espo

Thank you for sharing your pictures. Seems like some NASCAR builders are returning to the table tops.

Very nice looking build. I like the contrast between the body color and the interior. Like '70 Grande I would also like to see the engine and chassis if possible.

Very clean looking build. This looks like it just drove off of the box.

These are both great looking builds. I think the Amethyst Red color is interesting, has an almost Purple/Maroon looking finish.

I was catching up on how this build was going. I hadn't seen the pictures of your 1:1 Ford before. That was one clean machine.

I like how you fogged in the gray/black color.

I like the red on red, that really looks good.

Pretty radical surgery, but that's about all you could do with that body. The body and trim looked very sharp even warped. I like the Nomad roof idea.

Used the push and ridding mower to mulch all the leaves in the yard. I cut back most of the flowers in the flower beds. Put Sta-Bil in all of the gas powered equipment and brought in the hose real from the outside before it freezes. Tomorrow I'm going to service the snow blower and adjust the blade height. I hate doing this when it gets really cold. I'll also run the sprinklers one last time and then pull the stab out of the lake and drain the system for the winter. All of this is much easier to do as day time temps start to dip and I don't freeze any of my extremities. Maybe finish with a hot buttered rum just to get into the winter spirit.

A few years ago some model builders were doing something like this. They would spray different colors of spray paint on top of the water in a container that was big enough to lower the models body into the container. They would then slowly raise the body out of the water and set it aside to dry. Some would create a swirl pattern on the waters surface or even turn the body slightly as they removed it. The effects you can work on to what ever look you're going for.

Do you have a John Deere dealership or repair facility near you ? These places often have the exact color in spray cans. Maybe, but not necessarily. a Home Depot or a Lowe's home & garden that sells their mowers may have spray paint also.

I think that the letter designation in the different drag classes had to do with a formula having to do with the cars weight and the engines cubic inch displacement. Should the vehicle have a super charger then the designation changes too the upper letter would be doubled, I.E. if A is where the race car landed in the class an AA would denote a super charger on the engine. The other way this was denoted was in the class's lower letter, in this case a G denoting the race car was in a gas class. The letter S would follow the G or sometimes they would actually spell out "Super Charged" after the letter G. The interesting thing about this kit, and it is a great kit, has to do with the engine options. The duel quad set up was actually an option on the stock car in 1957. The kit as Revell has provided would be a Gasser based on alterations to the car other than the engine. The altered suspension and or ride height would move it out of the stock classes. The removal of the front bumper and the addition of the gas tank mounted on the front and the stated increased cu. in. engine displacement would move it to a Gas class.

Thom Taylor always had some great ideas for hot rods and customs. He was an outstanding artiest. An interesting note on this subject. Most of these ideas and drawings were just that, drawings. I used to work with a guy years ago who was and had been a graphic artiest. I asked him why he had changed his career since he did several drawings as sort of a fun thing at work. He said that cad drawing had put his job in the history books as the cad drawings were so much easier and companies could pay a cad arties less money than someone who could do a drawing more or less free hand.

While I would stay with the tudoor version it wouldn't be that hard to convert this to a four door. The front doors would be shorter on a four door so you would just cut new door opening lines for the shorter door, then move the "B" pillar forward a little and then cut rear door lines in the body. The interior would require much the same process. This is a very nice looking Resin Cast kit and I'm sure it wasn't cheep, so it just depends on your willingness to make the leap on the conversion. I would like to see how this build progresses either way.

I have those same decals and have never figured out where I'm going to use them. Thanks for the idea.

This is one of the best looking '40 I've seen in a long time. The paint finish and color are finished nice and smooth. The color and flams really work well with this body style. I like how you redid the chassis and suspension. This should be displayed on top of a mirror to show off the Chassis. Nice to see a Ford in a Ford.

Beautiful looking Mustang. The paint finish looks great and the detailing of the engine and chassis really look good also. I'm also a fan of the Tamiya TS-11 color.

Everyone should take a minute and read their insurance policies. Be sure you have "Uninsured Motorist" coverage. This will cover you if the other driver doesn't have insurance or is underinsured. In the fall of 1965 I took delivery of a new 1966 Impala SS. I lived in the mountains above San Bernardino California. The day I toke delivery at the dealership, that was at Sea Level, it was in the low 70 degrees. Living at over 3000 feet altitude the temperature was very different the next morning when I left for work. The temps were in the upper 20's and about 4 to 5 inches of fresh snow on the ground. I was pulling away from a stop sign when one of the workers at the gas station came roaring out onto the road. He had managed to clear a postage stamp size clearing on his windshield in order to see and since the truck had been parked outside all night he fell it was best to race the engine before he could keep it running and didn't want to wait a few minutes for the heater to defrost the windows. He never saw me until he hit the driver's side front bumper on the very end. The good news was that since the road was covered with snow and ice. The impact spun my new car around about 90 degrees and I feared the worst but the only real damage to my car was a scratched up front bumper that was now just slightly out of alignment. I made the clown pay the dealer to replace the bumper and the mounting brackets. He had no insurance and I didn't want my insurance rates to go up because I had a claim that wasn't my fault.

Very realistic looking. great paint and I like the heat discoloration on the exhaust.

Beautiful looking '40. Great paint work and the chassis and engine switch really makes this model standout. A funny thing about your colors, which I really like. I Have this same model built in the '70's and the color combination is just a couple of shades off from yours. The paint jobs of the time were often done in this manor as the style of the day. Mine never looked this good however.

Learn something new every day. The conversion on the rear section of the body is the most interesting to me. Rob Hall's picture sows just how much the rear would have been altered. I also would have left the stock front end just because it would look more like the more valuable car.

I see what your saying about the windshield. SFHESS also pointed out the possibility of a fiberglass body as well as the hood.

I don't recall the exact year that Ford went with the black engine color. The main appearance difference in appearance on the big block Fords had to do with the valve cover and air filter colors.

Ya that sounds like the name of the VW. I remembered this morning the show was Bitchen Rides from last week. You may be correct about the fiberglass reproduction body, I don't think anybody in their right mind would do that to a real one. I know the '40 front end was once a popular thing on normal type 1's.

What direction are you thinking on this build ?