Miatatom

I'm in!

I question using a drill press. It'll melt the plastic. Drill them out with a pin vise.

Ok Scott, here's my method. I bought a cheap electric toothbrush and several refill brushes. You have to remove the bristles from the heads. I used hemostats to grab each bundle of bristles and pull them out. I used .030 plastic stock to create small circles and stamped them out using a punch. I them glued them to the heads to create a flat surface. Next, I cut different lengths of plastic tubing and glued them to the heads. Cut another piece for the end and glued it on. Then I use padded double sided tape to stick different grit paper on the tips. Here are some pics. Makes sanding pin marks in a headliner a breeze. I use a brush with short bristles to remove paint in tight areas.

I have this very task ahead of me, probably before the end of the year. I'm already packing everything up. I'm looking forward to a new hobby room, somewhere. ?

1956.

Since posting my comments on Createx clear, I've corresponded with Createx. According to them, their clear doesn't gloss up like Tamiya or Model Master. I've got a bottle of their clear but haven't used it yet. I'll probably stick with Tamiya and Model Master.

+1 on those decals. You're a lot better builder than I am.

I'm thinking that's the issue. I've heard Wicked can't be wet sanded. Might have assumed that included all forms of sanding. I'll have to try it soon.

I don't think you're going to be successful. From what I've learned about Createx paints, you can't sand them Put clear over them and sand and polish away. Just not on the color coats. I hope someone will prove me wrong. I like the paints.

Nothing lasts forever but this bites. https://autoweek.com/article/sports-cars/ford-confirms-end-factory-gt-program-after-2019

Great job! I've got The Prisoner on dvd. Loved that show.

MUSIC! I've got video from the 93 Can Am Reunion at Road Atlanta. We were videoing in the dip of the old configuration and on the tape, you could hear a McLaren coming out of 7. When he hit the crest and blew into the dip, the hair on all of us was standing straight up. My 14 year old son's mouth literally fell open. He was blown away. Well, we all were. I was racing my Formula V for the first time.

Johnathon, why do you think you'd prefer the .3 over the .5. I have the .5 myself.

I wouldn't recommend using it.

Depends on which Tamiya color and type you want. There are a lot of vendors that carry them. I don't use their acrylics.

I've tried the stuff and only use it on chassis and some interiors. Never got it to work for me on a body.

Got in saved in My List.

Then there's the summer in Vegas. But it's a dry heat! Hit the lottery and buy a place in both locations.

What was the source for the funnel on the back of the booth?

I like this place. http://www.hobbylinc.com/tamiya-hobby-and-model-paint

It's going to be 70 here on Sunday. It's been a mild winter here in southeast Tennessee. The forecasters totally missed the winter forecast.

That's what I use.

The 240 cfm may be a little too much for a small enclosure like yours. My booth is probably twice that size and I use a 170 cfm.

Or, there's this. https://www.harborfreight.com/magnifier-head-strap-with-lights-38896.html

The kitchen floor looks great! As others have said, I use it for clear parts and add it to craft acrylics to spray chassis parts. Tried it once on a body. Not impressed. There's other stuff that works way better.