Ferrari 330 GTC + 575 M Superamerica Resto-rod

[89AKurt]

Another week zoomed by!  I was not exactly looking forward to fixing the body.  Drew a line between the top of the wheel arches, and attacked with the Dremel (loving the bit I got for this project).  Used the caliper that my dad had, to feel the thickness, it was easy to see at each end, then when it wouldn't move, marked and ground some more.  Used the light to see how even it was too.

I ran hot water over that area until the resin softened, then bent it.  Took a few tries to get it right, and it's just a tad narrower than the chassis so it will fit tight.  Also flared the fender lips a bit.
I had to shorten the chassis, marked parallel lines about 3 MM apart, cut between with the hot-wire, sanded to the lines but not into them.  Glued tabs on one side first.

With all the tweaking, broke the rear off. 😣  So I worked on cutting off the outside of the fender tubs, again with the hot-wire.  I can't glue this on now, have to glue the transaxle in first.

Much happier with the marriage, huge relief!

Now we're cooking with gas!

Next major step, fit the interior and wheel tubs together.  I better keep the resin in the windows still, which will make it more difficult, but better than breaking a pillar.

[89AKurt]

Bad enough when kit bashing, but the quality of this resin kit has something to be desired, increasing the amount of work.  Started on the interior, which is only four pieces that sort of fit together.   I worked on just the dash fitting below the windshield.  Then mating the rear of the tub, with the Revell wheel wells.  Then mating with the tunnel, and the transaxle fitting inside the tunnel.   Tacky glued the interior together, then to the chassis.  Cooked out tonight, weather has been beautiful, but snow is forecast.

Tonight discovered it's not fitting.   Looks like the interior stem to stern is about 4 MM longer than the greenhouse.  I may just have to cut out the front and back window openings, and just be careful.  Or perhaps I should work on getting the outside of the body "repaired" as in filling bubbles and scratches on the roof.

[cobraman]

I feel your pain, believe you me !

[89AKurt]

Steering wheel rim, thought I would skip ahead to something else that could be really annoying to fabricate. 🤨  Using cigar mahogany, picked one that has less open grain, and has an area that ought to look great when done.  Laminating 3 layers, crossing the grain 90º to each layer.  Made a jig using Corian, tapped shallow threads for the bolt without a head, applied JB Weld when threaded in, and a nut for good measure.  Used the drill press like a lathe, turned down using a chisel, to size measuring with the calipers.  Using drafting sketch paper on each side of the laminated piece when it's clamped, to prevent getting glued to the Corian blocks.  I have tried the first one, but did a major screw up, so not posting a picture.  🤬

Yes I'm insane. 🤪

[Russell C]

2 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

...Made a jig using Corian, ... Yes I'm insane. 

Pretty much everybody who uses rocks to carve model car parts would have to be. 😂

[Bugatti Fan]

That's what I like to see. Lots of engineers tools being used as well as normal modelling tools.

[89AKurt]

On 2/22/2022 at 8:51 PM, Russell C said:

Pretty much everybody who uses rocks to carve model car parts would have to be. 😂

I haven't tried Marble yet. 🤔

On 2/23/2022 at 1:04 AM, Bugatti Fan said:

That's what I like to see. Lots of engineers tools being used as well as normal modelling tools.

I'm buying more tools than models now.

Here is attempt 2.  Just a little too small diameter.

Used a different bit for the inside cut.

Checking the outside diameter.

Broke this when taking it off.  Glued up another part.

Made In China.

This is how I clamp the jig to the wood.  There is a paper layer between the wood and jig.

Been working on the interior fit into the body, got it dailed in, temporarily glued with Tackey glue.  Found a steering column from a Modena.

Cutting off the wood.  One trick I Iearned was to leave some paper sticking out when grinding off the outside diameter, makes it easier to get the knife in the correct spot.

For once I got a perfect fit.

Just in case, I'm making another rim.  I have lots of Mahogany wood to make a few, it was high grading the knots that is important, to avoid open grain that would weaken the part.

Back to the chassis.  Front fenders are the next thing to fit.  Cut apart the air filters from the intake.  Cleaned up the exhaust pipes, which will be sliced and diced.  Adjusting pretty much every part from now on, the radiator position, steering rack needs to be shortened, engine bay perimeter shroud needs to be cut along with the wheel wells.

[Bugatti Fan]

This is coming along well Kurt. 

Having done some scratch builds and conversions myself, I have lost count of the number of things I got wrong and either had to remake of modify them. Par for the course as we both know!

[Dann Tier]

Looking BRILLIANT!!!

[Bainford]

Very cool project, Kurt. Just found this thread. Sure is a lot of work, but coming along great. That resin body sure looks like a chore to work with. You have it sitting nicely on the chassis. Impressive stuff.

[Rich Chernosky]

Good progress Kurt,  Am enjoying this a lot. I have done some insane things in  the name of model making so I can relate.   Didja ever get your counter top fixed  <G>

[cobraman]

Nice work, your wheel looks great !

[89AKurt]

On 2/28/2022 at 1:01 AM, Bugatti Fan said:

This is coming along well Kurt. 

Having done some scratch builds and conversions myself, I have lost count of the number of things I got wrong and either had to remake of modify them. Par for the course as we both know!

Thank you.  Yes, trial and error.

15 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

Looking BRILLIANT!!!

Thanks man!

11 hours ago, Bainford said:

Very cool project, Kurt. Just found this thread. Sure is a lot of work, but coming along great. That resin body sure looks like a chore to work with. You have it sitting nicely on the chassis. Impressive stuff.

Glad you could stop by.  Yes every resin part is, a step at a time.

10 hours ago, Rich Chernosky said:

Good progress Kurt,  Am enjoying this a lot. I have done some insane things in  the name of model making so I can relate.   Didja ever get your counter top fixed  <G>

Thanks!  I got many scrap pieces, so no worries.  In fact, have used Corian to fix cooking utensil handles.

8 hours ago, cobraman said:

Nice work, your wheel looks great !

Thank you.  I got a good second half done, and Deft varnished.

[89AKurt]

This has been sitting in the box a little more than a year.  Thought I would try to finish before the GSL show, 8 days to work on it, slim chance but why not try?

First thing to do was reorient myself to wonder why I was doing this crazy project.  I was having a problem with the chassis being cut up, and breaking apart at tenuous connections.  Added brass wire, continuous front to back, guesstimated elevation front and back, so the middle is really glued on.  I did have to adjust after first gluing.

Went to the beauty supply shop, to get sanding sticks and paint.  I was surprised how sparse their nail 'polish' stock was, but found a color close to the one I got a ride in when I was a teen.

I didn't want to ruin the hood from the donor kit, just I case I wanted to build a Pro Stock Ferrari or something.  So I vacuum-formed a new one.  First try was okay, second was a disaster, third was good enough.

Glued the two together, after cutting the center of the inner panel out.  Glued steel below the windshield to help strengthen the cowl, and plastic sheet at the front for a jamb.

Other than the modern wheels, this will be the only indication something is different.  There will be an air dam, but it will be flat black.

 

 

[89AKurt]

Something that I do when wrecking two kits together, use screws to assemble major assemblies.  Had the interior glued onto the body with Tacky glue, now it was time to make the tabs so it would always go back into the same position.  Nothing I hate more is having problems of fitting after painting.  Pieces from the Studejimmy project were used, lots of superglue and baking soda used.

The chassis just wasn't mating to the body and staying in place, added 2 screws in the middle.

Bumpers had no locating tabs, used shirt pins, one per bumper should be good enough.  Opened up the windows but left material at the greenhouse pillars, afraid of breaking them.

Taillights are cast in clear resin, there are reflector lenses cast in red which I'm not using, pet peeve is having to paint taillights.  Again no location, other than the giant reflector holes which I filled with superglue/baking soda.  Went off photos, carved a recess using chisel tools, which I recently got, sure helps to have quality tools.  Had to shape the back of the lenses to even thickness, that was fun, and yes they are in place.

Headlights are from the Subaru Impreza project, last of the rally lights.  I should round the edge of the headlight rings, but I kind of like the updated look that's very subtle.  I refined the profile of the fenders to drop down, they were like a '57 T-bird.

Worked on the exhaust, which won't really be seen if the aero pans stay in place.  Next body parts to glue on are the fender vents.  I better work on the classic grill, it's photo-etch parts, but no surround.  Then I can start painting the body.

I have a bunch of work to do in the engine bay.  The 575 has lots of details, that I plan to cut apart.  Need to build the sides and firewall.  The radiator fit without much modification, but the air cleaners are another story.

[beeRS]

Don’t know how I missed this one last year. I love the engineering in this build. This is going to be something special. I’m watching from here on. 👍🏼

[Mr. Metallic]

Wow, glad you're resuscitating this project because i missed it a year ago. you're showing a lot of dedication to improving something so rough to start with. But you appear to be whipping it into shape.

[Kenmojr]

Looks like you're on your way to building a very cool ride...

[89AKurt]

20 hours ago, beeRS said:

Don’t know how I missed this one last year. I love the engineering in this build. This is going to be something special. I’m watching from here on. 👍🏼

Thank you for checking in!  I dropped the ball on this build, and then was not doing anything on the forum, so it just got buried.

13 hours ago, Mr. Metallic said:

Wow, glad you're resuscitating this project because i missed it a year ago. you're showing a lot of dedication to improving something so rough to start with. But you appear to be whipping it into shape.

Thank you.  It would be done if I didn't *have to* put the chassis under it.

11 hours ago, Kenmojr said:

Looks like you're on your way to building a very cool ride...

Thank you!  Fingers crossed.

Late last night I got the fender vents in, that took an hour.

Last night I couldn't handle that the body was still warped, the interior really showed it.  Thought I fixed it last year, but it must have moved back. 

First ting done today, was run hot water over the body.  This time I made the plywood buck.

Checked both sides with the square.  Something I did since I was at the sink, was to wet-sand the body, some areas really needed it.  Forgot to say earlier that I scribed the panels lines with the Tamiya scriber.

Added more screws, one at the back, 2 in front.  Can't allow any sloppy fit, since the following parts need to not interfere.

Have the stance established.  But my OCD isn't liking the fender edges.  I had worked flares under hot water last year, but have already broken the resin in a couple spots.

Drew concentric circles with a circle template on 0.04" styrene, cut out with the hot-wire.  Sanded the resin flares flush, and the disk edge.  Happened that it's half a circle.

Roughed the shape with the Dremel.

First pass with a big grit sanding stick.  Took advantage of the sun shining in, it shows the profile and process so much better than lights.

Next up were the aero belly pans.  The rear needed an extension, very easy.  The front has an spoiler added, with 0.04" styrene.  This is deeper than planned, I've been making pieces bigger, because cutting/sanding down to shape is better than adding to fix a mistake.

Final size, that matches the profile of the pan.  The original car part for comparison, which is an awkward design.  Since the track was narrowed, need to cut into the pan so the steering wheels have clearance.

Engine bay, this is going to be tough!

[CabDriver]

I love seeing your work Kurt - your steering wheel particularly caught my eye!  Nice job, keep going!!!

[89AKurt]

4 hours ago, CabDriver said:

I love seeing your work Kurt - your steering wheel particularly caught my eye!  Nice job, keep going!!!

Thank you!

Last night, first time I put the seats into the cockpit, oh great, they need to be narrowed.  I'm planning to add piping.

Had a model club meeting this morning, so lost a few hours.  First paint, Splash paints surfacer.

This is when I saw there are a bunch in bubbles in some areas, which is the purpose of this first coat.  I guess all the sanding cut down into the bubbles.  Have a bunch of fine tuning to do.  Maybe I shouldn't zoom in. 😣

Started on painting parts.  Splash paints aluminum.  Later I sprayed Model Master aluminum.

Double checked photos of the 575M Superamerica, which has the top of the engine red, but on the 'lower level' 575M the valve covers are red.  The instructions show wrong colors on some parts too.  I just wanted to make sure these parts cure awhile before handling later.

Engine bay, the firewall in 0.1" sheet styrene, other parts were offcuts.  Made a simple brake master cylinder reservoir.  Hacked up parts and put in position. Because this kit goes together funny, I had to make a sub assembly.   It's also being a little ___🤬___ with not going together, only when I squeeze does it look right, I can't figure out what needs adjustment.

Tomorrow I need to make door handles and door mirror, then I can paint the bumpers, headlights and gas cap chrome.  Interior, need a steering column, paddle shifters (with the classic Nardi steering wheel should be incongruous) and auto shifter (which means not using the cool classic gated shifter), pedals will be the 575M, should research the parking brake.  Filling the gaps in back are going to be a trick.  I'll be lucky to get the body done to the point of primer.

[mrm]

Nice to see this one return to active status. Always a pleasure watching your work. 

[Gramps46]

I had missed this one earlier so glad it is back.  Have learned a several things watching your techniques which I appreciate. 

[89AKurt]

14 hours ago, mrm said:

Nice to see this one return to active status. Always a pleasure watching your work. 

Thank you for the nice comment!

13 hours ago, Gramps46 said:

I had missed this one earlier so glad it is back.  Have learned a several things watching your techniques which I appreciate. 

Thank you too, glad my contribution is helping others.

I was in beast mode today, other than eating and the other usual life things, all I did was work on this project, almost seeing double vision tonight (12:20AM).  Dry-sanded the first coat.  Removed the last of the window flashing, need to be very careful now!

Then wet-sanded.

Sprayed Splash paints 2K primer.  Second time I have used it, and it still felt like WHAT HAVE I DONE because it goes on so ugly and rough, like it's the worst paint I could use.  But it cures hard quickly, and sands really nice.  Fresh, set in the cab of the pickup after taking pictures on the hood.

Now it's work on the chassis.  Think I found where it was binding, so felt like I could refine some areas.  It's hard to tell, but there a many scrap pieces that are glued here and there to fill gaps, and create location "pins".  Shortened the steering rack part, by about 8MM, because I had narrowed the track.  I skipped taking a picture of the parts laid out on a table to show what is kit and what is scratch-built, because some parts still aren't made, and that was at least an hour of limited time.

Model Master flat black, and Testors semi gloss black.  Since the assembly is weird, major sub assemblies could get an all around coverage.

So while the body and chassis were curing, on to the interior!  Since I used copper wire to secure the body to the paint stand, because it fell off during the first coat, I thought huh, instead of solder wire that looks good.  Ran it through steel wool to remove the tarnish and give the glue some roughness.  Sanded the corner of the seat with rough grit.  I enjoy doing this detail, would add it to any seat if it would look good.  There are holes in the bottle cap, screwed into the seat and also have a lock washer.

What a disaster area my bench is!  Noticed there was a sunset, I usually go for a walk if it looks like one will happen, but not tonight.

Stepped out back to take this.

The last thing I did before putting it away last year, was work on the steering wheel.  Made a paddle shifter unit, out of polished aluminum plate, punched out plastic disks, and real wood to go with the Nardi rim.  Turned an aluminum horn button, using various old sanding sticks, then steel wool, then emory cloth, and then polish.  Used the Dremel cut-off disk and a file, to work down the back about 90% of the way, then cut off with the Xacto blade.

Back to the body after eating last nights leftovers, wet-sanded the primer.  If I could avoid it, I would, but this paint does wet-sand nice.  Hood has not been done yet.  I have been using the shop air hose to dry off parts, instead of using a paper towel.  It has reduced lint, and static charge.

Just before the next coat.

Tamiya white primer.   Been slathering on each paint on a spoon, first to test compatibility, but also wanted to see what this color looked like.

To dream the impossible dream, still finding bubbles. 🤬  Here you can see the recess for the reflectors, and the B-pillar vent hole.

One more color before calling it a long but enjoyable day.

[NOBLNG]

Wow, that body is rough. You sure have your work cut out for you on this one Kurt. But…no one more qualified than you to bring it around I’m sure.😎