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Everything posted by Rider

  1. Never said it was. Regardless, it's still over $300 cnd for a hit and miss publication. I'll buy from a retailer when I see an issue on the shelf.
  2. Thanks Bruce, I am aware of the exchange rate on 150. Follow the link and look at the cost for non us subs, you'll see where the $300 comes from, I won't be investing that kind of money. . That $150 cost is for US subs, there is a different cost for subscriptions out side the US.
  3. WOW, the price for Canadians/foreign subscriptions with the exchange works out to $300, I'll be passing.
  4. This looks like a great project. The lines of that car are beautiful.
  5. Rider

    Hemi Cuda

    Looking sharp.
  6. Awesome work Dann. I have to say I"m really enjoying this build, nice looking fans.
  7. I wish you all the best with this new endeavour Gregg. I am considering this offer. My question is, what advantage does a subscription offer a subscriber in addition to a hard copy and an electronic copy, does the user aspect of this forum change? Thanks Curtis
  8. Looking real good Bucky. Did you figure out the paint issue? That sure was a lucky, would have been a real shame to ruin those decals if you sprayed the body first.
  9. I have always liked this kit too. This is really looking great, the paint rocks. Looking forward to seeing this one done.
  10. Beautiful build. Scale building is always about visual compromise and material availablility. I always find it interesting how something in proper scale can look sooo out of scale, either too big or too small. When doing the math for the suggested .007 thickness for 25th scale it comes out to .175", and .168 for 24th, which for simple comparison is in the area of 1/16". Curious to see what the real world seam thickness is I went out and measured the have two cars (Lincolns) I have from the 70's. One is a MkIV the other is a MkV, both have vinyl roofs. Measuring the thickness of the seams I found the '74 was .092" and the '79 was .070". Doing the math for 25th scale the thickness works out to ..0036 which although correct might look too thin. Just wanted to offer up some real world measurements. I hope I don't come off as having to be right, not my intention.
  11. Why not use an enamel clear? If you have an air brush I would use a true 2 part poly urethane. It's used in the auto paint world as a barrier on custom painting when using different types of paint. I use it all the time, (when I am building), I have never had an issue going over or under any paint. The car in my avatar has enamel, acrylic and lacquer, (nail polish) with a clear top coat of 2 (3) part poly, I also used as a barrier between those paints. I buy it from an auto paint supplier in small 1/4 pint tins.
  12. Great looking paint, top and wheels. The texture of the top is bang on.
  13. Great looking Datsun. The wheels suit it.
  14. Oh man that is rough, sorry to see this. If I can offer a potential solution, I would wet sand the clear and the spray Tamiya Lacquer over the current clear. It might take a few coat for it to level off, the Tamiya lacquer is great stuff for wet sanding and polishing. Or as another solution you could turn the build into a forgotten race car left to rot in a field. There are a number of option for you, but don't scrap it, you put a ton of time into this. Good luck Greg.
  15. That is cool looking build, love the design. Some really nice scratch building too.
  16. WOW, one of the nicest versions I have seen.
  17. Looks great! A light wash and they'll be awesome.
  18. Nice collection. Good luck with the build. Following
  19. This is looking great, I like the interior colours. Those kit rims are perfect candidates for bead locks. I just picked that kit up this week myself.
  20. Mr. Obsessive (Bill) recently addressed that exact concern about newer styrene crazing. His solution to this is he has been spraying a base coat of BINZ stain blocker, specifically their line that is schallac based. Bill also pointed out the spray can is too heavy and prefers to thin out and you the air brush.
  21. All good bro, it's hard to keep up sometimes with all the new re-issues going on. Ron, looks like you'd need a TJ kit as well. The actual Gladiator would be a jeep kit with some stretching and a box. I'd like to see you build that. The grey jeep is the concept.
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