Muncie

Hemmings Classic Car magazine in the mail today - four page personality profile - photos of some of the cars, some history,

Picked up issue #3 at a local Hobbytown - don't know why they put their price sticker in the middle of the cover... Lots of interesting and informative articles - kind of geared for vintage and scratch building but a little of everything. Remember soldering brass chassis? It's like model cars but with different materials and techniques. What you get is useful to add more model car building skills to the toolbox.

This is a question that should get 20 answers if you ask ten people... I agree with the posts above that reference material is important - a close look will probably show that each part is different color, texture, shine, and gloss, I haven't tried them yet, but the local hobby shop had a Humbrol paint rack with about six or eight different shades of aluminum. Plenty to try, but not too expensive either. Looks like my next science project. The go to basic aluminum for me is Krylon dull aluminum - It is a good as-cast aluminum color and also works great as a good base coat under Testors Metal Master - dries fast and easy to use. Rattle can chrome paints from hobby, craft auto and hardware stores make a good polished aluminum. They take a bit of experimentation to find the color and shine you want/need because each brand is little different. More tips and ideas please -

yep, always rob the chuck off an old burned up power drill before you throw it away - there is usually a hole in the motor shaft behind the chuck - slide pin in the shaft and the chuck should unscrew - makes a good handle for larger drill bits - one of those stepped uni-bits works really well but spendy - the steps seem to be the right increment to enlarge a hole without doing damage.

wow! Learned to drive on the family '65 Belvedere wagon... A little different, slant six , three on the tree... but this one hits close to the soul. Good to see that Moebius did a great job. Thanks for the review

yep, that's it. thanks for including all of the story about how you got there - it's good reading - really explains how a small change in the dimensions can make a big difference

Have to agree with these tips - no power - all of the holes that I drill are done with pin vise - starting small and working up in small steps. I believe the hole in the window that you are making is a minimum 6" diameter opening for the safety crews to access the interior with a fire extinguisher. That's about 1/4" in scale. At that size, it is difficult to get a round hole in plastic with a drill bit. Best to get up close to size with a drill and finish with a round file. take it easy - not much pressure

Might be worth a trip to the next automotive swap meet and find a magazine seller that is looking for inventory... sell them all in one lot

same here, would love to see these kits return - either as kits or as the parts packs it would take to complete the cars

sorry Tom, posted here and I do have firsthand experience - as posted in the other thread - it sucks - just wanted people to know so they have the information before they send money. Keep in mind, Randy Frost at Perry's is the person that has created his reputation, not the people that have posted. agreed - always had first class service from Replicas and Modelhaus -several times and a long time customer. OK, I counted to ten and deleted the editorial comments...

Check out the 351 in the 1980's NASCAR kits- AMT for 1/25, Monogram for 1/24 - good detail, might be a place to start. the old NASCAR kits are still out there and reasonably priced parts sources.

might want to read this first... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/18693-perrys-resin/?page=1

Tom, thank you for the inspiration - I have a couple of tootsietoy cars that I have been "saving" from my much younger days - ahhh the memories... it would be way cooler and worth a lot more to paint them bright and new for the granddaughter

Tim, great looking model A - great choice of colors and very clean - Add my thanks to the list, it's good to see a straight out of the box build and review. Steve

there may be some dimensions here ---- http://protech.net/

just finished getting exhuast port centerline dimensions from the Sanderson headers on the nailhead in Joe's 1928 model A sport coupe - real Henry steel and GM iron. He pulled the 401 out of a stock 1965 Buick. Headers were on the work bench so real easy to measure port spacing with a Stanley tape. Ports one to two - 4-1/2", ports two to three - 8-1/4", ports one to four 17-1/4" Plastic Nailheads - with dial caliper and calibrated eyeball - please allow some tolerance in these measurements - measuring points aren't precise on the plastic parts. Revell Parts Pack/Ivo Showboat - one to two - 0.155 (3-7/8"), two to three - 0.3303 (8-1/4"), one to four 0.670" (16-3/4") Revell 1929 Model A headers- one to two - 0.165 (4-1/8"), two to three - 0.380 (9-1/2"), one to four - 0.710 (17-3/4") Revell 1929 Model A Buick cylinder heads - same as the headers

Add my thanks to Tim for the excellent review and photos. There are some unique features engineered into this kit that I haven't seen before. Revell added some material to the parts on the chrome trees so the sprue attaching points won't be visible when the model is built - It will take a bit of clever trimming, but there won't be any white spots showing or silver touch-ups required - way cool. An example is the air cleaners which have the sprue attached on the bottom, not the edge There are a lot of extra little disposable tabs molded on many of the parts with tiny details - overall, the detail is a lot finer and the tabs allow plastic to fill the molds so the detail is not lost. Revell has engineered carburetors that look like a real carb and not just a plastic blob. Revell has really upped the quality of the detail on this kit. I didn't find any sink marks to fill. Not an expert on injection molding but it looks like all of the ejection pins (or at least the ones I found) are on the sprue - not on the parts. The parts trees are set up in logical groups - it looks like modular packaging which is looking forward to future kits - looks like more are on the way Good fit on all of the parts that I've done test fits.

Thanks Steve I appreciate the information - have some projects with parts that need to be sent in... Steve

Steve, have you had chrome parts replated? recommendation? contact info? Thanks, Steve

can only speak to what has worked, or hasn't worked, when I tried it - Believe me I was surprised it is possible to shine up the old chrome and not take the chrome off the parts. Kind of best to go into it with the idea that the parts will have to be replated anyway. Liquid automotive cleaner wax - love it on some things because it has a very mild polish/abrasive - probably about the mildest abrasive available - it worked well on model master enamel which is very soft - but even with light pressure, it went through the chrome The Treatment model car wax - was expecting the same result - subject was the moon hubcaps on an old early issue AMT double Tee kit- had minor loss of shine but no scratches - they cleaned up like new with a couple of light passes - stopped when I got shine but before damaging the chrome. What you are polishing with can also be important - the abrasiveness of paper towels varies from brand to brand. Micro fiber towels are safe. I have photographer friend who swears by very well used (but clean) baby diapers for his camera lenses, but he would never use a new piece of cloth because the new fibers can scratch the lens. hope there is something here that helps...

wow - been fortunate - so many good times where it just couldn't get better.... Bonneville, sunrise, speed week... some have already filled in the story with just three words Waiting at the end of the pavement (which is five miles out on the salt) with the racers and spectators until they open the salt at 7AM. When that time comes, there are still five miles to go on the salt to the pits - some years it's single file and 20 MPH - other years, the salt is good and it's 65 MPH and cars/haulers spread out 400 feet wide. Been before and you know it's going to get better. At the pits, 35 degrees cool but you know it will be over 100 in the afternoon - the sun is starting to come up - biggest most colorful sunrise any place - can't be described and photos don't even get close - quiet and reverent with expectations for the day... then the quiet breaks with the perfect background sound as the sun rises when the first big V-8 fires for it's warm-up in the cool, quiet, sunrise morning light...

I agree with everyone in the last few posts... If someone really gets fussy, there are many other ways to tell a vintage AFB from a new one. have a pair of Carter Comp series AFB's on the shelf - bought them new in '74 and finally getting close to putting them on something.. but now I'm kind of afraid to use them because the ethanol content in the local gasoline won't play nice with that old aluminum. I can see why the Edelbrock carbs are so popular

looks like something based on the Accel Turbo-sonic kit with some pieces missing. Accel used a divided plenum box under the carb - the top part directed fuel /air from the carb to the turbo and the bottom part took turbocharged air/fuel into the manifold. Don't remember how it worked but the plenum divider would open and close to go from normally aspirated to turbocharged. They were around for a couple of years when aftermarket turbochrger kits were being figured out in the late 70's - haven't heard much about them since... might be a reason for that

True - and also true that the drawing was an original Foose design that he did for himself many years before the truck was built. gotta have the kit because it's a cool truck! - everything that I don't like about '56 Ford pickups and a lot of things that I didn't know about have been fixed on Chip Foose's truck.

this is going to be one of those ask 20 different model builders - get 30 different answers - good news is what you have looks restorable Remember trying toothpaste in my youth - turns out Mom always got the kind with heavy abrasive - just fogged up the plastic. Still use the same toothapste and wonder why I have any teeth - Now it would be a good start for finer polishes on a plastic windshield. I've had good luck with the Flex-i-file #3210 Triple-Grit polisher/finisher stick from the local hobby shop with a final polish using Mequiar's cleaner wax. It seems to work best for a very mild mid abrasive. Take it slow - I've cracked the glass with too much pressure on it.