
Funkychiken
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Everything posted by Funkychiken
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I think this is your best build yet, looks great, and the color really pops in the Sun. Excellent!
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It's a beaut, expertly finished as always!
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PORSCHE 907 K - Scratchbuilt from 908 LH body.
Funkychiken replied to PAULO FIOTE's topic in Model Cars
Excellent build! -
It's looking sharp so far.
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This is looking excellent! I'm sure you already do, but please take precautions, don't inhale the dust, it's dangerous! This build is going to be amazing!
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Thanks Dann, hope you are doing well and flexing your building skills
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I don't have an image of how bad it has come out - but far worse than the 1st side. This is an image of it during application - with the setting solution... I used warm water. Setting solution for under the decal & Softening solution for on top of the decal & used a hair dryer to make it more supple during drying....
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Thanks for the tip, but I couldn't find any. i went with "DACO PRODUCTS" Decal Setting solution STRONG. I then tried to get the other side done... and failed miserably! the 2nd side is worse, so I'm going to have to strip them. I might try and print my own decals, I always take a scan of decal sets prior to use (just in case) but this is the first time I've really messed up a set!
- 74 replies
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it's been lightly sanded, and will now get Cobalt blue Lacquer on top... I can already predict that it will also receive an unwanted layer of dust... but I'm not looking ofr perfection - just want to get a kit done this year!
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So this is where it's at now, the Alclad II Bright Silver Base has been applied. The spoon test received 2 light coats, and looks great with a black/silver look to it, but I couldn't replicate this on the body shell - it was too difficult to get it even. it ended us so patchy that eventually it has ended up just silver. I'm hoping it will still look good though.
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The body was sprayed with Zero Primer - a few coats and some very light sanding. I'm using a new bottle of zero grey primer, and have found that I need to thin it down by about 20 to 30%. Never happened to me before, but look on the bright side - it'll last longer! Then there were several light coats of Zero gloss black. it came out smooth to the touch, but looks textured!?
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The chassis in the instructions is difficult to understand - it looks like it is all in the body colour. The images on line do show that most of it probably is finished in the body colour. But I decided to do mine in a mixture of semi-gloss black & the body colour. Masked & ready to go!
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So I havn't posted in a while, as I was going to move house... it's still on the cards, but we are currently trying to re-finance & teh mortgage company is not easy to deal with! Anyhow, most of my stuff was packed a month ago, but with the delay, I sneaked some of it out & re-started this car... all thw components have been stripped from sprues & are in progress. I was debating on colour, and have decided to go woth Alclad II Cobalt Blue. the spoon test is half with black base & half without, the black base looks way better, so that's what I decided to do!
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Sweet finish on that paint, you're on the home straight now!
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sweet!!!!
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Excellent build!
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will be following along, this is a great kit! & a great car. looks great so far
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One other comment to add here is that you shoudl rub down the tamya tape well after application - especially around raised or lowered profiles and contours around the body. sometimes paint will seep under the masking tape edge if it's applied too heavy - and the tape has not been rubbed down well. just make sure that the base coat was cured well first - or it'll peel off when you remove the tape...
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Hi All, I have a Hasegawa Touring car kit, and it came with these tyre transfers. Does anyone have an idea about how they are applied? They are not decals - as can be seen in the image, they are reversed. They remind me of the "rub on" fake tattoos that we had when we were kids... so I tried to "rub" a section of it onto a surface, it did not come away at all (you can see the "A" in a circle on the bi that's been cut away had been rubbed). There is no mention of them in the instruction manual, and no references I could find on-line. thanks for the help!!!!
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Coming along nicely, I like the details!
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It's a beatiful kit, and your flocking and body paint look excellent!
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I have made a lot of progress - amongst packaing (to move house soon), a vacation (to Dubrovnik) and 2 business trips, one to Dearborn USA, and one to Istanbul in Turkey... been busy! The body was primed - several light coats of tamiya White primer over Zero grey primer Then the whole body was coated in a few coats of Zero White Then masked as shown & sprayed yellow. I used Camel Yellow from Zero, it came out a bit more orange than the images show, but it's close enough. Unfortunately, the Microsol was not able to make these after-market decals conform. I've got wrinkles & air pockets near raised moulding detail. Now, I'll admit I did apply them over the Zero Base coats - and not over a clear. How ever, I've done that before with no issue. I have used soooo much microsol, and sooo much hair drying - that I managed to warp the body (because I left the body in the spring-loaded tamiya paint stand, and it bowed out!) However, I plan to cut the bubbles and have another go at it with microsol Some of you may notice that I also messed up with the positioning of the transition from white to yellow. Now the racing number is half yellow & half whit - it should be all yellow, I think I'll make up for it by adding a decal over it that's yellow... Need some advise though - what do you reckon - paint the clear first then add te 2nd side's decal? or just try the same with the other side? Also - does anyone know of a stronger decal conforming product? thanks!
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Fantastic start!