Bainford

Brilliant! Cheers Daniel. Very helpful indeed. I got thinking about it after getting up this morning, and recalled Monogram having a Datsun 240z kit back in the day, so I checked it out online and it has the same tires. So that's two options to look out for.

Digging through my tire stash looking for the right tires for my current project, I came across this set of Pirelli P7 ( sized 225/50VR15) which will do the job nicely. I have no idea what kit they are from, probably not something I have built, maybe something from Monogram. They will work for a couple other projects I have in mind too, and if I can identify the kit(s) origin, I can hunt for another set. MPC wheel, which fits slightly loose, is just to illustrate size. Not a large tire.

I inferred from Steve's link that they are doing this in-house. Very glad to have this service available again. I, too, have procrastinated in the past and missed out on having stuff chromed.

Thanks for that. Interesting news. Also interesting the specific list of things banned. Tamiya lacquer thinner is one. And did I hear correctly that four of the spray colours are now approved for use? I got a giggle out of the notion that Tamiya may be recalling back any remaining paint from consumers (us). Haha. Speaking of all this, I got an email a couple days ago from a club member saying the LHS is being ordered to return all remaining stock by Dec 31.

Lovely Impala. Lots of very fine details bring it to life. Very nice work.

The old Ford looks good. The ancient AMT kits still holds its own. Very nice work.

The big Chevy looks good. I really like the stance. Colour combo suites it very well.

Cool find, Chaz. He may not be super detailed, but the work is quite clean. The Vette is looking good.

Nice work on this one, David. I have been curious about these ICM Model T kits. I am quite enjoying your build. I think I need one of these.

Excellent work on this one, Pierre. I just had a good read through this entire build. Impressive work all around.

Good to see you back at it, Bruce. I'm enjoying this build.

Oh yeah, that's looking good. Lovely colour for the E Type. Ride height looks perfect.

Welcome to the forum, Simo. Interesting progression of building skills illustrated there. Your builds are looking very good, and your latest work looks very clean. Nice paint work. As you have seen, there is a lot of great info to be gleaned from this forum, and lots of helpful people. Enjoy the forum, and I'm looking forward to seeing more of your builds.

Carved from wood!? That is some stunning work, Gary. Very impressive. Proper model building, that. Thanks for posting the collection. A lovely group of fine race cars. It never fails to amaze me just how big modern race cars are when compared to vintage racers.

Cool build, Rich. These old Japanese kits are interesting, and probably a bit of a chore to get together right. Great to see all of the included features functioning. Nice work.

Cool project. Very creative. I think the pig needs a tail.

It's coming along beautifully, Andrew. Just catching up with this build, spent the last hour learning how to scratch a Maserati mill.

It looks like something The Cat in the Hat, The Lorax, and all The Whos would go to church in.

That thing is seriously awesome. Just dripping with period coolness. I'm really digging the freaky mill. All round very cool build. Nice detailing and use of washes. I love it!

There is the 'Shows and Contests' section of the forum, near the bottom of the main forum page. Also, the magazine regularly posts announcements of upcoming shows.

Does this stuff have a name, or do I have to actually click on that video link?

Oh yes, I'd build a Crosley. Lots of cool build opportunities there.

Good looking Rambler. Always preferred the 'B' scheme. Nice work.

I am interested to hear the responses to this question. I used Tamiya acrylic for years, but as you said, it requires heavy coats to achieve a pleasing red. It also never hardens. These two qualities make it impossible to do a decent job of masking and detailing a tail light lens, especially when the clear orange has the same qualities. When the Tamiya lacquer bottles showed up, I was eager to try the clear paints, but disappointed to find they behave exactly the same as the acrylics. I have lately been seeking alternatives with better colour saturation that go on thinner and will properly dry/harden to allow masking. Has anyone tried the Alclad clear red, orange, or amber? I am curious to know how they perform relative to the Tamiya clear colours.

I usually leave enamels at least a month before cutting & polishing, all of that time spent in the dehydrator. Construction can happen slowly at my bench, so not uncommon to spend more time than that curing. The issue with enamels, as mentioned somewhere above, is it forms a skin as it dries, and this skin inhibits the drying/curing of the paint underneath it. The heavier the coat, the worse the effect. As long as paint smell can be detected, the paint is still gassing out and uncured. I have found, though, that after a few days to a week of drying, the full cure can be sped up significantly by wet sanding the body with the first grit of the cutting process to remove the outer layer of the skin, then popping it back in the dehydrator for a few more days. The continued out-gassing occurs much more quickly then. A few years ago I painted an MGB with Humbrol enamel thinned with lacquer thinner. The body had no fine detail, so I laid the paint on a little heavy to have plenty of material for cutting & polishing. After at least two weeks in the dehydrator, the body still had the faint scent of paint, so back into the dehydrator for five more days. After that, there was still a hint of paint smell, but with a deadline looming I decided to have a go at colour sanding. The colour sanding was going well, working my way through the starting grit, when suddenly I got a strong smell of fresh paint. Wiping the water off the finish, I found a dime-sized darker spot on the middle of the deck lid. Touching it lightly with a toothpick, the paint transferred easily to the wood. After nearly three weeks in the dehydrator, the paint under the skin was not only uncured, it was still wet. I continued to work the rest of the body just enough to remove the skin, then popped it back in the dehydrator. In two days the paint was solid and cured and exhibited no paint smell.