Rick L

My generation would build what they grew up with. Our fathers were our heroes and we built military models of their tanks, airplanes and ships. Later we built models of salt flat racers, hot rods and muscle cars. And my generation is still building those today. Now, I can’t get too excited over building a model of my 2015 Ford Escape.

Hi Bob Try taking a sharp xacto blade and scribe a parting line along the intersection of the blade and body of the car. The ink can run down the wiper and into the scribed groove without running outside.

Something like “Brighto”.

Acetone.

That is very interesting. Perhaps you could dab a dust free cloth with a final swipe of distilled water after washing with the mineral water. A 12oz. bottle would last quite a while.

What is your reasoning to buff before clearcoat and not after?

Craigslist.

Polyurethane enamel, better known as Polane is a two part mix along with a reducer for better paint flow. It’s more durable but it goes on thick with higher pressure and won’t be kind to your average airbrush. It’s nasty stuff to work with and won’t buff out like lacquer. Stick with hobby paints.

Very clean. Thanks for sharing.

Go for it!

That is an extremely unusual looking reaction you have there. I’m sorry to hear of all the prep work you did to see this happen. There are many options here for a fix but I think we need to look at the cause of the problem. I remember years ago we had a novice employee paint a finished architectural model after eating a pizza and it looked a lot like your model. So may I ask if you had by chance handled it with something greasy or polish before topcoat?

That’s a good idea. I like making multiple passes with a sharp #11 exact o blade until the part gives in.

This looks like it’s going to be fun.

I have to agree with you there but you can’t buy it by the ounce. The smallest amount I can find is a 36 oz. can at $36.00, so yes it costs $1.00 an oz. but I’m not repairing 1:1 cars. I’m using it on 1:25 scale models. 36oz. Is more than enough resin I’ll need before it dries out.

I’ve found Evercoat Polyester Glazing putty to be the best in the industry. Very fine, smooth, easy to sand and most importantly minimal shrinkage if any. Expensive but worth the money. Another note about polyester resins is to keep it well sealed in the can and thoroughly mix EVERY time you use it.

Be careful and patient with your paint. The lacquer is shrinking the filler. Be sure to apply your paint in layers, working up the volume of paint as you go. Be sure each layer is dry and hard. This will give you protection from the next coat to attack and soften its underlying coat. The super glue idea will also work to block the lacquer from eating underneath but you need to sand that smooth before paint. So be careful not to sand that out.

If you use CA, don’t waste your Zap. Just hit it with water. It will kick instantly and harden to sand out.

I was one of those looking forward to that build thread. Or did I miss it?

You’re painting under some tough conditions. The hot part is favorable but the humid part can create a little havoc in the form of blushing in the paint finish. Blushing is caused by the high moisture in the air mixing with the paint flow as you paint, causing the paint to dry unevenly and effect the gloss pattern. So, not only are you going to have to set your tent up for the dust. You need to wait for low humidity conditions. I suggest you make the best of it. Wait for a dry day, pack the tent, a couple of six packs, some food, the fishing rod, the model and all the paint and go camping.

Can you send them back to the manufacturer?

I’ve used Golf glove leather at times but the black and browns are harder to come by. Most all of them come in white now.

Where did you get this? At .015 Does it come in brown?

I’ve used pPg only as a necessity and had no issues with its wax and grease remover on styrene but I agree with the guys on this discussion. Not all solvents are the same. Good old soap and water is the most economical solution on the release agents used. You don’t need glove protection and you’ll keep your hands oh so baby soft.?

So to answer your question, a .815 O.D heater hose in 1/24 scale would be .0339. That’s .815 divided by 24. The closest nominal number would be .03125 or 1/32 dia.

For 1/24 scale divide the 1/1 number by 24, for 1/25 scale divide by 25, for 1/8 scale divide by 8, for 1/16 scale divide by 16, 1/87 divide by 87 and so on. For multiplication conversion divide the scale number you’re building into 1 and you will get a decimal equivalent So for 1/24 scale, 1” divided by 24=.041”. From that number multiply the 1/1 size that you want to model and you will get the scale size. So a 2” radiator hose in 1/24 scale would be 2”X.041=.082”. I hope that helps.