Cool Hand

Of to a good to start, liking the direction you are going with the build.

Liking the idea you have going on for this build. Have a similar idea planned for one of the snap kits in the stash

Looks like you are having fun with this build Ismo, good job on the scratch building as always.

Have always liked and enjoy seeing your builds Roger. Well done on all of them.

Getting a couple small parts painted to keep the motivation on going. Applied to some Alclad ALC-105 polished aluminum to the air tank and compressor's. Applied some BMF to the ignition coil covers, then sprayed the whole valve covers a custom mix of TS-44 brilliant blue and TS-10 french blue. Once touch dry, soaked a cue tip in Mr levelling thinner and removed the paint from the raised detail on the coil cover. Not the best pic, but you get the idea.

So there was a fitment issue with the engine. The exhaust manifolds were hitting the inner fenders. It was mainly at the front more than the back though. So decided to remove some material to gain clearance. Used these bits in the Dremel Micro. Before. After removing some material. And brushed on some black for a quick touch up. Now to attach the chassis frame to floor pan. Fingers crossed I can get it done cleanly with minimal glue mishaps.

Thanks for all the comments very much appreciated I just modified the one supplied in the kit. Cut in a notch and added some sheet styrene. Yeah made out of a sprue frame from Revell chopper kit front fender. I find wearing gloves at all times when handling parts painted black helps to keep them clean Yes sir, straight from the can finish. Ive had many years of practice doing so many Tamiya TS-14 black paint jobs. As previously shown the surface the paint is applied to is key. The TS-14 paint is applied in one continuous build up of coats. Start with a very light coat and continue to build up the coats until its a smooth wet look. Its a fine line between super wet look and the paint running. Just takes some practice to become familiar with how much paint can be applied before it runs. When it all comes together the wheels should suit the style of build. Im the same, need to admit defeat and go get some prescription glasses. One day.......

Dug this one out and made of bit of progress. Want to finish it before the years end. Worked on the engine and chassis frame. Quick suss on the floor pan. Tried to add some extra details to the engine. Fuel lines, throttle linkage and return spring. Fun task with failing eye sight. Rough engine mock in the frame, not game to glue it in place yet. As I reckon there is going to be issues with the exhaust manifolds hitting the inner fenders.

As per usual a killa looking build Nick. Well done.

Try placing the body parts in a zip lock bag and spray alot of oven cleaner into the bag then seal and leave it for a couple days. Also helps to move the parts around in the sealed bag to keep them constantly coated with the cleaner.

Applied some 1500 surfacer to all the parts.

LOL! plenty more tools and supplies I could recommend to spend your money for ya. You will like the cutter its excellent quality.

Check out the Fujimi seats Bill. They ridiculously small, could pass for a go kart seat LOL!

Just curious are you referring to the actual Fujimi seats, or 1:1 seats ??

By you saying tiny, I think of the seats in this set. If you want some pics with measurements let me know.

Judging by your Gundam builds you will have no worries building an Automotive subject. Look forward to seeing how the Skyline turns out.

Bit of progress, got lucky and was able to fit up the Shelby radiator with very little effort. Few strips of styrene to hold it in place. Also smoothed out the fire wall. Just need to figure out the inner fenders, do some body and prep work. Then time start shooting 1500 surfacer and paint.

Thanks and yeah getting a bit done here and there when im in the mood. Hardest part I find with a scratch built chassis, is getting it look some what scale accurate. Using a layout is the easiest way to design and build a frame/chassis. Laying frame would have been sweet, but using the 23's kinda limited how much it could be dropped. Yes mate it will be purple like the original build. Hobby design products are excellent.

Making some good progress there Steve, thanks for sharing the tips on how you are going about dropping the ride height. Looking forward to a stance mock.

Interesting colour selection, those AK Extreme Metal paints sure do spray nice. You going oob stock build ??

Nice bit of sculpting on those fender flare's, keeping the original lip is a pretty trick idea.

Appreciate the comments Anton and Trevor Stock strips up to 3mm thick use a RP Toolz chopper, for the rest use a razor saw in the mitre box. Got a more few things done. Scratch built a fuel tank to go in the back of the frame. Bed/tray floor. Wheel tubs. Scratch built air tank and solenoids, to go with 3D printed compressor's. Got the compressor's from an old mate a few years back. New trans tunnel and seats. The seats from Hobby Design.

Thanks mate, glad the hard part is out the way. Can move on to finalizing some other area's, then prep and start shooting some surfacer and paint.

Thanks for the kinds words. It does, but its only a top half insert. Not as well detailed as Tamiya's R32. But I feel the Aoshima kit has a nicer body and is simpler to build . Speaking of simpler, the chassis is basic and has molded in detail. So had to get creative and use liquid mask.

Previous build. Built from this kit. Wheels. Paint. Inspiration for the colour from this.