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Revell 58 Corvette Roadster


70 Sting

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Hey All,

It's been 30+ plus years since I've built a model. I can't believe how much the hobby has changed or more accurately, how little I knew/know. Back then it was the model and a tube of Testors glue. Probably like many others, covid got me back into it as my wife thought it would be a good pastime for my son and I.

Five models in, I've made many, many mistakes and learned so much from reading this forum and watching YouTube. Each time I tried a new product or tool and practiced new techniques. The 58 Corvette is my best effort to date. For this one I tried using embossing powder for the carpet, modified the rear end to accommodate wider tires (I cannot take credit for this, I saw it done by a YouTuber) and tried airbrushing for the first time. After spraying countless spoons I painted the dash, seats and doors - they were supposed to be glossy but I think I was too much of a scaredy cat to lay it on heavy and wasn't close enough with the airbrush. I'm trying to work up the nerve to airbrush the body on my next model. I couldn't install the wipers because of fitting issues with the windshield-cabin-chassis. The dual exhaust pipes were also not installed and kudos to those who can install the lower rad hose.

What did I learn from this one? Hand painting decanted Tamiya metallic spay paint doesn't go on nearly as well as from the can. AK Metallizer paint doesn't cover well over a non black or white base. Prime all parts after sanding (mufflers). Don't rush any steps and make sure fingers are clean to avoid prints on paint. Clear parts continue to be the bane of my existence.

A special thanks to all those who generously share their time and knowledge.

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Very nice.  I love the blue color.  Don't be afraid to try some clear coat over the color on your next one. You can polish out a lot of imperfections (although this one has very few) without damaging the color coat.

Your photography is superb too!

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Gorgeous meticulous super-clean build Harry! Hard to believe this one is only your fifth effort, you obviously pick up skills and learn fast! I think the ability to research techniques and learn from each other over the web has made us all much better builders than we were as kids.

I love the engine detail you achieveed on this fuelie. I built the Revell ‘57 Chev black window a few years ago and the 283 FI engine compartment didn’t come anywhere near as nice as yours. Your metalixing on the mechanicals is A+. And that interior is so realistic and sweet!

I’ve been airbrushing cars/ planes/ ships for years but I still find “shiny” to be the most challenging and still use Tamiya Lacquer color and TS-13 Clear coat rattle cans for most of my car builds. 
Thanks for posting! Build & post more please!

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I think she is stunning! Very cleanly built! I really like the whole package. The color combo is so nice, the engine compartment looks good and the wheels and stance are spot on in my book. You really have done a super nice job on this one, bravo!

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After 30 years getting back into building models is just like riding a bike after 30 years I guess. Beautiful color and I agree you might want to try a couple coats of clear on your next build. Try it and you'll see why. I like how you detailed the engine and my Corvette build doesn't have a bottom hose either. A little chrome trim, something the '58 was known for, would really make this pop. You should be very proud of this build, I think it looks great. 

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I wouldn't sweat the un-shiny paint. Your paint is very even, no orange peel, no runs or drips, no thin spots. "Satin" paint is in style right now, even for metallics. Just say this is exactly the look you were going for and stick to that story! ;) Model on! B)

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Great job Harry. I'm on my sixth build since I came out of a 25 year or so leave of absence and I still have much to relearn as well as many new skills to learn, no such thing as a failure just a lesson to be learned. We are very fortunate to have a wealth of knowledge available to us through the internet.

Glossy with an airbrush is something I can't seem to figure out just yet either, it does seem that the closer you are spraying to the part the easier it is to achieve, at least for me. I have sprayed three model bodies with an airbrush so far ( one was a trike and one a mini bike so really only one full body) and it's not as scary as it seems. It is far more time consuming to acheive good coverage than it is to just blast it with a rattle can unless your using a large needle and nozzle. As for the clear parts I leave them in the plastic bag as far away from my actual workspace as possible until I'm absolutely ready for them to be installed and then rubber gloves and I have found that Canopy glue or GatorsGrip glue holds tightly and dries clear.

You sir have done a fantastic job on this model and should be proud of your efforts. Your engine bay detail is very appealing, the colors are great, all around a good job

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Thanks for all the positive comments.  :^)

Paints used were: Tamiya TS-54 Light Metallic Blue, Tamiya TS-45 Pearl White, Testors Gloss Light Blue

Steamboat: I tried using Krylon clear spray 2-models ago but something went horribly wrong. 90% of the car turned into a topographical map. I spent hours sanding it back down (to the plastic in some spots) and added it to the lessons learned list. The colour paint was also from a can and had been dry for days but somehow the two didn't play well together. I do want to try a super-glossy look on a car at some point, maybe with products from the same manufacturer.

TransAmMike: The body and chassis were painted with spray cans, interior with an airbrush, small parts by hand. There were 2 places in the cabin that required the same colour as the body, those I hand painted with decanted spray paint (didn't go on all that well). The camera was a Canon 7D with 50 and 100mm lenses. Car was photographed in my backyard under heavy clouds just before it rained. Kept the camera at a height that would mimic where a 'scale person' might be viewing the car.

espo: I have Bare Metal Foil on hand but it just wouldn't stick - even on bare sprue and after cleaning with isopropyl. I'm thinking the stuff was probably old? If I was more adventurous I could have tried masking and either hand painting or airbrushing the 4 chrome accents on the front and rear hood/trunk.

SickBoy: I tried Bondene (as per a YouTuber) but it let go after a short drop onto the cutting mat. Probably didn't use enough - for good reason. I tried it for the first time on build before this one - a Ford GT40. There I was, holding the windshield in place and dropping Bondene along the edges. It looked like it was working great until I let go and realized the capillary action ran the glue right under my thumb and left a fat, juicy print on the glass. Sanding, sanding, sanding, compound and polish and it was still foggy. Coated the glass with baby oil and left it. I have not heard of Canopy glue or GatorsGrip, but will look into it. Also been using Testors Clear Parts glue, however, glass is in my kitchen now.  :^(

 

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1 hour ago, 70 Sting said:

I have not heard of Canopy glue or GatorsGrip, but will look into it. Also been using Testors Clear Parts glue, 

They're all basically white glue like Elmer's. Try Tacky Glue, available at Walmart--very strong and a fraction of the cost of the "hobby" products. 

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