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Dave B

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Everything posted by Dave B

  1. I've partially achieved what I wanted to! I made a two part silicon mould but have been unable to get the body out properly so I have reverted back to a slush mould technique for the time being. I'll work on how to remove the inner mould, maybe by cutting it diagonally through front to back so I can remove the inner rear first? I also managed to get a flaw in the silicon so that on the front guard above the open vent there is a slight depression that looks like the resin is delaminating, it isn't, just a nuisance, not sure how I did that!! At least I am able to give my mate, who gave the a mint 289 AMT body to cut up, a reasonable fliptop. Anyway I now have to remove the fliptop's front, start modifying the front suspension to a leaf spring Ala the 289 Cobra and also make a mould for the windscreen so I can vacform one. Tks for looking Dave B
  2. Hi Andrew, tks for posting this, it looks like they build into a very nice kit, with a little patience that is!! Dave B
  3. Have added the bonnet vents. I have glued 0.010" styrene sheet below them as a temporary measure before it goes into silicon. Getting close now, just a couple of more goes at getting rid of the original mould lines!!. I have included one each of my standard AMT 289 and Monogram 427 and also included my build of a Revell FIA roadster (on a widened AMT chassis but with a Monogram 1/24 small block Ford motor). Constructive criticism appreciated before it is too late!! Tks for looking Dave B
  4. Nice build Rich, I have done one also, great minds think alike!! Dave B
  5. Looks interesting William. If you do Jim Hall's don't forget to pancake the bonnet bulge!! Dave B
  6. After comparing the pics of the restored version to 'as raced' at Nassau I decided the nose needed reworking. I have made the opening larger and it now has the lower front valance. I have also scribed the new panel lines, added the scoop and given an initial undercoat to find the faults, etc. Now it just needs bringing up to scratch. Tks for looking Dave B
  7. Nice build Art. Dave B
  8. PS the drivers side mirror has since fixed!! Dave B
  9. Well, I have finally finished my Shadow. Been fun to build and I would like to thank my mate Roger for the kit and his friend Walt for giving it to him. Apart from the mirrors, from my parts box as the Raydot style were incorrect, and opening all the major vents it has been built box stock. Great decals from Michael at Indycal and finished in auto acrylic with a clear coat. Now it's back to the fliptop Cobra body!! Rich, you'll enjoy building yours, get on with it!! Tks for looking Dave B
  10. That looks great Gary, it would have to have been taken off the Merit kit. Dave B
  11. Great looking build Roger! Dave B
  12. Beautiful build Roger Dave B
  13. Nice build Matt, looks real good. Dave B
  14. Have now completed the rear guards and I am happy with them. I now have to break out the putty, fill in the existing panel lines and start scribing lines, fill & open vents, modify the front guards, etc. Will be putting it aside for a while so I can finish my AVS Shadow. Tks for looking Dave B
  15. Great build Michael, I hope mine turns out that well. Tks for posting. Dave B
  16. OK, I originally thought, after seeing Gramps bondo CSX 2196, that I would back cast an old slot car body and end up with something similar. I was not happy with the outcome so then thought about scratch building my own. I decided to base it on the Monogram 427 kit and concluded if I could get the nose to look acceptable the rest would follow. Well I have done the nose and I'm happy with the result, it may not be perfect but I feel it captures the "look" and there is no putty in it yet!! I'm now encouraged to have a go at the rear guards and if I can get these acceptable the rest will be easy. I chose the Monogram 427 because I'm pretty sure I can reverse engineer the suspension back to a leaf spring pretty easily by using some AMT parts & styrene, as I have done in changing the nose. I'll use the kit 427 and just add webers. I'll also use the kit exhaust which, although not in the right place will look OK, I hope!! I'll build it with an opening nose but I'm not sure about the rear or doors at the moment. I'm cheating a fair bit here but hopeful it will look the part when finished. Tks for looking. Dave B
  17. Great builds Shawn. Dave B
  18. I have received the decals from Indycal but when sizing the vent decals against the body I decided that the kit is out of proportion, it is too short between the leading edge of the door and the rear of the front wheel opening. The front wheel openings themselves may also be a little small. As the body looks in perspective I decided to open the vents to suit the body instead of using the decals. Since it is a solid resin block this to a little work but I am happy with how it is coming along. Tks for looking and comments appreciated, good or bad!
  19. These are great builds Gary, tks for posting. Dave B
  20. That's a great build Bernard, one of these days I may be brave enough to try a patina style build, but I don't think so!! Dave B
  21. Nice build William, Italeri do a reasonable model of the 250 SWB even without all your enhancements. Regards Dave B
  22. For the last 10 or so years I have normally built 50/60's sports/racing cars but while waiting for some decals to arrive I decided to pull out an old pickup kit I have had for some time . I decided to take myself back some years and customize it. Cab is chopped scale 4" and channeled 5", bed is sectioned 3", shortened 8" and rear guards sectioned 5", the chassis is shortened 8". Springs have been reset for a lower stance. The hemi motor, grill, headlights, tail lights and bench seat are from my parts box. The pickup bed is the timber planking used by model ship builders. Sprayed in auto acrylic Triumph Powder Blue and clear coated. It is my homage to the Chuck Porter shop truck. Tks for looking Dave B
  23. Nice build Phil, looks the part. Dave B
  24. Great build William, can't have too many GT40's. Dave B
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