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There was a time when I would have two or three builds going at once and it seamed like very little ever got completed. Now I stay with a build all the way thru and that seems to work better for me. I did have a '57 Chevy Step Side that would not cooperate and it went back into the box twice over a two year period. With some help and suggestions from others here I was able to get the "Glass" to fit and I was able to put it in this years Class of '16.

The independent suspension was the other method that I was going to mention. The problem I also ran into was when I changed the front cross member to allow the leaf spring mount to sit higher up into the frame. When this was done on the 1:1 Fords the front radius arms would be "split" and they would then be remounted on the side of the frame instead of the center. Otherwise with the lower front mounting point the radius arms would rest on the frame and not allow any suspension movement. Glade to see you solved your suspension problems and the independent suspension would ride and handle much better in the 1:1 prototype.

Now that looks interesting !!

I did a Rex White livery on the AMT '62 Bel Air kit when it first came out. It was never released as a NASCAR but it does have an Air Box air cleaner that ducts to the firewall just like they used to do. These are parts in the kit for the Z11 Drag cars but they can just as easily be used for what you're doing. I used to get all of the NASCAR decals from either JNJ Hobbies or Slixx. I still have decal sets for the Holly Farms Poultry #3 car for Junior Johnson and the #4 Rex White driven Jim McMann car. This kit has been reissued many times usually as a Drag Racer with a raised front suspension , but you're going to change all that anyway.

I remember following some of these builds. They all look great, and I like how you can look at the background to see what time of year you took your pictures.

This is a very good kit for a Hot Rod. I built one a couple of years ago and I might be able to offer some of the things I did on the suspension and engine. You mentioned that you lowered the front and that the front axle now hits the frame. There are several ways to lower this truck. If you are staying with the kits front I Beam what I did was to modify it to make a "Dropped Axle". Using the kit part I cut the axel just outside of the mounting point for the front radius arms and created a section of new material that I would then attach the spindles to in a raised position. This way the center section of the axel remains in the normal position and you have created a Drop Axle. This is how most where lowered in days of old. This also gives you more Oil Pan clearance for a late model engine. The oil pan may still not clear. You could either cut and alter the oil pan or do as I have and cheat and use the Flat Head oil pan. The fire wall will need some more work to clear the newer engine. The foot wells may have to be cut and reshaped. For motor mounts you can use some round or angle shaped plastic. Great job on fixing the front fenders.

I experienced the same problem on my first woody build. I think that #1. The decals just don't stick all that well. #2 Regular masking tape if left on the body to long will invariably lift paint or decals. This is what has happened time and again for myself. The best results for myself has been to remask an area rather than leaving an area covered for an extended period of time. #3 I now use nothing but Tamiya masking tape. I have actually gone so far as to cover the area where the wood trim will be and paint the body first. Then mask the painted body and then do the wood treatment. It seems backwards but it has worked with no problems for me. Just an idea for next time.

You might list on the forum in the Wanted section and see what's out there. It may be easier to find a Revell '59 Chevy hood, but I'm sure it would need a little modification to fit. I like the camper, and I don't remember it being in the issues I have. The Canoe and Boat, where they something you created or are they part of another kit ?

It might help to play some old Beach Boys music when your building. "Bonzi Pipeline" especially.

I think what I was trying to say is not so much lettering detail but for the window and body trim. The small line from the blade creates a barrier so that the paint does not flow out onto the painted body.

Very cool. Reminds me of some of the guys I used to ride the bus with long ago.

Very nice clean build. I like the flip front end, somewhat like a Corvette.

This should be fun to watch.

Frogs Leap happens to be one of our favorite wineries. On the label on the back of the bottle with all the required warnings required by every governing body you can think of, the story goes that during the original labeling application the owners were so frustrated if them they put on their label "Open other end". Next time you see one of their bottles check out the label, and if you like a KILLER Zinfandel than buy it and find out for your self.

If you are not already doing this, use a sharp #11 blade to outline what ever you are painting. This leaves an almost invisible dividing line to follow with your paint brush. You can even flow a little paint on the molding and it leaves a very distinct line between the molding and the body.

Great looking conversion , and the camper is perfect. Remember to look out for low bridges as you're heading out of town, or you might loose the canoe.

Great looking body, who supplied that as a post car ?

Great looking roll cage. Outstanding chassis details.

I like the suspension work and roll cages.

Looks great. I always would get nervous when I would see one of these cars in my rearview mirror.

I like how the patina painting turned out. I would resist painting it with a gloss clear. This is presently a popular build style now with 1:1 builders, but the builders tend to cover everything with an unnatural looking gloss clear coat. If a car body is actually oxidized it is going to be a very flat surface. I would go for maybe a semi-clear coat followed by a flat clear sprayed from an arms length away. This would give the finish some highlights and leave a little bit of texture to the actual finish. Glad to hear that the big tires cleared the rear fenders. I intend to build this same model soon and I have a hard time building anything with skinny tires.

Glad to see this is back on the work bench.

If you're not limited to a particular scale, Round 2 has reissued a 1/25th motor cycle kit listed as an AMT kit.

Great information source, thank you.

Great looking build, excellent detail on the trim.