll see. The plan for the engine is to use the truck block/trans with the convertible heads, intake, carbs and headers. The plans are subject to change at any time though. I did get enough cobbled together to get an idea of what it will look like somewhat.

To me, it looks like he has a sucker with no experience on the hook and either A. Has a second account or B. Has a buddy with an account to bid him up. Perfect example of an out of control bidding war.

Thanx Tim! I hope your guess is correct. I passed on the '30 the first time around thinking there was plenty of time to get one.

Very nice! Tamiya has really gotten my attention lately with their new kits.

The '29 didn't have optional wheels. Just hubcaps/trim rings on or off.

Tim, do you know if the Halibrands will still be an option for the '30 coupe?

Really nice looking VW! Love the wheels, stance and camber! The stripes and mirrors were excellent touches! Really impressed with the realism of the tail lights. How was that accomplished? Great work all around!

Jason, a few issues I had with this kit were: The hood doesn't quite fit flush with the header. Easy fix. The grille also doesn't fit quite right. The headlight bezels and grille stick out too far. I got mine as close as possible and still had to trim the bezels at the top to get them flush with the header. The tail light panel and rear bumper will fit much better if you trim off the lip on the bottom of the trunk. I had to trim mine after it was painted and assembled. The wheel well lips are too thick and don't terminate like they should towards the bottom. Very noticeable in 3/4 views. Another easy fix. If you aren't particular about interiors, you'll be OK. If you are, you'll have your work cut out for you.

Perfect example of what I mentioned. That body clearly has the fastback quarters.

I would do a test on regular kit styrene before committing to it. Spoons aren't the same as kit styrene. I had a bad issue with a can of Rustoleum. Even after drying for a week and half, I could scratch it off with my fingernail. I even put the body out in the sun for a couple of days. Then when I stripped it, it had etched into the styrene everywhere except where there was putty. Luckily, it didn't craze it. Cheap primer is just that, cheap primer. If you have to strip and start over, you haven't saved anything.

I don't like the headers that are on the SBC engine. They have that goofy looking whoop in rear most pipes. The first roadster didn't have that with the Buick engine. I don't understand why the Chevy engine had to. I know on the left side it's to clear the steering shaft. But, it doesn't make sense on the right side. To me, this is one instance where a set of rams horn manifolds would look better. I have all the roadsters I need. But, when/if the '30 coupe comes out, I'll have to snag a couple of them.

There's more to converting a fastback to a coupe than swapping the roofs and trunks. The shape of the quarter panels at the top is quite different between the two. The coupe has a flat, barely sloped line at the top where the fastback's line slopes down substantially. Before you cut, do your research.

That's some great weathering! I really like the crew cab short bed conversion! The Cummins is especially cool! Those tires are directional. But, they should be turned in the other direction.

The ads help pay for the forum as I understand it. No ads. No forum.

That would be great idea! I did that on a model some years ago and it does add that extra touch. With the alternator out of the way, it would make it easier to install the lines.

Didn't Round2 improve the wheels and light bar in the recent issue of the Monaco? Thinking they also improved the push bar.

The engine looks nice! Great details! I built this kit a few months ago and thought the belt and pulley setup looked weird. The belt and pulley setup on this kit is actually wrong for a non A/C engine. The alternator should be mounted on the right side of the engine instead of the same side as the p/s pump. Not a big deal. It just doesn't look right with both accessories hanging on the same side.

Thanx! It's a nice little kit for the time it was produced. But, the older '67-'71s are more accurate. This '72 has a few issues. The biggest issue is that it has the wrong engine. The Dauntless V-6 wasn't available in the '72 and '73 Commandos. It was replaced with the AMC inline six (232 or 258) and the 304 V-8. The wheelbase should be three inches longer (104 vs the earlier 101). No chrome strip. One inaccuracy on all of them is the upside down tail lights (back up lights should be on top). Easy fix. One issue I've had with the two I've built is there is an interference issue between the floorpan and transfer case. I did a body lift on this one. The other got some liberal cutting to the floorpan and transfer case. I couldn't do a body lift as it was a '67 and wouldn't have looked right. If I ever build another '72, I'll make the corrections.