David G.

Thanks Mike. Flocking the cargo area would work to cover the marks if they were back-filled and leveled. I had considered that as a solution but in my research, wasn't able to to find any examples of carpeted cargo areas on these particular wagons. Additionally, given the ridges cast into the floor, I would likely have had to completely level the cargo floor to remove those to have a uniform surface. More work than I wanted to do. I had also considered making aftermarket floor mats and various types of cargo before I discovered the sheet styrene in my stock. (I still plan on using a grocery bag or two.) Best regards, David G.

Now back to our regularly scheduled program. Thanks David. I've started testing some colors and I found a nice light tan as a base, Tamiya Light Sand TS 46. I tried their NATO Brown XF 68 with it but found it too dark for for my tastes. I have the NATO brown removed and I'm planning on using Tamiya Flat Earth (hee-hee) XF 52. I haven't decided if the cargo area floor and tailgate will remain in gold or or be painted Light Sand or Flat Earth. The dash is very close to completion so it will probably remain in gold. Thanks, David G.

Smooooth and Deadly! David G.

Excellent work all around. The cushions are especially cool. David G.

Wow! From back when Stockcars were stock cars. Nicely done! David G.

Thanks John. I guess great minds think alike! Too bad you no longer have them. David G.

Thanks Tom, I'm glad you like it. Thank you for saying so Curtis. David G.

Thank you very much for saying so. I do try to do the best I can at both. David G.

Thanks Jim. David G.

Thanks Snake, you ought to crack into it. Thank you David. For the interior colors I'm working with tans and browns, trying to come up with a good looking combination. David G.

OK, I have some color on the wagon and I'm rather happy with my selection. It just looks right on this car. I also happened to catch a video Chris at hpiguys Workshop uploaded just yesterday wherein he builds the latest version of this kit in Sage Green. Here's a link. This is the first color coat. I usually foil the trim after spraying a light coat of primer. This gives the foil something to stick to and helps reduce the chances of the paint adding an unwanted pebbly texture to the foil. I've also black-washed the grille and hubcaps. I have wanted to build a model car in gold for some time now and I believe this one is a good choice. The other one I was considering is a 1975 Dodge Dart. Also a good choice but that one may end up in silver now. In the outdoor shot, the color looks much closer to Chevrolet's Gold paint of that era. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to post a comment. David G.

Thank you Tom. It's kind of you to say so. David G.

Wow Si, you've had quite a voyage on this section. You must be getting eager to see it in paint. David G.

Somewhere out there, maybe even on this forum, there's a tutorial on making a 1:25 Mexican blanket using cellophane tape and embroidery floss. I can also see the tissue and white glue working well. Maybe a piece of folded paper napkin or paper towel to give it some thickness, then soak it down with a mixture of white glue and water. Then place it on the back seat as you'd like it to look when finished. You'd want cover the seat with plastic wrap to keep the glue from bonding to it as the "quilt" cures. Once it has cured you could paint it up or download a quilt print from the internet and make a decal. Of course, all that may be more work than it's worth, but this is a hobby and the work is worth what it's worth. Best regards, David G.

Thank you Tom. David G.

Thanks Jason, I'm just a little bummed that it took me so long to come up with the idea. Thanks George. AWB, the original funny cars. I have two Lindberg '64 Ramchargers and I want to build one as an AWB racer but I currently lack the courage to start hacking it apart. David G.

Looking good Geoff! Surprisingly, this is one classic that I haven't built yet. A model car builder who hasn't built his own '57 Chevy is rather like a rock band that has never played a version of Chuck Berry's Roll Over Beethoven. I'm going to have to address that. David G.

I'm still following along and I'm still amazed! In the decade I've been a part of this community I've learned more from threads like this than probably any other source. Thank you for taking the time to share the process with us. David G.

Very cool idea for the roof rack! The ice chests will be a nice touch too. Now all you need is a nice fluffy blanket in the back and a beach umbrella to tie to the roof rack. David G.

Wow! Beautiful work on what seems to be a rather challenging kit. Do you plan on being at the Desert Scale Classic in the spring? If so, I'd love the chance to see this one in person. David G.

Nicely done! I love these vintage racers. Do you have plans to add any decals or other markings? David G.

What can I say that hasn't already been said? You've put together a fabulously detailed, museum-worthy model. Most impressive work! David G.

The bane of model builders everywhere- ejector pin marks! On the floor in the passenger area, they're not so bad but in the cargo area? Those will be very visible when the model is completed. I spent probably more time than I should have trying to come up with various ways to address those blasted marks. Filling, sanding and re-sculpting was unlikely to yield good results. So I decided to see about adding some cargo to cover them up. I even went so far as to fabricate some paper grocery bags for the "grocery getter". Unfortunately, coming up with groceries with which to fill them was more challenging than I anticipated. Luckily, I found some sheet styrene left over from my model railroading days that had a suitable pattern. I think this will work. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G.

Thanks. It's almost identical to the '65. By the way, if you want to trade that 250 L-6, let me know. I'm looking for one for a project. David G.

Thanks Ricky. For the color I'm using Duplicolor Sunburst Gold. If it fits, using the chassis from the 66 would be a good choice. I like the body on this kit but the chassis and tub interior? bleah. Thank you Snake. I agree, the scripts and badges are great on this one. Thanks for the tip. For cars of this era, I usually check to see what kind of filler is between the bumpers and body work. My plans for this one are to detail that bit with paint rather than to try to cut out the middle section. If you want, feel free to drop a couple of shots of that '64 gluebomb here. I like those old survivors, there's something special about them. Yes it would Barry, and with all the drag racing parts in this kit, that would be an easy build. Thanks for your comment Jason. Despite its simple chassis, this is a rather good kit and provides a number of build options: factory stock, custom, drag racing and race crew car. The body details are nice and the only complaint I have is the four big ejector pin marks on the cargo deck. Up to this point, nearly half of the time I've spent on this kit has been trying to find a way to address those pin marks. David G.