David G.

Thank you Chaz. I haven't made a final decision on the configuration yet but here is the photo that inspired my color choice. It also looks like this one might have a continental bump that's color matched to the roof. I'm not sure if I want to go that route but it would be right for the time period. Thanks again for the input Chaz. David G.

Nice progress, the test fit looks good. David G.

Mr. J. be stylin! Very cool, thanks for posting it. David G.

There's really not too much to this one and I debated the thought of even doing a WIP for it. But since there was a bit of a process, I thought I'd post the pics. This kit includes two figures, the standing one that is featured here and one intended to be mounted on the Bat-Pod. I've done enough basic work on the mounted figure to know that fitting it to my already constructed Bat-Pod will take a good bit of work. I'll detail that in a separate WIP when I crack into it. The first paint configuration is based on the following photo. The Dupli-Color flat black was just a little to shiny for my liking and the gray didn't work out as well as I hoped. It looked to me like he was wearing a Bat-Bra. I managed to remove the Tamiya German Gray with thinner and micro swabs but ran into trouble when I sprayed the figure with Tamiya flat clear. The super hero went into the Super Clean for paint removal. After more than a week in the drink, here is my second attempt. The flat black laid down with much more "flat" than the first attempt and I think I finally have a good lip color. The Bat emblem on the chest is brush-painted with a layer of Tamiya X-22 Clear. I haven't quite decided yet, but I may dull that down just a little. I'm also trying to work out if I want to try a little highlighting on the body armor with an extremely dark gray... or a slightly lightened black. I do have concerns about mucking it up again. Any advice from experienced figure painters would be greatly appreciated. Here's a shot of the cape which is cleverly designed to act as the third leg in the tripod configuration that keeps the figure standing upright. Some of the mat finish has been polished by handling but I can give another shot of flat clear right before final assembly. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G.

A rather wicked looking paint scheme. David G.

Wow, that's still a lot of detail Si, quite impressive. I built one naval vessel with PE and it really tested my skills. It probably had less PE in total than what you've already placed on your current project. It was the vessel that my brother served on in the US Navy. A bummer about the lost part though. Some of these kits provide some redundancy for just such an occasion, no luck here? Or maybe haunt a couple of the military builder sites to see if you can latch onto a replacement. Regards, David G.

Nicely Done! David G.

Your work with figures is truly amazing. David G.

Ah, I remember when my hands were that steady, not so much any more. Excellent job! That kind of work takes a lot of patience. David G.

Wow, even more impressive. David G.

Excellent color choice! This is a great kit, I really enjoyed building mine. I can't wait to see where you go with yours. David G.

Great work so far! I've been working on one of these off and on for a few years now. I'm using a Monogram 59 Cadillac convertible as a donor so I can put a full chassis under it. It's quite a lot of work. What are your plans for the interior on yours? David G.

The paint looks perfect! Everything else looks great too, love the under hood detail. David G.

Beautiful hotrod roadster! Clean and classy all around. David G.

Sweet lowrider! Excellent paint and striping. Is the lace paint or a decal? David G.

Nice work. Those decals must have been a real challenge. David G.

Excellent work! One of my all-time favorite cars. David G.

Beautiful work on all three, museum quality! David G.

Very Cool Ray! I agree with @Lunajammer It fits right in with the Sixties era Batman. Robin: "To the Batmobile?" Batman: "Not tonight Chum, we'll take the Bat-Cobra. I feel the need to do the Batusi." The size difference between the Keaton-Mobiles is astounding, it's almost like the difference between 1:25 and 1:32. I have one of the Moebius Batman vs Superman Batmobiles in my stash along with a Green Strawberry PE kit that I ordered for it. I haven't started it yet because I find it a bit intimidating. It is on the short list though. Yours looks great! What paint did you use for it? David G.

Hello Everyone! By this point with most of my builds I would have done a color test shot. I usually do this with the hood but this model is a curbside and the hood is cast as part of the body so I just didn't think of it until now. The next best option is the continental piece for the decklid, so here it is. The main body will be Tamiya TS-42 Light Gunmetal and the landau will be Tamiya TS-40 Metallic Black. I still haven't decided if I'm going to paint the roof or the landau black as I've seen it both ways and I can't decide which I like better. As always, thanks for taking the time to look. David G.

Thank you Gareth. I was puzzled over why AMT cast the spotlight holes on the outside rather than the inside like all the other holes that were cast into the body. Especially in an area so rich with detail. Thanks Joe. I always try to do good work. It doesn't always work out that way, but most times it does. Thank You. It's flush at the joint along the header area, I even got a little adhesive "squeeze out" when I pressed the parts together. That's the largest and most visible area of that assembly and I pretty much achieved the fit I wanted for it. I felt that if I tried to do much more with the fit at the corners it might cause problems with the fit at the header. I've messed up my share of projects by overworking them, as the saying goes- "All art is knowing when to stop." and that's the point at which I stopped. The fit on the corners is a little rough but the areas are small enough that I feel I can easily use putty to back-fill and smooth them over. I also need to find a way to continue the drip rail trim so it mates with the trim around the windshield. I'm planning on using strips of styrene for this too which should help to hide any imperfections in those places. Thanks for taking the time to share your advice David, I truly appreciate any and all tips and pointers as they've helped me out more times than I can count. Regards, David G.

Excellent work so far, the wheels and brakes look great. For the gap? I would just add a styrene strip of appropriate thickness to the inside of the opening in the body. David G.

Excellent model, everything looks spot-on! What's the approximate scale? On a side note... When I first saw these characters in the movie, I immediately thought that it looked like they were wearing space suits designed for Skeses. David G.

Hello Everybody! The next task is fitting the roof to the body. First I added some styrene to the lead edge of the roof to fill the small gap there. Then I added some styrene to redefine and sharpen the lines of the lower ends of the rear pillars where they mount to the body. After cleaning up and smoothing these areas, it was time for a test fit. Though a more positive and stable fit for the roof was created by the addition of the material, this also shifted the gaps to the areas just above the wing vents. Not a bad thing. Time for more styrene! The stock I had on hand was the correct thickness but twice as wide as I needed so I cut my length then split the piece down the center. I used Tamiya extra thin cement to glue the strips to the tops of the wing vents. I also made a small relief cut in the areas just behind the windshield frame to allow the strips to abut against the frame hopefully allowing for a smoother transition at the juncture. I put the whole mess together for another test fit. It looks like this should address most of the alignment issues. After allowing the strips to cure for a few hours, I trimmed and shaped them. The next step is permanent installation of the roof. There will, of course be more filling and adjusting required but all the contact points are smooth and even and that's a good place to start. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G.

I cant wait to see how you work that in. David G.