Plowboy

Coolest minivan I've ever seen!! The paint, wheels and tires with a touch of camber, the roof and that interior really sets this model apart from the usual. Nice work!

I would sand it smooth with 2000 grit and spot paint it. The way I spot paint is take a piece of paper, cut a hole in it roughly the shape of the area and double the size. Then hold the paper roughly a quarter inch above the area and do a quick spray through the hole. If it matches, go back over it with clear and polish. Nine out of ten times, this will work. But, there's always that one time. It would be worth trying before resorting to starting over. I've saved several paint jobs with this method and it's worked every time.

I've actually gotten some of the best deals with the BIN option. But, I like both.

Something else to consider concerning parts sellers is there's no way to know if they're parting out complete or incomplete kits. It could very well be that the kit they're parting out is missing critical and or hard to obtain parts. The way I look at it is they're providing a service to those that are needing those parts. It's those people who are determining what the parts are worth. Not the seller. At least the parts are benefitting other modelers and not being thrown in the trash.

That's something else that gets me. That's a '63. Not a '62.

Exactly! No one ever got out of a car, reached back in and neatly placed the seat belts before closing the door. It annoys me to see that on a full scale car at a show too! Until seat belt laws, they were tucked into the seats where they wouldn't be in the way and out of sight.

The problem with the '68 door panels is they're too thick (2mms each) at the top and cause them to lean in. They can be fixed. But, the dash can't. It's leaned in on each side and is 4 mms too narrow. The instrument cluster details are leaned and crowded looking. The whole dash is just inaccurate. I posted photos in the review thread of the '68 if you want to see them.

That's what I'm thinking. Never seen one with chrome trim. Now, I gotta decide whether to make the side markers match or just remove them.

I have an MPC '71 Chevy long stepside bed that I'm converting to a short stepside with pieces from the AMT '72 GMC. My issue with it is the chrome on the cab. I've looked at countless photos of Chevy stepsides and haven't found a single one that that has the chrome on the cab. So, my question is, was the stepside ever offered with the Cheyenne chrome on the cab from the factory?

You may be able to find a resin version of the '63 F-100 that may be more affordable. I'd rather spend the same or a little more for an original. Keep searching on ebay and you'll get one. I went for years wanting a unibody and in one month I scored three. All three were less than $50 each shipped.

Same here. I don't thin it at all so it will cover well.

Very nicely done "Dixie" Jeep! The mild weathering puts it over the top! Nice work!

I finally have a rolling chassis that's glued together permanent! The combination of lowering the suspension and moving it forward created some issues. But, I finally got them all worked out.

AMT did that generation F-150 too. Not sure what engine it came with though. The box shows a long bed. But, it's actually a short bed.

I would do a layer of .010 or .015 styrene and use putty to fill in the edges if necessary.

X2. I quit using enamels years ago.

Great looking replica! Nothing cooler than a model built like the full scale! I have an original '68 promo to build someday. It's almost too nice to hack up. But, they don't come around very often either.

Thanx guys! The engine is the pickup block backed by an automatic from an old Revell '57 Ranchero. All of the hop up parts including the belt/pulley/alternator are from the Revell '48 Ford convertible.

Thanx guys! I have the engine detailed and ready to install. Everything is pretty much ready to go together now. Just gotta spray one more coat of clear on the body.

The paint will still be good. Maybe a touch thick. But, you can thin it down before airbrushing. Even if most of the propellant is gone, there will still be enough to make it squirt out. If it has no propellant at all, you can simply drill a hole in the can.

I would mask those off until the final coat of primer. Prime, foil and paint. Then use 2000 grit to sand the script and emblem to reveal them.

Really nice looking Dodge! I've resisted buying this kit as I have an LRE and the monster truck that still haven't been built. But, this model sure does make me want one! Nice work!

I stated some paints. Especially chrome paint. Not all paints. If I had painted the gold and chrome on this Falcon's scripts before clear, it most certainly would have made the colors run/wick away. The medallion on the trunk lid was foiled and detail painted after clear.

Any details that have to be painted by hand should be done after the clear coat. Clear coats can and will cause some paints to run. Especially if it's a chrome paint. David's suggestion of scribing around trim that will get BMF is a good one. I've been doing that for a few years. It gives the trim a separation look as well as a definitive line to go by.

It was a '71 thing I guess. MPC did the Camaro and Vega with the same crazy parts. I doubt many builders want them for that reason. MPC named them "spoof" parts.