Bainford

Well, this is a timely post. Thanks for this info. I visited this section of the forum specifically to ask if there was any chance we would see the MPC '72 Chevelle again. I am very happy to hear it is 'on deck'. I have a project that I am anxious to get going, and I need a '72 Chevelle body shell. I have been reluctant to purchase from the second hand market because, 1) the prices are nuts for a basic kit, and 2) it can be difficult to know if the kit in the box is MPC or AMT. I know of at least one issue of a '72 Chevelle which has the MPC kit on the box art, but the AMT kit in the box.

Beautiful Alfa. Very nice clean work.

Cool project. It's neat to see two Renwal Revivals on the forum at the same time. I find these cars intriguing, though not all of them are beautiful. I think the Jordan and the Stutz are the most pleasing stylistically. This is the first time I've seen the Jordan built. Nice work so far. I'll be following along.

Very nice work . This has got to be about the nicest rendition of a Renwal Revival I have seen. The added details really bring it alive, and the colour choices are suitably elegant. Looks like a fun build. Lovely model.

Welcome to the forum, Dave. That is some great looking weathering. Looking forward to seeing more of your stuff. Cheers

Sorry Greg. I knew all of that. It was just my lame attempt at a joke. It's what happens when I post too late at night.

AI in the flesh?

Those pics certainly have a n AI vibe, especially the second pic if you look at the propeller of the plane in the background, which looks like it is made of furniture legs. The last two pics are cool, though. The second pic especially so. What a cool custom.

Lovely Ford. Such a great looking race car. I have not built this kit, but I built the Mk I many years ago and it was a struggle. You wrestled a great looking model from this old kit. Very nice work.

Good looking Mustang. That's a first effort to be proud of. Now on to the second one.

That's a good looking AM, Pierre, with a great period vibe. In spite of the kit's shortcomings, you've wrung out a fine model. Your subtle roof correction is a great improvement. Oh, great paint work, as always. Very nice work.

Simply gorgeous. Lovely work, Matt.

Beautiful Pontiac. Hard to beat triple black. Very nice job. This model reminds me of a car a high school buddy's father owned. It was a '68 black on black (no vinyl roof) with a 400 4-speed. I always thought that was such a good looking car.

Nice conversion work. Looking good.

Cool. 70s Novas make great pro street cars.

The LeMans driver is in the trunk and has a bucket for a head. The Imperial driver has been integrated into the front seat.

Thanks a ton. That's exactly what I needed to see. I make them out to be 1/2 - 17/32", just a hair shy of 13" wheel in 1/24 scale. Cheers.

It's a beater. This is looking good.

Good looking XK engine.

Great haul! Really digging the Fujimi EM Daytona and Dino. I am curious about the Wyle E Willys. Does it have a scale? I am guessing it is something like 1/32 with some 1/25 parts (rear wheels and engine Parts) The front wheels look like the Cosmics that were the optional alloy wheel available on Lotus Europa S2. I have never seen a set in scale. I suppose they are about 1/32 scale? If the kit is unsealed, is it possible to get a diameter measurement? No worries, if not.

I can't see them either.

The following statement is from the Cobra Motors info sheet; Knowing this, I see no reason at all to use 2K clear on this paint. Use anything else. Frankly, I am quite surprised Cobra Motors chose to make their clear 2K. Why? If you can use anything else, why not make the clear anything else? They promote the non-toxicity of the colours, which seems important to them, so why choose the most damaging format for their clear?

Good read, Bill. Thanks. It's inevitable of course, but we sure are losing a lot of heroes lately. R.I.P Augie.

The dossier states in a couple places that the clear IS toxic. They are quite up-front about that.

All of the above. A tool I find particularly useful for jobs like this is a curved blade heated and bent to about 30 degrees, and the cutting edge ground off save for 3 mm (.120") at the end. To bend the blade I clamp the cutting end in a vise, use a pencil torch to heat the bend-area red and bend with a pair of pliers. It's important to clamp at the cutting end to sink the heat away from the cutting edge to preserve its temper.