papajohn97

Thanks Bob for your compliments on my Willys. I think I clear coated this one with TS-13 after laying down the transparent red. I’m slowly learning ‘best methods’ with Tamiya gloss lacquer color and clear coat rattle cans for me. Things I do are to pre-heat can in hot water, wipe down model with damp paper towel and then wipe dry to discharge static electricity/ reduce dust/ lint, spray multiple thin coats and allow to dry 5-10 min between coats, on final “wet coat”, rotate body around randomly relative to gravity for the first few minutes of drying to prevent wet coat runs. I lucked out on this Willys, most of my gloss jobs have some slight orange peel or semi-gloss to them, I’m definitely still learning....

Thanks Tom for posting this base kit. First time I’ve researched an old kit on scalemates and came up dry, it’s usually a pretty comprehensive model kit history resource. I re-did a search there using “AMT 63 Hardtop” and found it listed as a Monterey: I remember my brothers and I building AMT kits like this one as kids. Like my first few used cars, if only I knew then what I know now what they would end up being worth!

Very cool project. I’m starting to dip my toe into the kit bashing pool, currently gathering parts and kits for ‘62 and ‘63 Ford super stockers using nice ‘AMT 60 Starliner chassis/ engine parts, so I’m watching and learning from your excellent tutorial here. Question on your base kit for this build: what specific AMT kit are you using for the body? When I review past kits in Scalemates, I can’t find anything that has rear light features that look like your Meteor here. Did you modify a ‘62 Comet kit?

Very realistic and clean build of an interesting subject. The three Ebbro kits that I’ve assembled (all 1/20 F1 cars) were quite challenging - did this one go together easily? Do the doors open on your build or did you choose to bond them shut?

Nice job Michelle! Love the color! I’m building the Gas Ronda Thunderbolt version of this (Revell I assume kit) and am making all kinds of mistakes as I go but having fun. So far I haven’t broken the front suspension assembly but can see how easily it can happen (the two bulky A arms tethered by a very thin connecting link). The headers on the racing version of this kit are a bear to assemble to engine/ chassis. The kit I’m building has very nice chrome parts, particularly the bumpers and front grill. Did you sprayed your chrome with aluminum paint? Thanks for sharing! Hoping to share my Thunderbolt on here soon if I don’t first take a hammer to it!

Really gorgeous and tasteful bucket T model! Looks like a real one you photographed at the GNRS! I particularly love the engine detailing (carbs, fuel lines, linkage, throttle return spring (guitar string?)) and those beautiful cal custom scoops. How did you do the chrome parts on this build (metallic paint? Alclad?)? Great job in making the chrome/ bare metal look real and avoiding the model car “toy” chrome look.

Beautiful execution of the two-tone/ pin striped GS. I assume this is the Accurate Miniatures kit, a challenging one to build well. I completed a light metallic blue one a few years ago and remember struggling for days with the fit and alignment of the engine, front end assembly, exhaust headers and hood fit. Still, the Grand Sport is such an awesome looking race car and that AM Webber topped engine is so cool it makes the kit assembly hassles worth it. Your build has inspired me to take a crack someday on this two-two version. I like your taped over headlight covers, looks more realistic than the painted over white ones I’ve seen on other builds. Thanks for posting!

Very nice and vary rarely modeled GT-40 variant. Love your taste in cars and car modeling subjects!

What an unusual and great subject for a resin build! Funny, I was just looking at an old book a few days ago that I bought in 1975, “The Last Onslaught on Detroit” by Richard Langworth, a detailed history of Kaiser-Fraser. It’s a great reference, let me know if you run into questions that I can check this reference against for you. I have a soft spot for K-F, my dad drove a Henry-J to work when I was a kid and my Uncle Duke drove a Manhattan beater. I recently purchased a resin ‘62 Ford Galaxie to attempt an early super stock build using AMT’s ‘60 Ford Starliner as a chassis/ engine doner. I’ll be watching your build and appreciate any tips you pass on for executing a resin conversion.

This classic convertible looks fantastic in black. I envy your ability painting black gloss, I’m one of those guys you mention that has struggled trying to spray it without problems. Cool build!

Great job on one of my all-time favorite race cars. I got to see six wheelers in F1 racing at Long Beach in ‘77 (the white & blue ‘B’ models with wider front track). They were pretty competitive - Depailler came in 4th! I read later that the little windows were added to allow visibility of the front tires/ brakes during cornering; Scheckter once lost one of his four front wheels and wasn’t even aware of it! (gee....handling feels a little different...!). Love these 1/20 classic F1 cars - please build and post some more!

That is really cool! I have this kit in the stack and figured either a stock or rod build but really like what you did with this vintage beach racer! Inspiring! Cool color choices and very clean build. Also love that red background on the first shots - eye candy!!!

Beautiful “silk purse” you’ve made out of that “sow’s ear” of a kit (AMT ‘63 Impala). All this kit needs are four screws to be a return to my childhood modeling years..... I tried making a Dave Strickler Z-11 drag car out of this kit last year and also had to raid a perfectly good complete AMT ‘62 Bel Air kit for decent engine bay parts and steelie wheels . The ’61 and ‘62 AMT Chevies are such nice kits, too bad they didn’t re-do the ‘63 when they did these later kits. At least the body on the ‘63 is pretty decent. Your ‘63 is really gorgeous, thanks for sharing!

Great pics!!!!. Looks like you shot these outside on a “cloudy-bright” day that was ideal for illuminating shadows and avoiding hot spots/ glare. The reflected sky and beaches on the high gloss hid/roof really makes these pics pop. I also like the stepping stones you placed the car on and the out-of-focus branches in the background, very arty. As others have said, this Lambo model is pretty close to perfection but IMO it’s your photography skills that knock it out of the park! Thanks for posting!

I think all scale model prices are up and inventories (especially paint and supplies) are down due to the pandemic. The models prices that I have witnessed go thru the roof are Wingnut Wing 1/32 WWI aircraft kits - owner Peter Jackson (yes, the film director) had to shut the doors last year for financial reasons and the kit prices on eBay are nuts. The $150 Gotha bomber kit goes for $1000-$1200! Wouldn’t be surprised if it goes up more.... I think once life returns to normal and we can all spend any discretionary money on things other than scale models (and mail order wine in my case!), prices may drop and the market may be flooded with unbuilt kits. At least there might be a lot more entries at the next in-person model contest we attend?

Hey TransAmMike, Here’s a quick header build description I’m using, hope it helps: I use 2 mm rosin core solder, cut 3” long pieces, straighten by rolling it between the palm of your hand and table top. I’ve never. Tried aluminum but I would think it would be much more difficult to bend unless it is close to pure aluminum with minimal alloying. The rosin core also makes it really easy to drill out the ends if you don’t use a collector. I drill out holes in the engine same diameter as solder: I use a four hole “header” for the header, the one shown here is from Speedcityresin but you can also make your own using sheet styrene (photo below shown with solder installed, I didn’t photograph the plastic part with the four holes but you get the idea): I bend the solder by clamping it in a PE fixture (you can probably just use a small board and a weight or clamp) and place a drill bit shank of the diameter you want the bend to be, then pull the outer leg of the solder upward using a blunt tool (back of a knife?) to make the bend: I then take the solder pieces, insert them into the plastic header (don’t glue them yet!) and dry-fit it with the engine block and chassis until I get the rough form I need. You can tape the exit end of the solder pieces together to keep it together temporarily. At this point, I’m done making a “rough draft” of one side header and go back and re-cut and bend four new pieces for which I have a better idea of where to make the bends. The nice thing about solder is you can recycle the dry-run pieces by restraightening them using the rolling technique. Here’s a shot of a dry-run fitting of the headers to the chassis and engine block: I used a 1/4” diameter styrene tubing for the exit collector in this header. Once I’m happy with it, I bond the entry header strip and the exit collector to the four solder pieces using CA: Here’s a shot of the headers and BBC dry-fit installed into the chassis of the Revell ‘65 Chevelle I’m building: I suspect there are other/ better ways of doing this but I wanted to pass on my current method. Hope this helps! John

Lately scratch-building exhaust headers using 2mm solder. I’ve been obsessed lately building early/mid-60’s SS and A/FX drag cars using stock kits that don’t include drag parts. Seems like I’ve spent the last two man-cave sessions trying to make both headers perfectly symmetrical and clearing chassis/engine mounts. Hoping this gets easier as I do more....

Nice job! Perfect period correct two-tone color selection. I like that you omitted the beauty rings on the wheels, I think they gave this Galaxie model more of that ‘toy look’ to my eye when they’re included.

A very clean, realistic, beautiful build of a very historic race car that we very rarely see in a hand built scale model. If I’m not mistaken, isn’t this is the car that Dan G. climbed out of and started the champagne spraying tradition in the winner’s circle? I haven’t yet visited the HF museum to see the 1:1 but did get a chance to see it at a Gurney tribute weekend at Laguna Seca in 2010 (along with all of his beautiful eagles). Scalemates.com list a 1/24 injection molded kit of a Mk IV made by Nakamura back in the ‘70’s - has anyone ever seen this kit sold or built? I wish Fujimi would produce a Mk IV along with an early series Ford Mirage in 1/24. You can only build so many GT-40’s (or not!). Thanks for sharing!

What a gorgeous Alpine. I’m really impressed with the bright trim work (foil?), absolutely stunning. I built this Tamiya kit many years ago and remember it being a joy to assemble. It’s also amazing how small these cars were (I’ve never seen a 1:1 version in person, I just remember comparing it with other 1/24 car models at the time). Thanks for sharing!

Very nice job on the most difficult car model color for me, gloss black.Large decals over scoops and compound curves that have to be nearly perfectly symmetrical makes your finished build 2X impressive as well. Beautiful job!

Thanks Ron as well as the others above who have left kind comments. The turned aluminum velocity stacks are made by Detail Master (item #3295). These are not really period correct for ‘64-65 Mopars, they should be shorter with more of a right angle ‘L’ profile like the molded ones included by Moebius. I wish DM or other after market sources offered the more classic Mopar stacks. I may just drill out and re-metalize the molded stacks included in the kit on the next Moebius hemi I build.

Nice job Jason on I think what is Moebius’s most challenging auto kit. You did an excellent job resolving the window and grill fit issues. Also nice job applying all those big decals over all those compound curves and sharp ridges. A Cool Cat (or should I say dog?)!

Impressive job with the silver sharpie on the trim! Did you mask it first or just apply freehand? The color look’s more appropriate than I first thought based on the brochure pic posted above. A beautiful tribute to Vigil Exner’s styling!

Beautiful cleanly built Cougar! Im really impressed with your “paint over bare metal foil” job on the emblems. You’d need a microscope to detect the outline of the foil edge. Is there a tutorial for this technique posted anywhere? Do you sand the paint off using micro mesh or remove it with solvent? I’d love to try this sometime (versus my feeble attempts at freehand cutting foil around the border of molded-in script). Nice job Bart! Thanks for posting!