Snake45

The first release was the Yenko 427, molded in yellow. The second release was the Z/28 with RS option, molded in metallic blue. Just helping you in your quest for accuracy.

Very nice, considering what you started with. You're inspiring me to dig one of these out and Snake-slap it together. Well done and model on!

Absolutely magnificent. One of the best model cars of any kind I've ever seen. And no doubt the finest JoHan '68 4-4-2 that's ever been built by anyone, anywhere. You know what would look PERFECT sitting next to it on your shelf? A '69 Barracuda coupe.

Ditzler lists '64 Ford Guardsman Blue as "poly," which means metallic. Ford's dark blue for '65 was called Caspian Blue, also a poly. The paint codes for the two are different, which means they're not the same color. Hmmmmmmmm........

Would you feel better about it if I sold you the Monogram Cobra for $100?

That nameplate cries out for either PE or a decal.

Reminds me of the '70s, finding a gas station with a short line and enough gas to FILL your tank. Who else here remembers gas lines, even/odd days, 5 gallon limits, and all that?

The drawing is very pretty, but suggests that the driver and passenger seats and the front wheels/tires will be trying to occupy the same space at the same time. I seem to remember from school some law of physics that says that this is impossible.

Am I the only one who actually read the post? He said he was thinking of "just polishing" it, which I took it to mean that he wants to polish the plastic--no paint. Of course, I could be wrong. In which case...Never Mind.

I'm gonna try. "Plan C" would be to make a new windshield frame out of a "new" kit body. Gotta do some measuring. Oh, I didn't notice till last night that there's a big chunk missing from the lower driver's side of the windshield. I'll probably have to make a new windshield, one way or another.

Europa. When I was at university, someone had one. He could drive it under the barriers they'd swing across the secondary roads into the campus at night. Saw him do it a couple times.

The emblem could easily be foiled. The lettering underneath, I'd dry-brush with silver paint.

Funny. It works for me. I said that's to knock down the raised edge. Still needs to be polished after that.

OUTSTANDING cover of Foreigner's "Juke Box Hero:"

Are the fenders from the Revell '29 truck the same? If so, shouldn't be too hard to rustle up a set. Or how about the fenders from the AMT '29? There should be plenty of both in the spares boxes of the gang here.

Ah, so THAT's what it's supposed to look like! Drive on!

Some of it works, some seems not to sometimes. All I can tell you is try another brand. My "standard" is the Walmart generic 4-pack. Each tube seems to go bad long before it's empty, but it's so cheap that doesn't bother me. The Loctite stuff seems to last longer.

Every so often, when I'm at Walmart for the weekly grocery shopping, I grab another super glue or Loctite Super Glue Gel (ask for it by name) or J-B Weld or pack of Silver Sharpies, especially if I can't remember the last time I bought them. Can't be running out of The Essentials!

He had a good run. What condition his condition was in!

I'd go with #800 or #1000 wetordry sandpaper, wet, on a straight, flat small sanding block. And THEN polish.

Thanks! Last night, inspired by Tom, I pulled out that '67 Impala convertible you traded me and started trying to work with that windshield. That's gonna be some surgical-grade work to get that glass out of there without completely destroying the frame. And then I don't know if I have a suitable convertible boot. But I've already developed a Plan B: Maybe try to graft on the roof from a Monogram 1/24 '69 Camaro and make a Bel Air 2 door sedan out of it. What's here is just too good to waste!

Nice clean simple build. Well done and model on!

I'd reverse these. I tried it in this order a few years ago on a couple models and it didn't work out for me. In one case, the wet clearcoat made the painted details bleed and run. In the other, the clearcoat has yellowed over the years, turning all the window trim into gold, which was NOT what I was going for. (The paint is green so the yellowing doesn't really show on it, but oh that "chrome.") You also don't mention polishing. You'd want to do this before foil, too, and don't forget to polish the trim that will BE foiled. I've seen many models with fine finishes and foil where it looks like the foil was applied to a golf ball. The "foil under paint" trick is also very handy to know. Run a seach for it here--we've had a couple threads on the technique. (Or perhaps some helpful modeler will post a link.) I use rubbing alcohol to remove foil adhesive residue, but ONLY on enamel paint, as it will remove hobby lacquers and acrylics. I'm gonna have to experiment with Goo Gone and WD-40--they might work better.

Ain't it the truth! Now, watch me run out of some ABSOLUTELY VITAL paint or glue I need to drive on. Oh you KNOW it's gonna happen.....

This is absolutely beautiful, and I salute your work in bringing one back from the dead. You did a fabulous job with it and you know how much I love saving old junk. Extremely well done done and model on!