Fat Brian

The Revell Cobra kit is the only game in town for that generation of Mustang. You might be able to find the regular GT engine in the Revell 97-98 convertible kit. The 99 SVT kit was just put out at Ollie's so the market should be flooded with them soon.

Get some Mr Super Clear Gloss. It seems almost impervious to humidity and dries with a rock hard gloss.

I used to worry about the wheels rolling but as others said, once I started using a lot of aftermarket wheels it's just not worth the effort. These days I don't actively stop the wheels from rolling their going to but I also don't put any work into making them roll and will solid mount them without a second thought. The only reason I even slightly care if the wheels turn is that some hollow tires flat spot and the sidewall deforms if you can't redistribute the weight every once in a while.

I'm not Steve but the working theory is that the mirrory finish from molotow looks like a reaction between two chemicals that repel each other. It's like the shiny floats to the surface after it comes off the tip of the pen. We believe that one of those chemicals evaporates out of the pen after a while leaving the ink a dull silver color. This doesn't happen to the refill bottles, I've had mine for three or four years and it looks as good as the first time I used it. The stacks, valve cover, and header on this were all brush painted from that refill bottle recently.

I got the cab in the mail today. I hope your address is the same, forgot to ask.

It's so weird because it's literally the same mold, the only difference is the plastic and how it was treated during the manufacturing process.

For some reason a lot of AMT semi kits from that time are built without decals. This kit, the red 359 and 359 wrecker, the Transtar II, and Diamond Reo all don't have decals on the box art build.

Yep, that's what's in mine.

That's actually a totally different kit, it's amazing to me we ended up with at least four kits of this era Datsun pickup. Your kit is an old Revell kit. The kit from the video is from MPC and shares its body with the Scavenger monster truck. Then there's the stock version from MPC that was out a few years ago.

No problem, like I said, it's got a bit of a twist in it and I got a replacement when they reissued these kits so I'm more than happy to donate it to the cause. I'm going to go ahead and post these measurements so they're here, if you need anything else let me know since the truck I have access to doesn't seem to be going anywhere. The grille for the Revell kit is the right size, it just needs the sharper upper corners added and faceted surround instead of round. Here's a thing to watch out for when looking for reference pics. I've seen three different front lower corners for the cabs, two of which won't work for the kit without moving the front axle back. I wanted to point it out to avoid confusion. This is the one that will work with the kit as is. This is the most common of the two corners for the longer spring, slightly set back front axle. Notice the wider separation between the rubber trim and body line as it gets closer to the headlight. This is the other, less common lower corner. This time the trim is the same as above but the body line is different.

Lord I hope not. It's time for new kits of these subjects.

I understand, I would prefer it be correct as well.

I have a Revell cab I'm sending you, I'll get in the mail first of the week. I'm also going to post some measurements I took of an E model that might help out.

Typical solvent glues that work for plastic don't work for 3d printed or resin parts. The need super glue or epoxy.

See is there's enough meat in the sides to thin them down a bit. Even if it won't fit in the notch the 29 firewall does you could remove about 1mm from the back of the 31 firewall and just flush mount it to the front of the body.

They should need cleaned unless they feel sticky, I've gotten a few things from ebay that were. That's uncured resin and comes off with isopropyl alcohol.

I totally respect that. I actually have a Revell cab I'd contribute to the cause, it's got a bit of a stubborn twist to it but should be perfect for getting measurements. As for just the front versus the entire cab I'm not sure. Just front would be cheaper but I don't know if would work for both kits. Hakan might have more input, I don't know if the doors are different or anything else further back.

I was asking Scott to make the grille as well, I might not have been clear enough. I see the difference in the windshield but it doesn't bother me enough to fix it considering what a massive pain it would be. Personally, I've been collecting parts for this build for a long time and have square horns and the modern lights but having them would definitely benefit others if this project gets taken up.

Yeah, I don't really like the late E with the setback front axle, I want an early one. 1984 seems to be the overlap year with some E changes appearing as early as late 83 but being in full production by 85.

Still, doing those few pieces would get us far closer than we are now. If the grille and headlight area was done you could make the cab whatever length you want it. I would rather it be 95% accurate and on my shelf that waiting on 100% and never getting finished.

Since we're talking K100 stuff, how about a full update to the square headlight front end? There are only a few pieces that need to be made and honestly the dual square headlight bezels would be good on their own too. I have measurements for the bezels and might can get some of the K100 headlight area if the one I know of is still there. Here's a picture of the instructions from the Revell kit. By replacing parts 155 & 156 with their square headlight replacements and bezels and the grille and adding the dash you've already made that would get about everything needed.

If your has been sitting for a while a simple hand shaking might not be enough to really get the pigments back. I use a toothpick to get down to the bottom of the jar and really stirr it up, they also make a few different varieties of mechanical paint mixers. If it's still too thin after a good mixing you might need to let it settle again and and then remove some of the clear paint base with a pipette or absorb it with the corner of a paper towel.

Who owns the Testors molds is a good question. The 37/38 custom panel that was recently out as a Lindberg kit is a modification of the Boyd Smoothster kit that Testors did in the 90s. It seems like Round2 at least has some of the 90s Testors tooling that can't be tracked back to Fujimi or Italeri but exactly what isn't clear.

All of these shelves are on casters so I can pull one out and rotate it around to find what I'm after. I just finished my big desk today that sits in the right-most corner of the room and I'm going tovadd one more shelf to give myself a bit more room for expansion.

The YouTube channel Legal Eagle just did a pretty comprehensive video explaining the recent ruling over the Eleanor copyright lawsuit.