Dave Van

Unreal work!!

Thanks for the info and your hard work.

Thanks!!!

Great build subject...but owning 2 AMC I am bias! I make the Booth decals and would like to do the Shirley Gremlin....any more info/pics??

Is there a way to order issue #207 as a back issue??? Or any older issues?? I looked on the website but could not find any info. Congreats on getting things rolling

Wonder if Chuck would mail me one???

A spec engine purposed came directly from NASCAR. When the idea came up Ford, I know, said that would end their stay in NASCAR.....pretty sure Toyota did same.....I just do not have any connections to Toyota. While you are correct it will not happen in 2022-23 if is NOT 100% off the table. I know the single lug goes with the new wheels. I am saying KEEP the current wheel set up. Cup cars do not NEED alloy 18 wheels and the using of 15 5 lug creates a lot of factors that IMHO only help the racing. The ancient current wheel/tire/brake combo bring out the best in drivers and pit crews. A spec chassis will also take away much of the innovation that teams worked hard to get an advantage. When F1 goes to a spec chassis I'll buy in. Again all just a old mans opinion!

I've been into NASCAR since I went to a race with Dad at Riverside 1965. I have held a NASCAR sponsor license. But this car is just a 2010 SCCA Trans Am series car without the opening door. From all I have read the car uses many of the same components. If they just want to copy another series that's fine.....but not 'ground breaking'. F1 stayed with the 13 inch wheels for years to keep development down. I kinda wish NASCAR had stayed with the 15 inch wheels with 5 lugs.....tradition and made for longer pit stops. More chance for errors. And the deal where teams can no longer build or modify the chassis and they are looking at a spec Chevy engine means NASCAR will go to the same place ASA did after they did the same. The first race with a spec Chevy engine will be the first race without a single Ford or however in it.....36 Camaros!!!!!Oh well.....

Buying on ebay is about perfect....no issue there..... I don't like the sellers address??? I can return item with ZERO cost to me!!!!!Better than WalMart!!!!! Also remember that ebay takes a percentage of your shipping cost.....so if you charge actual cost you loose money. Just be informed......if you like ebay?? FANTASTIC....I may buy from you......but if I don't like the type of box you used to ship....it will cost YOU.

FULLY understand the ebay policy of the buyer is right no matter what. The last model I sold on ebay was mint sealed. It sold for $30. The buyer decided he did not like the kit and asked to return it. So I had to pay to return the kit. So all my effort I lost $11 and it took weeks to get my refund from paypal. Just be aware of all the fees, real costs and the fact it may cost you $$ because the buyers Mom did not like them buying toys. Also new ebay policy on holding funds is a pain and they want control of your PP account. ebay was my way of selling my line of decals from 1997 until a few years ago. They seem to be doing their best to kill the goose. IMHO Only

Fantastic work! Where are the tires from?

I built a model of it already.......

Neat cars IMHO

Easier to clone a new tool from a vintage kit......so much has been altered since......

I went out of town WED and stopped at Ollies.....got two flat bed trailers as we never got them, also picked up another Stage Coach as I like the first one and it was the last one they had....we never got them either.

GREAT as always!!!

One more item that will help the fit..... Grind chassis where marked....will make interior fit better.

Owner of two AMC....I like! FYI the chassis needs to be wider....it is to narrow. I added a strip on each side....3/16" maybe??

You can get silvering with world class glossy paint. If glue is old and does not seal you ge tit. I decal carrier film is old and stiff you get it. Solvaset MAY help with all these issues.

Two possible reasons: !. Silvering. This is were air gets trapped under the film and thus shows up in a silver like color. This can be caused by a few different things., Rough surface the decal applied to. Decals need a good glossy surface. A second issue can be application. The decal needs to be applied in a way that the air is removed. Slide decal from paper directly to surface. Use a folded paper towel and push the glue and air out from under the film. Often a decal setting solution is needed. I use Walthers Solvaset. You may be able to fix by using the tip of a new #11 blade to make tiny cuts in the film.....apply Solvaset over decal and work it into the decal. 2. Glue is or has gone bad. Cheap decal paper has glue that is brown and shows' after it dries. The glue can also go bad when espoused to moisture, heat, light or just age. No easy fix here. I have been making decals since I was about 10 years old. This is my own experience. Thanks

Cool.......I'd like to pretend that one of those 46 Ford's rolling off the line is mine!!!! I've wanted to know the cars history since I bought it.......where it was sold when new......but those records are all gone due to a fire at Ford in the 50's Also cool in that my youngest son is starting work at a auto plant soon.....but methods are a bit different today. To get hired he had to work on a mock assembly line...very different from a 46 line!

Many of my decals are designed to use wo layers to make sure no bleed through. Big point is allow layer one to dry overnight or 24 hrs. Then layer two and allow to dry before clear.

Keep telling myself I will build one someday. I did build a Donlevy 71 Mercury way back, hand painted as there were no aftermarket decals yet! I even put a set of Trucmore decals in the MK version of the kit. Yours is super clean build as always

Funny....I LOVE 'Nothing but Trouble'.......You gotta turn the brain off and watch Demi.......'I GET DIANE'! John Cany's car