espo

I will look forward to seeing the "67 Impala. The '66 Impala body style, also shared with the '65, in my eyes has always been very desirable. I had a friend who bought a new '65 Impala SS in that color. I liked the car so well I went down and bought a new '66 Impala SS in Danube Blue with Black Interior. It was a 325/396 car with a 4-speed and was equipped with the F41 Suspension and the Posi.rear end. Great handling car but I lived in the mountains and the brakes would fade quickly if you were really driving it hard. Again please post the "67 IMpala as that was also a great looking Chevy.

Great looking build and it definitely has the look of the car used in the movie.

Beautiful looking redo on this. You were very fortunate to even find a "66 Impala SS Promo. That was a very popular shade of Yellow at that time. You mentioned polishing the original surface of the body and it looks almost better than paint.

Beautiful looking De Soto. We had a neighbor that had a "57 with much the same color combination. Unfortunately they didn't keep it in the garage and the mid-west winters were having their way with the finish, a real shame.

Excellent Showroom style build. All of the little trim details look correct.

Very impressive attention to the smallest of detail on your build. I'll enjoy watching this.

That would be a great idea. Should simplify the conversion if that is the direction on this build. I don't usually build to many Street Rods but this idea is starting to "sound very interesting" as Cpt. Klink used to say.

I think the tandem engine setup might be the easiest to do but you will end up with a longer chassis to contain the engines. Another idea to consider is side by side much like some of the duel engines Dragsters from long ago. The side by side would look just as impressive if not for so and the chassis would remain about the same size as now. What ever you do please share pictures of your build.

While that's true you did it in 1/25th plastic and it looks just like it was done long ago, so an ataboy on that. You mentioned wanting to have the letters and numbers raised on the license plate. I don't know if there is any photo etched lettering that would be in the proper scale, but it was just a thought. Will this stay in Black Primer or go glossy in some other color ?

I tried to open your message and I think the problem is I'm not on Face Book and it will not let me in to read your message. I would like to here from you about any additional information you may have. We'll have to figure out another way I guess.

Great looking build. Besides the detailing that you did it looks well engineered enough to be streetable . I like looking at and trying to figure out the source of all the different parts that went into this build.

Look'n good. One of my all time favorite kits. I like your Carson Top type treatment.

To bad about the paint crazing. There is always that outside chance that the paint job can be ruined using automotive or "Hotter" paints. Sometimes just staying with the same brand of after market paints works better. I hope you can get the finish to where you want it.

Very clean detailing on the body trim and the engine. Nice to see the Wide Whites for a change.

I think that with a little work on the front bumper you could easily emulate the "California" bumper. The kits bumper has some relief lines to represent the less desirable front bumper used primarily where streets were heavily salted. You could sand down the kits bumper and fill the lines with filler, but I would recommend just stripping the entire bumper and after making the changes to the bumper use your favorite chroming method on the bumper.

Sorry to hear of your loss. We'll hold you and your family in our prayers.

I like the "shadow box" license plate mounting.

I happened to be at the Winter Nationals when Ford showed up with the Thunderbolts and I think that memory is why I prefer the '64 model. I think either one would work as it would just depend on your personal preference. The Revell kit makes it pretty simple to build a '64 Drag Car, but this kit could just as easily be used to build a '63 body into a Drag Car.

Have you tried using Bare-Metal Foil on small engine parts ? I have done Valve Covers and Air Cleaner tops along with other small parts. I use the Tamiya pointed cotton tips to work the foil around the parts details. I start in the middle of the part and slowly work the foil into the parts smaller details with the pointed cotton tips. The pointed tips work great in getting the foil to conform to the shape of just about anything.

Kurt, your picture is making me laugh at myself right now. Not ten minuets ago this was me on our back deck trying to encourage the Geese that they should stay on the lake and off our grass. Mine is a '177 so it just makes life a little uncomfortable for them, but they're slow learners.

I thought that might of been the case. I have built several of these kits through the years but I'm more of a street machine type builder so I don't build but a hand full of these then.

From the top shot picture it looks as if the builder was trying to replicate the '58 Ford 4-light tail lamps. At one time AMT offered a lot of different front and rear body treatments and with this it looks as if some may of even come from other AMT kits of the time. I still have some of those style decals in my stash from back then, I'm sur they would be unusable today. Nice save here.

Looks neat. When that model first came out and the 1:1 was first on the streets the Maroon color was very popular. Besides the nice detailing of trim in your restoration the color choice makes it look richer to me anyway.

This looks like an old AMT annual. They used to have plastic inserts to glue into the chassis plate. These would have two sets of holes, one for stock and one for lowering the ride height. I agree the photos are out of focus but I'd grab this in a second since it looks like a relatively easy restoration project or just clean it up and display it as a blast from the past.

I always glue the wheels to the axels for a couple of reasons. #1 So they can be positioned parallel to each other. #2 So the model will not roll of the shelve or display area. Now something I learned reading the information provided by others is that I've been building for years and never thought of "Flat Spotting" the tires to simulate a tire under the weight of a real car. This could also compensate for any slight difference in ride height of the model. Makes perfect sense, just wonder why I never thought of it. Thank you.