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I think like many builders I become distracted when a new idea pops into my head for a different model than the one I'm about 25 to 30 % done. That seems to be the time line on the ones I have set aside. I found at first this seemed to be triggered by having 2 or more projects going at the same time. I started limiting myself to one build at a time start to finish. Lately, this year anyway, I have one build that I got about 50 % done before I boxed it up. This one is a Corvair with an LS engine in the back seat. I went on to build a few all the way thru. Now I'm coming to a halt on the reissue AMT '60 Chevy pickup. This one is my version of a Cameo pickup prototype. I added all of the additional chrome trim and opened up the rear window and dressed up the interior. I'm at the point where I'm putting a "348" optional engine in it and I just feel like I've hit a wall. The interest just isn't there any longer. The box is starting to close on this one I'm afraid. I just want to build another Hot Rod or mild Kustom.

I remember in the early '70's when a lot of guys were putting small blocks in their Vegas there was another guy running around town with a dark brown Pinto Hatchback with a hot 289 in it. That thing would fly. I'm thinking that's the way I'll build mine with a Cobra equipped small block Ford engine. It will not be brown .

Beautiful looking Chevelle. I like how you did your stripes better than the Yenko stripes. The Rally Wheels look better than alloys on a build like this.

On the OEM's the bottom of the front struts don't allow the front tires or spindle to be raised. If you shorten the top of the strut this would allow the front tire and suspension to move up and lower the front and just shorter rear springs for the independent rear suspension. Maybe that could help on the 1/24th ?

Now that's what has been missing in my little corner of the house. A nice full bodied Zinfandel with a smooth finish. I don't think Lacquer would do anything for the wine's "nose" ..

I like the expression "mucking about", I think it better describes what you're doing wrong. I have used a pin to give the captive air trapped under the decal a way to get out.

This turned out beautifully. I was following your build and then I didn't see it here until now. I was wondering what had happened to this one.

Very creative especially with the limited resources that you had. I'm really impressed with your paint work on this.

I agree with Snake on the color. I have used it a few times and that is what came to mind to me also. Nice looking so far, did you paint the stripes or were you able to get that good of coverage with just one set of the white decals ?

I didn't realize the larger scale. That would explain why it cost so much.

The '67 Frame looks like a perfect fit.

Since you're in Michigan and I notice a shade of Blue on the chassis that looks like a Michigan H.P. color is that the direction of this build ?

The Scale Motor Sport decals are great, I have used them on several builds, but they don't like to be man handled. They are very thin and can easily start tearing if you're not carful. Wet the surface well where you are placing them and a drop of Solvaset will get them to lay down on any irregular surfaces. When dry be sure to give them a light coat of Flat or Semi-Gloss to seal them.

I like the way you detailed the interior. Very nice color combination between the body and the interior.

This must be quite a kit at $60. Your daughter got it for you for Christmas so you must build it. I would think $60 would buy you a couple of really great kits with lots of details including the engines.

So this Charger is to replace the Challenger ? I always enjoy your stories and your builds. I also have this kit but haven't touched it yet. I used a PD issue of this kit to replicate our now replaced '10 Charger RT AWD.

Another product to consider when ting down a model. Monofilament Fishing Line. This can be found at most any store that has a fishing section. I got mine at You All Mart and it's offered in many different thicknesses and even colors in addition to clear. Very inexpensive which is how I discovered it.

That really looks good.

In 1966 these prices represented a LOT of money. Hard to relate just how much ? In 1966 I bought a new '66 Chevrolet Impala SS with the 396 engine, 4-speed, with positraction. The chassis had the F-41 Sport Suspension with HD Shocks and front and rear sway bars. The interior had the full instrumentation package. This put a Tach. where the clock wound normally be plus a four gage stack between the consul and the bottom of the dash board. This gave you oil pressure, amp gauge, water temp., and clock. Sounds were provided by an AM radio and rear seat speaker. MSRP was $3600.00 in 1969. Does this help put the Shelby price list in prospective ? Not saying it wasn't worth what they were asking but it can be difficult to relate to prices from 50 plus years ago.

When I looked at the first picture I knew something was different but just looked so good. Then you notice the chopped top and how smoothly it is blended into the body it just looks like that's how it is supposed to be. I like the Hub Caps, they remind me if the old Moon full wheel covers. Great stance and the paint and finish shows a lot of reflection from it's surroundings.

Looking at the picture I thought you had already polished it. My last build with this paint was a '56 Chevy sedan delivery street rod. I do like this color.

Your pattern design for the interior is ingenious. The finished panels look as good as any of the decal Leopard skins I have seen.

I have some times been called "the troll from the basement". My office is a more common reference. The reality it is a finished bedroom in the basement with windows looking out on the back yard with heat and A/C overhead fan and light kit. I have an old roll top desk as a work surface and a computer table for that. Book shelves to display past builds and some reference materials. A walk-in closet for additional storage plus storage un the unfinished part of the basement. I have no reason to feel sorry for myself and spend as much free time as I can down in the "Dungeon".

If the frame has glue damage, depending on how bad it is, try sanding the surface as smooth as possible then use a small amount of filler to the areas that are below the surrounding level frame. This will all take some time and effort but give you satisfaction if you are able to save it. The alternative is to of course replace the frame if you have one. Seems like a waste to buy another kit just to get a frame unless there are other parts that you can use on this build.

You say this build fought you, but it looks as though you won. Very nice paint and clean looking trim. I like the white interior also.