vamach1

I remember building the Wrecker when I was a teenager. I wish I still had it - it was a neat kit and small enough to not take up a lot of room. It was when 1/43 seemed like a strange scale to most but later I would discover many kits from Europe in that scale.

Evilbay tracks how often a potential “buyer” bids on items with the same seller. I suppose if the same person bids over and over on different items with mostly a seller they “know” they will get flagged and possibly banned. I bid up to what I am comfortable paying and if shenanigans happen that’s life - no kit is worth paying 100X the original cost.

Maybe Revell got it right in 2003. Their 1/32 slot car shows the driver with a 5 pt harness and a lap belt in the other seat. ? On the high end Exoto 1/18 Daytona Coupe diecast there are no seat belts whatsoever. ?

Just for fun.

There would seem to be no reason for a seat belt but the rules required a passenger seat so it is possible. Looking at ones currently restored is probably not the best indication as some spent a few years as street legal drivers until enthusiasts realized that they would become worth millions in a few decades and added them. I’m sure a few people have enjoyed some parade lap passenger rides in them in the last 20 years at historic race car reunions. Here are some pictures from 1964 and 1965 where clearly you can see the driver wearing a shoulder harness.

I always trim the decal as close as possible to the edge so there isn’t any “clear” portion that can haze. As for small decals - I have used a tiny amount of white glue and then press a wet Q-tip onto the decal to press in into a recessed area like a center cap or gauge. Then once dry I add some Kristal Klear over it which dries clear and helps protect the decal.

Very nicely done. Congrats.

It took a lot of searching but I finally found a Sportsroof Mustang with an interior other than all black (in this case blue) to show the area of the rear deck shelf was black. My first Mach1 I doing in the 70’s had a black interior and did not have the fold down seat so I was not 100% positive that area would also be black regardless of the interior color. This picture is from an unrestored Mach1 without the fold down seats but it also has non-factory speaker grille cut into the rear seat side panels. Not sure if anyone else cares about these things but it may help somebody.

Green with envy. Very Nice. Testors has a similar color and it really stands out. Nice work.

The #1 car in the Shelby Collection museum was not open so it was not possible to get pictures of the inside. On the other hand the #8 car was “exposed” at the Simeone museum so you could see every detail. Hope these help.

No need to explain about the color. Very nicely done. If anyone wants to build something similar here are two for inspiration.

That’s much more effort and cost than the Wheeler dealers would put into a Mack One (misspelled on purpose).

Clearly Scale does nice castings.

Found this engine picture for the Foose Mack One.. Obviously it’s for the SEMA crowd and more of a resto-mod instead of combining an old Mustang with a completely modern interior, engine and chassis that would cost far more than it would ever be worth.

Saw this on a Mustang Facebook page. The wheels are a lot better and I like the wide body too.

Looks like a great start.

I could find room for that but I think my bank account would not agree. ?

I’ve seen Gramps “collection” and it is as impressive as it looks in the picture. I have roughly 100 built kits from anywhere from 1/87 to 1/16 scale and probably a couple hundred diecast cars of various scales (not counting the embarrassing number of 1/64 ones). As some of you may know ALL of the built models are either a Mustang, Pantera, Cobra or Ford GT/GT40 variants. The diecasts and built models are displayed together but are in bookcases and display cases so it’s hard to take pictures of them all. Gary has maximized the shelf space is those cabinets and keeping his collection to mainly 1/24 and 1/25 helps. I think twice about buying any more 1/18 diecast models as they are take up a lot of space. As for how many a year, I recently retired and was hoping to build more than I have been finishing over the last decade but I have been trying to organize years of accumulated stuff to spend less time looking for reference material and spend more building interesting subject matter and rare kits you do not see built very often.

What Roy said. Extremely well done. ?

Thanks. I have two of the Otaki kits but like many other kits there are still in the box awaiting motivation and the time to build them.

That would be interesting for sure but requires some major mold changes or just some new box art. It would actually be pretty easy to build the Foose version now with that Testors thing and some kit bashing. Without major changes to a new tooling I’m thinking more along the lines of a 73 Eleanor, 71 Boss 351, 72 and a Mach1 (preferably NOT molded in red) as doable with a minimum of changes IF the differences are though out ahead and factored into the first release. For example, including the 351 and 429 engines, different grilles and hoods and bumpers and that would cover most everything. The decals would be they key as they would be different for say the 007 Mach1 vs. a Boss 351 vs. Eleanor which could be “held back” in order to release the different versions. As I showed with the AMT/MPC 007 kit - more than half the parts are not even needed to build it but of course it’s still lacking a completely correct engine and molding it in red only benefited someone that does not paint a model which isn’t anyone on this board or 90% of model builders. Pictures of my car which I have owned eight years longer than I’ve been married. I bought it in 1981.

What repackage by Revell of a 71 Mustang are you talking about? Despite the Sunny/AMT Cobra reissue debacle, if there is a 71 Mustang from Revell I would hope it’s not the Palmer/Testors thing or another rehashed old AMT/MPC kit. All of the reissued and sometime slightly improved kits are just putting lipstick on a pig. If Round 2 could sell a bunch of the 007 kits I would surely hope an ALL NEW 71 Mustang kit would blow all previous versions out of the water and put the older kits to shame with an actual 429CJ with a C6 and a REAL Boss 351 engine with a Hurst four speed and not a Windsor wannabe.

The instruction sheets are the best bet if you can find them or search someone on Ebay that sold a kit that was opened and too pictures of all the parts, etc. Honestly there are more accurate kits (Polar Lights e.e.) representing a light weight body funny car from that era for a lot less cost. If you are looking for a stock Mach1 the AMT kits are very expensive and personally not worth collector prices. Knowing what you want to replicate would help in figuring what makes the most sense. The only vintage kits I’ve ever bought were $50 or less but I have found a lot of built ups that were very reasonable compared to a sealed 50 year old kit for $150 that was $2 back in the day. I forgot about the Bounty Hunter kit which is a funny car chassis and body. Prostock bodies were at least based on an actual production vehicle whereas by the 70’s the funny cars were lightweight bodies that looked like a stretched muscle car. Mixing a stock Mach1 body onto a funny car chassis just isn’t realistic if you ask me. The model companies did not car - it was a way to sell more kits as who would want to buy just a plain street legal Mach1 so why not mix them together to make something that did not exist like the Mach Won.