Plowboy

How cool is that! I gotta have one! Was this previously announced? I knew nothing about it!

What tires does this issue come with? The same Firestones as before?

This model has been a battle! It wasn't even supposed to get built. It was supposed to be just a test run to see if I could correct the quarter panels, trunk and vent windows in preparation for a pro street '68 Road Runner that I had planned. But, after making the corrections, my thought was, "The hard part's done. All I gotta do now is paint it and put it together." If only it would have been that easy! It was like it was jinxed! Or maybe I was jinxed! Some of the problems were the kit's fault. Like the quarters, trunk, vent glass and the too narrow track width. The rest of the problems were mine. Like changing parts, paint goofs like smearing what I thought was Tamiya Finish Compound that was actually Tamiya White Putty on the roof. You only make that mistake once folks! The detail painting was a nightmare for me. The tremor in my hand is gradually getting worse seems like. It's almost impossible to do clean detail paint work with a shaky hand. Especially fine details. I thought gluing the entire core support together before primer and paint would be the way to go. But, I discovered that the engine wouldn't go in even without the pulleys installed. So, I had to remove the radiator support. Tough to do when you glue it with the intention of it not coming back apart! Besides the aforementioned modifications, I changed a few parts on the engine. I added valve covers from an AMT '49 Mercury (I know they're not correct. But, they work for me.), headers from the parts box (another nightmare getting them fitted) and breathers from a Monogram '64 GTO. I opened the grille to make it see through. Drilled out the molded in headlights and added lenses. The only disappointment with the grille is my detail painting. The only simple part of this build was the interior. It was a pain to detail with the woodgrain. But, it went together with no problems. It's painted with Tamiya Semi Gloss Black, Krylon Flat Black, Model Masters Leather with a coat of Tamiya Clear Orange for the woodgrain. The body is painted with Tamiya TS 9 British Green with Tamiya TS 13 clear. Wheels and tires are from a Revell '32 Ford with the rears deepened. Right now, the wheels are place holders until I find something I like better. I tried several sets. But, wasn't happy with any of them. Right now, I'm just glad to have the thing done! Thanx for checking it out!

Very nice looking little Mustang Mike! I really like the color on it! It's a perfect example of what talent and effort can do with even the most basic model. Not to mention the repair work! Nicely done!

Here's a closeup of the Phantom Vickie chassis. There is a cross member to mount upper control arms to if one wants to add them.

That one's already done as a replica of my dad's old truck. I have a '77 in the stash with that plan in mind.

Something that would sell well and is current would be accurate grilles for the Moebius bumpside Ford pickups. The grilles in the kits are horribly inaccurate. You could make the '67-'72 grilles. Another suggestion would be the '73-'75 Ford pickup grille along with the '76-'77.

Would also have to make the bumper. Plus, the taillights are mounted vertically in the corners of the bed. So, new bed caps and tail lights would also have to be made.

It's fairly easy to convert the Camper Special to a regular bed. Move the wheel openings 7 mms forward and 4 mms down. The gas cap also has to be moved forward. Replace the bed tub with one from an AMT '93 F-150.

My point is that I've never seen a full scale hot rod with the rearend welded to the frame. The Model A's also don't have a panhard bar to keep the rearend centered and from swaying side to side in turns. In the case of the Phantom Vickie, there simply isn't room for the upper control arms. Even if there were, they would barely be visible.

I'll definitely be grabbing the Streaker Vette! Been looking forward to that kit! Wanted one for years. But, they always went for more than I was willing to pay for one.

Either or, it would be a lot. It would take less effort to turn the 350 into a 150 than it would to turn the bump side into a dent side. I would rather see AMT/Round2 take it on as to see Moebius butcher yet another Ford pickup.

They did it pretty much from the get go. The '73 box art on the lid makes it hard to tell if it's a regular LWB or the extended LWB. But, it does show the F-350 Super Camper Special badge on the fender. Side box art clearly shows it being the extended LWB. The '77 box art on the lid clearly shows a regular LWB and the side art shows the extended LWB.

The same can be said about the Revell Model A kits.

It takes more than half ton wheels to turn the F-350 Camper Special into an F-150. The bed on the F-350 is totally different as is the wheelbase. The rearend sets back seven inches farther making the wheelbase longer. The wheel openings on the bed are also four inches higher.

You should be able to do it just as you described Mike. I've painted the blue line on the Good Year Blue Streak Sports Car Special tires and did it that exact way.

Waaaaay back in the day when I worked in a body shop, the red oxide primer looked exactly as you described. It didn't look red to me at all. Some of the current red oxide primers in the spray can also look brown. If you think it needs it, just add some red from the same line to it.

You can make bulges in the top of the wheel wells to gain clearance. I had to do it on both of these models.

This is the coolest model I've seen built with the Phantom Vickie. It's from the talented hands of Rockin Rodney Rat. It even looks cool with the top on.

What kills the Phantom Vickie IMO is the goofy Duvall windshield and top. But, the rest of it makes a great basis for a modern hot rod. I also like the engine, wheels and tires for other modern type builds. Still, with some parts swapping, you can make a pretty cool hot rod with it. For me, it's a fun kit to see what I can make out of it with different parts.

I haven't lowered an L-700. But, I have lowered several others. The easiest way to lower a kit with a straight axle front end and parallel leaf springs is to do an axle over conversion. Instead of gluing the axle to the bottom of the springs, glue it on top of the springs. You may have to notch the frame depending on how much clearance you're left with.

This is an early photo of a '67 coupe conversion I did with the chassis under it. Same basic body as your GT-350. Just different fascia and tail panel. Installing those pieces first works much better when it comes time to paint. Trying to glue them on after paint is a recipe for disaster. Especially if they happen to not fit quite right.

You definitely want to glue parts 90, 96 and 97 to the body before paint. The chassis will still fit. But, it will be a little tricky. Insert the rear of the chassis first and the front will slide right in.

Check 3D printing. Someone may be making one.