espo

Lookin good so far. What kind of finish are you going for on the wood ?

I have built both and still have at least one of each in my stash. The AMT kit was cutting edge at that time and featured opening doors, which with the interior door panel acting as the door jam made them a little thicker than they should have been in scale. The kit is a very nice representation of a '58 Impala and has just been reissued and is readly available. The Revell kit is not currently being issued but it can be still found in most hobby shops. The Revell kit I believe was Revell's first issue with the body side chrome and even the molding along the top of the rear quarter panels molded separately and on the chrome tree. They have several mounting pins on the back side which match holes in the recessed area on the side of the body. They are a very tight fit and you would want to scrape the chrome off the back side and the pins for a better fit and adhesion. The AMT kit offers additional engine options that are not in the Revell kit. Both kits use a 348 cu.in. engine with the 3x2's carburation set up as the standard engine. I personally would not discourage anyone from buy either kit as I have enjoyed them both. Not matter which one you build you will have a very nice model that is a very accurate '58 Impala.

Just got my February issue from the parallel modeling universe, they had an ad from NEWCENTURYHOBBIES.COM offering Goer decals. I guess I'm spoiled since the hobby shop I go to has them in stock . I have used their decals off and on for many years and I know you will like them.

Despite all the nay sayers on the Revell '48 Ford coupe this shows just how much better it is than the IMC kit.

Very nice clean build.

Looks just like on the box. Great looking build.

Your build looks very believable, nice build.

I'm sure his father is going to cherish this build. Very kind of you to help.

Wow. I can see so many uses including having spare parts to have for back up.

Great looking build. I like the truck conversion idea. I think I have seen this car in one of the old car magazines.

beautiful build. I was not sure about the dark Blue at first, but when finished it looks perfect.

Your build with your son looks like it's going great. From the side view picture it looks like the front wheels might have to go forward about 1 or 2 mm. If need be for narrowing the front track it looks like the Corvette front suspension/chassis components could be narrowed if need be.

Are you printing the cab and the bed both ? How thick is it compared to the original kit ? How about the frame ?

That looks fantastic.

I really like the red color. The extra detail painting on the top really makes it standout.

They have an expression in Kansas, "If you don't like the weather wait a day or two". Just since New Years we have had over night temps from at or below 0 with highs in the teens. The weather geeks on TV are saying that by Wednesday we'll have highs above 55 before we dive back into the deep freeze. One minute you're enjoying a glass of wine on the deck in the evening and the next you're throwing seed out the back door for the poor birds. Well we're just a few months away from complaining about the hot summer so there's that to look forward to.

While having nothing to do with models, but everything to do about Disabled Vets, there is an off road park here in Kansas that has a fund raiser every year for the Wounded Vets. The Kansas Rocks Off Road Park has a fund raiser in February called Frost Bite. The funds are used for a summer time event where Wounded Vets get to ride along with people with off road vehicles thru the park. My wife and I intend to participate this February and also the weekend of the ride along with our Jeep Wrangler. These men and women have represented our country with Valor thru out the world, so this is the very least we can do. If this is of interest to anyone I would suggest going to their web site Kansas Rocks. Com for any further information. I'm not affiliated with them in any way except that I pay to go off road there several times a year.

Floyd. Andy H. has pointed out some very good info on the Continental Kit. All of the ones I remember seeing the bottom edge of the tire was well below the rear bumper and stood more upright. Two reasons I can think of are the view to the rear for the driver wouldn't be obstructed and the tire could be tilted to the rear to access the trunk. The picture of the Quarter Panel seems just wrong to myself. I looked back at pictures of the two '57 Fords that I owned and the molding from above the rear wheel opening does in fact extend all the way to the bottom of the body. I think if you look at maybe restored 1:1 cars on line you'll see what I mean about this body feature. It does get very faint toward the bottom of the body feature but looking at my shelf model it is almost identical to the pictures of my old cars. The picture that Andy shared with you is a perfect prototype to work off of.

I was thinking they might be the rear wheel option on the old AMT '49 Ford. They had an optional deep set rear wheels and slicks. I just don't think they ever issued the get in green though. Could those wheels have been painted ?

I did the convertible conversion several years ago. I was replicating a '57 Ford convertible I had owned years ago. These are really good kits especially considering the age of the kit. Are you going to use the custom interior or stay close to stock?

The thing with banks and lenders of any type, you're just a number and the personal banker thing has been gone for years.

I don't have their E-Mail address but you could google them. Just put in Gofer Racing Decals. I'm sure something will turn up.

Thank you for looking. I'm glad you enjoyed them.

Great looking builds. The exotics look nice but I really like the muscle cars best.

That top looks really nice. I think it looks like someone could even drive this if they were 1/25 our size. A thought on the engine mount. You might create an engine mount that drops down from the frame then curves to meet the side of the engine in the normal manor. Or if you want to use a mount like many race cars use, an engine plate that mount to the front of the engine and to the chassis. This way you could set the front of the engine at a height that would keep it level and the drive shaft would clear your floor boards. One problem you may run into is that now that the frame is Z'd the oil pan may be on the ground. Of course if you have an old NASCAR engine laying around you could always go with a dry sump oiling system. The old rule of thumb was that no part of the chassis or drive line could hang any lower than the outer edge of your wheel rims. The reasoning was that if you got a flat then nothing from under the car would strike the ground. The other alternative on the drive line is to run it level thru the cab and just make a very tall drive tunnel thru the interior, and that may be the easy way to do it.