iBorg

What version of a Mac are you running? Go to the Apple>About this Mac and post that. If its a G4 Mac, you may have to explore other version of Foxfire. If not, maybe I can help you figure something out. Mike

I'm looking for decals to reproduce this body of Dyno Don's Cougar. I know Slixx offers the version with the gold panels. I'd much rather have the version that preceded that and was featured in most of the car mags at the time. I've attached an image. Thanks, Mike

Your best choice chassis wise is the Revell Hawaiian. I'm not sure how close the wheelbase it but it should be real close. MIke

This is a common problem. The soft rubber that Revell used may last ten years before it won't support the weight of the model. One thing you can do is fill the inside of the rubber. I know some have used strips of the carpet padding foam rubber. Mike

Wow......great find. $16. I'll double your money. Mike

Beautiful pictures of a beautiful car.

Please note the topic was started in 2007! I'd love to have more details on how the engine was built.....but I'm not expecting it.

Maybe I'll get a kit done before it is released but I will be getting this as soon as I can. I see a pro stock in my future.

I think it shows really well although I wonder why you left the wheels chrome. I'm unaware of this being an option on either the TC's or TD's.

Either way here's to happy and healthy!

I think you've got a great looking car. The decals laid down perfectly. The paint is sweet. The glass looks in scale (how'd you replace it). May I also suggest looking at the wipers? They're there so you need to bare metal them or hit them with a silver Sharpie. On a contest table, that would eliminate you from further consideration.

If you're building a 1960-'64 Dragster, the Tony Nancy double kit is a great part source. The chassis for the Revellion was one of these. The Fuller chassis wasn't common but overall this is a great kit. TAKE your time, who ever said it was fidgety was dead on. It can be a challenge but the result is worth the effort. Mike

I can see why you'd be proud of it. I've got the same kit that I haven't been inspired to build. I'll remember your approach if I ever pull this one out.

I would love to have the Back in the Day series on Speed without Dale Jr's comments. Good show with a moronic commentator makes for a bad show.

There's also a Hot Rod feature on the restored car in the February, 2009 issue. Its referred to on their web site but there's no useful pictures. (changed a comma to a period)

I'm sticking with my numbers based upon where Dusters ran. I think the Gremlin, while a smaller car, was built like a tank and therefore had about the same weight. Mike

Having been called out by Bill, I guess I'll convert this to a work in progress. I'm not a real good person for a work in progress. That implies that I'll actually finish it, which based upon my completion rate is unlikely. The body for this kit is based on the AMT Mustang II funny car. Like most of the funny cars molded in the 70's it has it shares of issues. MPC had several bodies that simply were stock cars with molded in-place hoods. This Mustang II may be the worst. I started this about fifteen years ago, got disgusted and quit. Some elements of the body, AMT nailed, others look like the designers never saw a picture of an actual funny car. The greenhouse area is very close. The window trim is terribly off. The front end looks like it has a five mile per hour crash bumper on it. The body scales out to about a 100 inch wheelbase. The lower body panels have side trim with heavy rivets that indicate the body reinforcement trim is about a foot high up the body. It has header cut-outs that extend the full height of the body reinforcement trim. Finally that horrendous trim rolls under the body so greatly, that I doubt a real one would come out of the mold without damage. In searching for another started project, I found this and thought it was worth another try. Originally I filled the rear window and fabricated the spolier. The rear spoiler was easy to fabricate as the rear panel needs molded in. I used the gap at the top of the rear panel for the base of the spoiler and cut a wedge for the rest of the spoiler to fit into. You can tell most of the old work by the reddish brown body filler. This project stopped when I tried to extend the wheelbase. No matter what I tried, the extension kept on breaking loose. Out of boredom, I tried again. This time I shaped a piece of .250 Evergreen to the shape of the body and tried again. Initally I reinforced this joing with .15 plastic inside the body. I didn't like the appearance and eventually replaced it with fiberglass tape for plaster embedded in expoxy. After getting the wheelbase closer to accurate, there was still the matter of the body trim at the bottom. I removed it and then had a car with the desired wheelbase but with a body much shorter than desired. I then added a replacement panel cut in a wedge shape. This allowed me to regain the desired height, gave the body the wedge shape I desired and got rid of the inner curve of the AMT original. It was then time to move to the nose and rear of the body. This body was orginally molded with the federally mandated bumpers that could survive a five mile per hour impact. AMT molded this funny car body with these bumpers. To remedy this, the ends of the rear bumper were removed, narrowed and the re-attached. At this point the front end needed to be addressed. The bumper was narrowed, and then set back into the body. You can see in one of the pictures what was removed from the original front end. The original spoiler was also removed, sectioned into three sections and reattached. It was widened with the resulting gaps filled with Evergreen. It was closer to right. I then added a piece of half round Evergreen which was then filed to shape. I'm very happy with how this turned out. This may be my best body work. It needs additional refining but it is much closer to accurate than it was fifteen years ago. Next up the chassis......

What I find more enjoyable is to find an old built up and try to rescue it. It has its own uniwque challenges but not the sticker shock.....in most cases.

Ron was one of the first quality casters. Not quite Modelhaus but definetly better than his other competitors.

Hmmmm based upon what I remember from the early 70's ........ 304 would fall into E/MP, a 340 would be D/MP. Dual carb, hi-riser manifold. Injectors or blower would push it into a gasser class. The chassis would be modified stock, more than likely with subframe connectors. At least a roll bar with possibly a full roll cage. Need two seats or a bench seat with rear seat delete being legal. Hope this helps.

Is it possible to change the title of a post. I posted looking for information on a specific car. Now I'd like to convert the post to a WIP. Is that possible? Thanks, Mike

I know there's a way to glue the Monogram rear slicks to "mold" the two parts together. Suggestions?

A great reminder that there was less to those golden years than we'd like to remember. I gained a lot of respect for Jackie Stewart. I also loss respect for another hero..... If you haven't seen it, you should watch it.

If we're wishing....what about a '27 Ford. I hasve at least three projects that I'd love to build. They are available in resin, Jimmy Flintstone for one, but I'd like a more consistent casting than the JF one.

Well I don't jhave the ads now but I also don't have the latest posts pop-up. I found that very helpful. I'm using Firefox. Any idea how to recover them? Thanks, Mike