MarkJ

Nope, more like Galveston. We have air you can wear in the summertime.

Okay, I'm starting to worry a little bit. I watched the video above again and realized the presenter was using like ten short bursts in a row on his spoons to achieve his very good results. I decided to try one more spoon using his method, and I got very good results even with the humid conditions outside. I brought the spoon inside into low humidity air-conditioned house and what had looked good right after I did it started to morph into cracks and weird spots ruining what I thought I had achieved. I'm thinking maybe I should give the plastic spoon a gloss black coat of rattle can tamiya for a base coat and see what happens. painting something black is easier to tell what kind of results you are getting then painting something white. Plus, I think the chrome needs something better to latch on to then just raw plastic. We shall see.

Yes, Charles's way is much better than having a printer make your parts. JMHO.

I'm in deep southeast Texas which is even worse when it comes to humidity.

I got my Revell Chrom on Saturday and decided to try it outside yesterday. I wanted to see how it would do on an over 90% humidity day. Wasn't good. First spoon I had to put too much material down to make it gloss so the material kind of puddled up and also looked like it had trash in it which it didn't. the second spoon I got too far away, and it blushed badly. I'm supposed to get a front on Thursday which will bring the humidity down in the 60% range. I hope I get better results then. And I hope the front actually comes through. We don't usually get cold fronts down here in southeast Texas in early September.

I got my Revell Chrom on Saturday and decided to try it outside yesterday. I wanted to see how it would do on an over 90% humidity day. Wasn't good. First spoon I had to put too much material down to make it gloss so the material kind of puddled up and also looked like it had trash in it which it didn't. the second spoon I got too far away, and it blushed badly. I'm supposed to get a front on Thursday which will bring the humidity down in the 60% range. I hope I get better results then. And I hope the front actually comes through. We don't usually get cold fronts down here in southeast Texas in early September.

Wow, hope you get those wheels soon but glad you have started on the BMW. Can't wait to see your fix on the greenhouse.

Nice save on the glass. I need to remember that tip.

Hopefully that will do the trick. If not, you might try some two-part epoxy that comes in bottles and sold by hobby Lobby. It's much easier to mix up than the kind that mix in the applicator or the kind that comes in tubes. It's clear after it sets.

Did the Aston Martin DB5 make it to the underglass section and I missed it? Looks like you have found another great subject to first fix and then build. Too bad the model makers can't seem to get even a greenhouse correct. Looking forward to more of this and waiting for the finished pictures of the Aston Martin.

Finally got the engine painted but will have to fix the valve covers again. I matte varnished the engine after touching up around the fan belts and pulleys. I used a gold leaf pen to color the linkage on the carb. Got my Revell Chrom today so it's Christmas in August for me today.

you are correct, Mark. I can't see anything wrong with it. In fact, it looks pretty Awesome.

Yes, Bob, but worth every cent of it. Now if you're planning on painting a whole car body that might be an extravagant use of the product.

Thanks for the tip on future, Steve, and the recommendation about how long to let everything dry. Finding your old thread was a godsend for me to know how to use this mucho expensive stuff. I bought two cans so I think that should be a lifetime supply for me for the things I will use it for. I mainly like that all bumpers in the future with lots of flash and sink holes and the year model molded into the license pocket can be fixed now and then refinished with this stuff.

Great save on the decal problems. And painting the headlight decals was a great idea too.

Thanks for the tip, Alberto. I will shoot a spoon or two first before I shoot the real part just to know if I'm in the ballpark and I will increase the drying time.

Thanks, Alberto. I actually found that out by watching the 24-minute video somebody posted in this thread. The main thing it seems is the part has to be ultra smooth and cleaned off with 70 % alcohol wipe before shooting it, and light quick bursts like the guy in the video does to the spoons. You also need to let it dry for at least 24 hours before you even think about touching it.

This was the best test I could find if you have 24 minutes to spare.

I'm using some Revell Chrom after it arrives hopefully Saturday. I'm redoing some wheels I did in AlcladII chrome, and you are saying I don't have to shoot this stuff over gloss black? Is that correct? I know this is an old thread, but I hope it pops up in your emails and you can answer. Thank you for doing the test and providing excellent pictures of your results. Needless to say, I am very excited about using this product.

Now I need to find out if I can just shoot these parts as is or if I need to have them gloss black like you have to do with alcladII chrome.

I realized I had already assembled the wheels and tires, and I needed to get the wheels free so I could repaint them with the Revell Chrom spray. I put them in the freezer for a while and they luckily came apart so I can do so. I will be removing the bare metal foil from the air cleaner and painting it at the same time I do the wheels. I might even do the expansion tank and of course I will be doing the valve cover breathers as well. Latest tracking shows it to be delivered this Saturday at 9 p.m. I'm waiting with Mucho anticipation.

Bummer when they come apart like that. I'm sure you will find a solution for this problem. model on, Mark.

Got the first painting of the engine done and will need to do some touchups with a tiny brush where the paint overlapped. I also will go back over the whole engine with dull coat varnish. It's just too glossy even though this is Vallejo acrylic paint. I will cut off the valve cover breathers and repaint them with the Revell Chrom when it arrives. Might take as much as 4 to 5 days to get it because it has to be ground transported because it is flammable.

Great news, I was able to order the Revell Chrom spray from Model Roundup today. I've been wanting it for a long time and finally will have it. It should improve the look of the air cleaner and the wheels on the build. Will just need a low humidity day to get outside and spray them. Thanks Dave B for letting me know about it. So much appreciated. I tried to order it yesterday, but a recording told me to leave my number, and they would get back to me. Well, I did not hear anything the rest of the day and thought, oh well I guess it was too good to be true. But the voice on the message called me back today at 11 this morning and was so helpful to me in placing the order. Will definitely be purchasing more from them in the future.

Big improvement over what came in the kit. I could never work in this scale. It's just too intricate for me. Model on Mark, it's going to be great.